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Messages - NigelWilmshurst
1
« on: January 08, 2017, 10:35:53 PM »
Hi Yozzer
I have not been on here for many months, just watched your you tube stuff on the F2 it looks and sounds the bowl lox! Hope you get the carbs sorted out soon...
2
« on: December 01, 2015, 06:44:03 PM »
Welcome Graeme
I grew up on tuned up 2 stroke twins, still love to hate them, they become part of your soul!
Spark plugs not working under compression were always an issue, as Mathew says iridium spark plugs or similar are a good investment, back in the day we had NGK R plugs, if the new coil doesn't solve the problem I suggest meticulous points and timing set up is essential, I used to have to reface the points with a chisel sharpening stone every 50 miles or so to maintain the power band,
Buy new points and condenser or strip the points into 2 parts and re face perfectly level, check the timing is exact, all else fails clean the plug and use a lead pencil to draw over the electrode and heat up with a lighter, then put a cap full of petrol down the plughole, put the plug back in and fire it up!
3
« on: December 01, 2015, 01:09:12 PM »
Amazing build Yozzer,
Nice neat electrics in the back of frame, looking forward to the completed machine.
Nigel
4
« on: November 14, 2015, 06:50:19 PM »
I also ordered some plastigauge from ebay and double checked all bearings after bolting up the crank cases, same for the 4 No camshaft holder surfaces, measure twice to build once!
5
« on: November 14, 2015, 06:38:48 PM »
I replaced my con rods as the crank lays in the lower case with the con rods pointing to the front of the engine, original letters in some form of ink facing downwards and the new engineers punched dots facing towards you.
I checked another cb750 engine I have stripped and is the same as above, hopefully you can get on with the build now, good luck mate and ask away anything else that is not clear.
Nigel
6
« on: November 14, 2015, 05:38:22 AM »
I also gave my stripped engine to a very reputable engineer to measure all the bearing journals etc, and my con rods were marked the same, he also gave me a diagram for re assembly, I will check my rebuild photos and get back to you, make sure you have a parts washer to clean all the engine parts and blow off cleaning fluid with an air line, oil all bearing surfaces during assembly and only rebuild in a very clean dust free area, don't forget to service the oil pump.
Follow the manual word for word and you will have no problems.
7
« on: November 08, 2015, 01:05:36 PM »
Looking forward to the finished machine, excellent work yozzer.
8
« on: November 06, 2015, 04:16:57 PM »
A very nice example, excellent restoration, what is the guide price...
Nigel
9
« on: November 03, 2015, 10:03:47 AM »
Trig
Definitely the oil tank overflow,
I found on google somebody had the same problem, changed the oil tank and all ok!
10
« on: November 02, 2015, 11:41:27 PM »
Thanks all
I will swap the oil tank and check the lines etc, report back ASAP.
11
« on: November 02, 2015, 09:00:14 PM »
Hi Mick
The oil level is below the upper mark on the dipstick after a run, just come back from a spin out to test, tested before and after, the oil level is correct.
I'm sure there is a problem elsewhere
12
« on: November 02, 2015, 05:43:29 PM »
Hi Brian
The level is as it should be on the dipstick when cold, if the oil is not topped up it continues to drop lower on the dipstick, no smoke from the exhaust and the plug colour is good, either the oil is restricted on the return to the pump or pressure is very high, the oil light does not come on as I make sure the oil doesn't run to low.
13
« on: November 02, 2015, 12:07:37 PM »
Hello everybody
Has anybody had this problem before?
Recent full engine rebuild, now she is run in and I am up to full revs, the problem has shown itself.
Rolling chassis Cb750 F1 1976
Engine Cb750 K4 1974
Tickover no problems, when riding the oil tank overflow at the lowest part of the oil tank chucks oil all over the back tyre.
Possibilities
1, F1 oil tank is not suitable for K4 engine?
2, Pressure relief valve on oil pump is not working properly?
3, I'm thrashing her too hard!
4, when I recently rebuilt the engine I had a choice of 5 oil pumps from K & F1 engines, I chose the best condition oil pump that was well within the wear limits of the service manual and replaced all the o rings and the gasket, all the oil pumps looked the same, are there any different types or are they all the same from 1974 - 1976?
5. Oil tank was blast cleaned and powder coated, very hot process, maybe caused a problem within the oil tank?
All help appreciated
Nigel
14
« on: September 24, 2015, 08:27:52 AM »
Hi Adrian
Nice project you have there, I'm near Tunbridge Wells, I may have some of the spares you need.
Nigel
15
« on: September 23, 2015, 08:15:45 PM »
I had the same problem on my twin disc conversion, after lots of headache I realised the piston seals I had ordered from David silver were too big and not allowing the pistons to return freely, which also created drag on full lock, ordered the correct seals through my local honda dealer and filed the pads.
Eventually sorted the problem out, the lever feels slightly spongy but actually works fine, the F2 reservoir may of been a better choice as it's bigger.
Nigel
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