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Messages - royhall
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2581
« on: November 20, 2015, 03:40:52 PM »
Cheers Chris. Any ideas on the small location nipple thingy?
2582
« on: November 20, 2015, 03:23:54 PM »
Just got to the last jobs and am fitting the control cables. Got all new cables from Silvers, all genuine except for the throttle cables that aren't available. When I tried to fit the throttle 'pull' cable, the nipple on the carb end is too small diameter and will not stay located. The inner cable also appears to be too long as all the adjusters are on max and its still loose. See pictures.
Has anybody encountered this before. The end should be the same as the 400F with the cable length longer to accommodate the higher handlebars.
Also has anybody got a diagram for the correct cable runs. Thanks.
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2583
« on: November 19, 2015, 06:58:04 PM »
Sorry Bodd should have said.
All the copper washers I use at work and on the bikes (hundreds in all) have come off eBay due to price.
Unless its a special, a copper washer is a copper washer. DSS's are in a bag with a number that's the only difference.
They still should be annealed though, but most don't bother with no problems at all. The ones I use at work are on hydraulics at high pressure that's why we anneal them.
Wouldn't have thought your bike was compromised in any way at all to be honest
2584
« on: November 19, 2015, 03:17:56 PM »
Copper Washers should be annealed before use whatever because they age harden. As they don't have an age stamp who knows how old they are. We use hundreds at work and every single one gets annealed before use.
My mate bought a set of copper washers off eBay only to find they were copper plated steel. He chucked them in the bin and used the box for something else.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
2585
« on: November 19, 2015, 07:23:30 AM »
And just one helmet between them. Good old days before the nanny state got involved.
Went to a fair few biker funerals myself when I was a teenager.
Thought! Maybe the helmet laws aren't a bad thing after all.
2586
« on: November 19, 2015, 07:17:18 AM »
Think you may be stuck with it if you want the correct items.
Have just about finished two Honda restorations now, and the parts that were the most ridiculous prices were all the rubber parts.
The silliest were new carb isolators for the 750F2 from the States, they ended up at just short of £140. And they are just sitting in a box unused because they didn't fit correctly and they were made from the wrong rubber (Ash had them tested). And at that price they didn't even come with clips.
Major rip off (and you cant even say rip off Britain as they came from the States).
2587
« on: November 19, 2015, 06:45:48 AM »
Wasn't just the CMS exhausts that were crap it was the whole production run including those at DSS and a German supplier. To Silvers credit he pulled the entire stock after he found out about the quality and doesn't sell them now (except for a few oddments that he's selling off).
2588
« on: November 18, 2015, 02:45:40 PM »
Just thought I would keep this thread up to date as loads of you replied. Thanks for that.
The wrong way around seal put a bit of a downer on the project so I had a couple of weeks off from it. During that 2 weeks I got all the necessary seals and gaskets ordered, got 2 seals as I decided to have a go at Orcadians fix first. Its not that I didn't want to take the time to remove the engine, I just didn't want to risk damaging the paint on the engine or the frame.
As the seal was the wrong way round with the steel liner showing I carefully drilled it 2mm and put a screw in to pull out the steel cage. After removing the spring the seal then prised out of the housing very easily.
Gave everything a good clean and oiled the seal and shaft. Unlike Orcadians fix I did not use Hylomar as I was afraid of it blocking the oil drain hole. I started the seal at a slight angle tapping it gently, with my small soft mallet, in a circular motion until all the circumference of the seal had started. Then I knocked it home with a socket just smaller than the OD. It was obvious when the lip of the seal entered the slot as it jumped into place almost on its own.
I then ran the engine on the starter with plugs out. The pressure came up straight away and not a single drop of oil came out. I tried it over and over again and all is good.
So the seal is fixed and it took all of 10 minutes. Remember though that the seal was in the wrong way round. Had the seal been in correctly with it's lip in the slot I doubt I would have got it out that easily.
Project now back on track. Thanks, not just for the advice, but for the words of encouragement. Cheers.
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One seal in place as Honda intended. Hooray!!!
2589
« on: November 12, 2015, 08:06:23 AM »
Found this http://www.mcnews.com/mcn/technical/2012decethanol.pdf very interesting reading.
Think I may give it a go to see if I can find some pump fuel ie. "BP Ultimate" that really is Ethanol free. This will show it up nicely, so have taken the plunge and ordered a kit. Will report back when the kit arrives and I have time to test it. If it works well it's worth every penny of £50.
If "BP Ultimate" does turn out to contain Ethanol, the kit will get a fair bit of use making all the petrol I use Ethanol free. What price peace of mind?
Hi Roy
just wondering how you have gone on with the kit ?
Greebo
Greebo. Have replied to your PM, sorry its late been kinda busy. I checked out a few petrol sources around me (North West) and BP Ultimate Super Unleaded is Ethanol free. I know it is as I have tested it myself.
2590
« on: November 07, 2015, 11:15:35 AM »
Hi
The bike came with a motad on it 4:1.
The seller also gave me 4 of the pipes above. Can anybody identify it?
Thanks
Pablo
90% sure they are Italian MIVV exhausts. Cheers.
2591
« on: November 05, 2015, 12:35:44 PM »
Yep, I can barely believe I did it myself.
Consensus appears to be the engine has to out, so that's the way I shall go.
That said, whats the easiest way of doing this. Can I take the engine out whole and get it upside down on the bench and just take off the bottom casing. Or has the whole thing got to come apart again.
Thanks for all the opinions, your right its best to do it the correct way.
Will take out all the after market seals whilst I'm in there and fit Honda Genuine. Have heard some bad reports about the after market seals, obviously after I had fitted them, so may as well kill that problem as well whilst I'm in there.
Thanks all.
2592
« on: November 05, 2015, 08:10:50 AM »
Thanks guys. After a lifetime in engineering I put a seal in the wrong way round. "What a Muppet". I'm going to be sat in a window dribbling by the time I'm 60 at this rate.  Think I will attempt Arcadian's fix first off as another rebuild is a big price to pay for a small mistake. As long as I don't damage anything but the seal its worth a go. I may have to make a bespoke puller of some kind? And here is the picture taken during the engine build clearly showing the offending seal in the wrong way round. I wouldn't mind too much if there wasn't a rib on the seal that fits in a slot. [ Guests cannot view attachments ] Cheers all.
2593
« on: November 04, 2015, 06:15:25 PM »
Yep I'm almost certain its the wrong way round. Been checking Google pictures and its the seal with the steel backing ring. I fitted that ring to the outside of the engine, should be inside I think. O B****cks.
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2594
« on: November 04, 2015, 05:52:43 PM »
I just got a (gentlemanly) brand new timing cover for the 750 and its got the grey cement inside it. Must be a noise thing.
2595
« on: November 04, 2015, 05:42:42 PM »
Well I was going great with the 350F rebuild. Got the wiring together this afternoon (still needs tidying) and everything checked out and worked great first time. Then spun the engine over on the starter with the plugs out to get oil pressure up. Got pressure fairly quick and it holds for about 8 seconds before the light comes on again, so all's good. Then I noticed a pool of oil on the floor coming from the timing cover. On closer inspection its the timing side crankshaft oil seal that's pouring oil out. Its either a bad seal or I've put it in the wrong way around. Anybody know if it can be changed in situ. Got a horrible feeling the engines coming out again to split the cases. Hope not, don't think I could face that at the moment as that's a long way in reverse. Thanks all. PS this was the oil seal kit I used: http://shop.honda4.nl/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=35_93_105&products_id=734
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