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Topics - Erny
16
« on: September 02, 2020, 11:07:53 PM »
I'm considering buying this camshaft.
Can somebody confirm it is for CB500/500K (I need it for 550 k1)?
Seller says it is maybe race one (?)
17
« on: August 22, 2020, 08:46:32 PM »
Engine - CB550K1 / 1975 Today during break in ride I discovered cause of oil leak - tapper cap on intake (cyl#1) was not tightened fully (strange as I'm sure I tightened it after tapper adj.) But why - because valve arm is "hitting" cap and making knocking noise  I did not have tappet feeler gauge with me, but just checking free play with hand it looked OK, maybe bit too much. Comparing with intake on cyl#4 it is obvious that tappet adj.screw is "too deep", consequently arm too high and hitting cap (and also nearly hitting cyl head cover...) See attached pics for comparison, incl. "hammered" points in cap ===>>> Can someone provide idea what's wrong, why this tappet arm is so high? Worn arm? Worn cam? Or some other issue I should look for? I'll check other tappets too, but seems only this one tappet/arm has this issue (I did not realised it before when adjusting tappets). Motor has not been opened yet from stock. Note: Temporary I filed part of tappet cap (wide groove) to allow free arm movement, I still need to arrive home tomorrow (>150 miles), hope it will be fine like that. I'll check tappet adjustments tomorrow on cold engine before I go.
18
« on: March 25, 2020, 05:37:05 PM »
My friend is looking for set of standard piston rings for his K6 - found this one in ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/69-76-HONDA-CB750K-STANDARD-PISTON-RINGS-SET-4-RINGS-INCLUDE-11-CB750KPR/254040843680?hash=item3b2603a5a0:g:D0MAAOSwfQRXMPEZBut it is not very clear if set contains only rings for 1 piston or for all 4 pistons. I tried to contact seller but got message "We're sorry we couldn't find an answer for you. Unfortunately this seller is not able to respond to your question. We suggest reviewing the item again to see if your answer is in the seller's listing."Picture shows set for all 4 pistons but text is not so clear and refers to Honda set that is for 1 piston... Does anybody experience with this set from cruzinimage_uk?
19
« on: December 24, 2019, 01:02:36 AM »
wish you all 
20
« on: October 20, 2019, 01:32:11 PM »
Just installed this ign (using stock coils), first results are promising. My strobe light failed, so cannot set it finally,but will go for test ride.
Those you have this installed (Paul?), where you placed your unit on the bike? Looks to me good place is on battery, but will require some additional work while removing or changing battery.
21
« on: September 28, 2019, 02:18:20 PM »
Hi all, as a part of investigation of improper charging I tried to replace stock rec+reg by combined unit from Electrex https://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/RR24.html#SID=439With stock mechanical regulator and charged battery I have 14-14,4 until 6k RPM then it drops to less than 13. When RPMs are back down, voltage again increases back. Suprisingly, with new Electrex unit it looks it charges less than stock. I have 13-13,3V but stable level. Measured with lights on. Anybody with experience with Electrex RR24? Is that normal behaviour? Strange is that accroding to their website, CB500K or CB550K is not listed on this product, but I assume regulators are the same for CB500K1/2, CB550K1 and also CB550F CB500K3. The same unit they sell for CB750
22
« on: August 31, 2019, 08:25:25 AM »
I want to xcheck, what's your normal fuel consumption on 550K (K1)?
After weekend spent with 550 I can say I can do 125 miled per 10 liters of gasoline.
That gives 5L/100km.
Was riding alone with light luggage on rear seat
23
« on: August 05, 2019, 10:45:39 PM »
Those who have US import may still have sealed beam headlight that has quite low light output power (at least for me, very insufficient, even rated 40/50W) and "position light" in front indicators (that are consuming significant energy - 8W each) I wanted to convert to OEM Honda but stock H4 headlight insert is pretty expensive (Stanley) if found. Fortunately, there is pretty good and cheaper solution I just tested on my CB550K1. I was looking quite some time for good replacement insert (H4) but all I found on ebay were either not known brand to me (=no big trust) or pricey.. Finally I found Hella on amazon on pretty good price (free shipping) : https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B000VU7C1Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1It is Hella H4 insert for continental Europe - right hand driving (Hella P/N 002 395 – 071) that is 1:1 replaceable with sealed beam. It comes with "parking bulb" already inserted in and sealing rubber cap (to protect from dust and moisture). One note for people taking care all details - Hella insert is glass, but almost flat, compare to convex stock sealed beam / H4. So, if you decide to go for: Only what you need to source additionally is H4 bulb (I highly recommend Philips X-tremeVision moto) and make 2 short wires to connect "parking bulb" that connects 6.3mm terminals on parking bulb to bullet male terminals (+12V and ground). So, female 6.3mm terminal on one side and male bullet terminal on other side. For UK - look for left handed drive alternative at Hella website (different P/N!) US import bikes have position light in front indicators - those can be now deactivaed - on my CB550K1 - simply unplug Lb/W and O/W front indicators wires from terminals in headlight and connect new "parking bulb" Lb/W or O/W terminal and connect additional wire from ground (green terminal) to parking bulb. in total, it is almost energy neutral: - US setup is 2x8W (position lights) + 40W low beam = 56W - new H4 Setup is 4W parking bulb + 55W low beam = 59W 3W delta can be compensated by swapping rear tail bulb 21/5W by LED one... Note: as I understood from other posts here or from another sources, in principle any standard 7'' H4 insert should fit, not necessary Hella only. I forgot to take some pics, I'll do and post here next time I open headlight again.
24
« on: August 05, 2019, 09:46:31 PM »
Time to work on another iusse I'd like to fix (low prio till now). I have shifting issues on lower RPMs, typically when cruising in city traffic or smooth ride (slow acceleration, shifing on low RPM up to 3-4k) It is almost impossibble to shift up from 1->2, 2->3, 3->4 nomal way, practially always neutral appears (between 1 and 2) or false neutral between 2-3 and 3-4. 4->5 usually works Scenario: When I shift, I move lever all way up and feel I cannot move more, like there is some block, more force does not help, so only neutral is engaged. If I try to keep it lifted up longer I feel block is released and upper gear is engaged, but not always. Most of the time I have to release cluch and lever, then press again clutch and then i can shift from neutral to upper gear. You can imagine it is very annoying when starting from traffic lights, you want to be fast, but then 1-neutral-2...shame  What is strange, shifting 2->3, 3->4 works fine in higher RPMs (stronger acceleration), or at least I don't observe it. Shifting 1-2 in higher RPMs is not perfect too (neutral appears) but better than in lower RPMs. Donwnshifting is OK, all gears, all RPMs. Clutch works perfectly, very smooth. I suppose this is not just a standard "feature" of 550. Was thinking if it can be related to oil used? I use mineral MOTUL 4T 3000, 20W 50, the same as on my CB750 K7 (that works perfect) Any other ideas? Should I be worried that I need to open engine? It was not open yet, 15.000 miles on the clock.
25
« on: July 30, 2019, 11:00:19 PM »
Hi all,
when troubleshooting my k1 mix issue, I was replacing also o rings between manifolds and head and also putting new rubbers between manifolds and carbs.
When I removed manifolds I was quite surprised:
1. pipe that connects to carb#2 (btw the one I still have issue with probablly? rich mix) is machined the way that grooves for insulator rubber are quite deep on one side and almost no grooves on another!!! How this cold pass quality check?? I'm looking for another manifold, see my post in "seeking"
2. "intake holes" inside manifolds are not really centered, I woould understand certain tolerance but this? Looks too much to me. Like that every cylinder will have different conditions for intake. Maybe at the end it does not influence 'standard" engine like this but still
So another reason I'm looking for another 1-2 manifold (3-4 is not perfect too but bit better)
Pics for better understanding attached, your opinions/experiences welcome!
27
« on: June 22, 2019, 11:44:07 AM »
Starting new thread as it seems I will have more questions. Sorry for them, going to "play" with carb for the first time.. Appologize if this has been answered elsewhere many times already So let's start: - is it possible to check and change needle settings (to see which notch is used) without complete disassembly? I'm afraid answer is no, but just in case  - on my carb set, after I removed main jets and turned carbs over emulsification tube dropped out just by gravity.. Just on 1st carb. Tube is very loose in rge hole.. Is that ok? No impact on carb function? - mixture screw - I suppose it changes air flow, correct? So turning in makes mix richer? 
28
« on: June 20, 2019, 01:36:36 PM »
As I still have issues with my stock carb 022A (550K1 1975, USA model), I'm preparing for eventual rebuild Can you please recommend proven source of carb parts (kit)? I found one on 4into1 https://4into1.com/carburetor-repair-kits-complete-set-honda-cb550k-1974-1976/ - but not sure about quality They claim kit comes from Taiwan Ideally if I can buy it in EU due to taxes/shipping... I want to buy at least needle valves, needles with clips and emulsifier tubes, viton rings
29
« on: April 28, 2019, 07:51:07 PM »
Hand on my speedo gauge is shaking in some speeds, wants to clean and then re-lubricate speedo gear on the front wheel.
But wondering what lubricant shall I use? Thinking on some grease that is verz soft anf does not turn into liquid...
Any recommendations?
Note: the same I want to do on my CB750K K7
30
« on: April 24, 2019, 01:33:47 PM »
My stock petcock (2-way output) is leaking via cone plastic and I was not able to fix it, despite throughout cleaning. I tried to find replacement cone element but did not find, seems does not exist  So, I decided to buy new OEM Honda with 1-way output (16950-341-671) due to reasonable price. Plan was to use T metallic splitter to connect 2 hoses to 1 output. However, there is very little space available to bend hoses and seems I'll not be able to make w/o bending hose that it will decrease petrol flow... Other solution could be to use additional elbow "connector" or ideally U shaped one or other shape connector/splitter... Does anybody have such solution implemented? Any advice what kind of connector / splitter fits? Or any other inspiration from other Honda bikes? 1-way petcock pic here:
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