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Messages - Bryanj
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8086
« on: February 13, 2014, 07:58:00 AM »
Nobody anywhere i have found can supply the Neiman Keys for the lock like Mike has. Used to be a regular job back in the day to drill out and fit new
8087
« on: February 12, 2014, 08:40:29 AM »
If the drum lining is in good order why not lace a new rim on with new spokes from Dave Silver?
8088
« on: February 10, 2014, 08:29:13 AM »
The gap is the same as the cicumference is not much bigger for a 1mm overbore, also the oversize should be on the rings, usually at the gap on the top side on the opposite side of the gap to the manufacturers mark
8089
« on: February 10, 2014, 08:23:44 AM »
Its possible that with the 500 they only did a prototype engine for bench testing as it was thought of as a scaled down 750. Mine is the earliest number i have found but its going to be like Grandfathers brush as the insurance insist on a "New" frame and forks due to the fire and the crankcases did not come with it, but to my mind the identity is still there!!!
I do have a very early Japanese parts book that shows some interesting differences from the US/UK ones like fixed footrests instead of folding and a light in the steering stem nut.
Also gives part numbers for things that are not even in the early American Honda parts book I have---ike the side panel stickers that say :-
Honda Motor Co.,
Tokyo Japan
8090
« on: February 10, 2014, 08:06:15 AM »
Originaly it does go to the engine mounting bolt on the outside as you have it BUT you need to remove pwder coat from both sides I.I where it touches the engine case and where the earth lead connects. Somewhere I have a NOS mounting plate if i can find it i will post pics.
Other earth is the small green wire by the coils and the bracket that that goes to needs to be bare as well
8091
« on: February 08, 2014, 04:15:34 PM »
Bottom picture L/H piston, if you enlarge it you can see 410 on the relieved area arround the gudgeon pin---so its an F2
8092
« on: February 08, 2014, 01:12:06 PM »
No problem mate any day Sunday to Thursday inclusive. I don't get into blasting and repaint by the way!!!
8093
« on: February 08, 2014, 01:10:23 PM »
Its normally the outer cover "O" ring which is not in the parts list but a 46 x 2 O ring fits, you can order it from Honda as a Goldwing part and the number is posted on here somewhere
8094
« on: February 07, 2014, 09:52:32 PM »
Re builds yes, and I do know a shop if he will take it on but it was £25 per hole plus vat!!! and its a long way to take it out.
I will be at work Sunday night if you want to ring my mobile after about 8pm 07795162623.
8095
« on: February 07, 2014, 04:00:48 PM »
If the thread sticks out underneath and has been coated you need to grind/cut off the thread that is showing then they may move
8096
« on: February 07, 2014, 07:02:28 AM »
If you are doing away with the speedo drive it won't matter but i dont think the later hub has the two flats to drive the very early/modified plate needed for road use
8097
« on: February 07, 2014, 07:00:11 AM »
Its OK but you need a VERY good reboring firm to do the job as if the liner cracks its totalled
8098
« on: February 06, 2014, 06:13:30 AM »
You will find that there is not much Honda stuff on the website as Honda USA jumped on them but if you email them with requests thay still do it all
8099
« on: February 04, 2014, 04:46:17 PM »
Reminds me of my mate who went to a lady of horizontal refreshment and she said "Give me 12 inches and hurt me" so he stuck it up 3 times and belted her with the pisspot
8100
« on: February 03, 2014, 06:30:36 PM »
I think Clymer is the only manual i havent got! Got honda dealer, Cycleserve,Haynes, Pittman, Chiltons and all call it an adjustment screw but tell you to set the crank at 15 deg ATDC and undo the nut then do it up.
never used the 15 deg method myself always just put weight on the crank so that it is just about to turn (all slack at rear) then undone and tightened, but then doing them as a job you learnt how to do everything in 2 crank revolutions to save time and earn more!!!
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