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Topics - Oddjob
76
« on: May 10, 2023, 02:05:05 AM »
I've just finished a bank of CB500 627B carbs for another member on here and oddly when they arrived I noticed the return spring wasn't standard. I asked where it had come from and was told that David Silver supplied it, if they did they no longer do as the original part number 16036-323-004 doesn't link to anything. I did note however how much lighter it was in operation.
After finishing the bank of carbs and oiling all the linkages I decided to test how much lighter it is in comparison to the standard spring. Results are quite interesting.
The non genuine spring is slightly shorter than the standard one and is quite stretched even with no throttle open, it takes 7lbs of pressure before the carbs begin to open.
In comparison, fitting a standard spring makes the throttle much harder, a hefty 14lbs of pressure required to get the carbs to start to open.
As an experiment I fitted a small 10mm stainless steel split ring and tested the standard spring again, just doing that reduced the pressure needed to 12lbs. Not a massive amount I'll admit but around a 14% reduction.
I tried the non genuine spring with the same split ring and that dropped it to 6lbs and the throttle felt extremely light, so light I was thinking maybe that's a little too light as it didn't exactly shut the bank down hard when it's let go.
Just goes to show how much pressure we are asked to provide to open the throttle on the 500/550, no wonder I had a bulging forearm but only on my right arm when I was younger. I do know it used to make my arm ache after a few hours.
A bigger split ring would reduce the pressure even further I reckon, there would be a limit though on how big, as you'd chance the spring coming off under fast contraction.
77
« on: April 12, 2023, 05:19:31 PM »
I bought this some time ago and was surprised when I opened the packaging just how poor it really is, the paintwork whilst still good was very dull and lifeless looking, the finish on the castings was really rough and generally it just looked shabby. It wasn't rusty or had any corrosion on it at all, IMO that's just how they look, maybe the paint was better when it was brand new but if so age has really dulled it down. TBH I'd only bought the footrest for what I call the hero blob plate,(and of course I found the missing one after I bought it) this is a small plate that bolts to the bottom of the rubber footrest and has a small blob attached, it's commonly called these days a hero blob, the idea being that if you an get the bike that far over that these start to grind across the road surface you're a hero. Sad that isn't it. This plate is the main difference between the CB500K and the CB550F L/H footrests, I've had a CB550F L/H footrest fitted to my CB500K for many years and there is no difference in feel or location. I just liked the idea of saving the rubber from being scuffed to death on the road surface, I thought it looked unsightly and I'd rub them so badly they'd wear through to the steel pin inside. So when I was getting some parts freshly powder coated I thought I'd spruce this footrest up, I stripped off all the dull paint, flatted the metal down so it looked smooth and had the pin and it's carrier done in gloss black. I didn't have the hero blob plate done. The rubber is of course still brand new, as are the screws that hold the plate on and the pivot pin. I have replaced the washer on the pin and the split pin with stainless steel ones, the split pin is now a stainless steel R clip. I still have the original washer and split pin and these will be included if you prefer the original look. Here's a pic of a CMS footrest  And here's a pic of the one I'm selling.   The main advantage to fitting new is the way they hang, over time the pivot pin hole elongates and ovals, this allows the footrest to hang at a lower angle, follow another old bike and look at their footrests, it's very common to see them angling towards the ground so they don't sit at 90 degrees like they did when new. Also the pad on the footrest itself wears away due to the constant motion it's subjected to, only way to cure that is to have a blob of weld done and grind it back to shape, which is what I am doing with my own footrests. You can see by the before and after pics how much brighter and fresher looking the newly powder coated one looks, not only does it look better but it will last far longer as well, no more unsightly rust forming within months of fitting. The pivot pin is a tight fit and has been well greased to stop any undue wear. The rubber has also has some lube on it so it will come off in the future with little problem when you need to replace the worn rubber. CMS want £119 for this part, DS want £127 plus P&P and it's a special order. I'll take £90 inc P&P and if you would prefer the hero blob plate to match the rest I'll replace it for one of mine done at the same time for £5 extra just to cover the cost of having the one fitted powder coated.
78
« on: March 16, 2023, 07:33:55 PM »
79
« on: March 15, 2023, 06:26:32 PM »
I need to refill my refurbished Marzocchi AG Strada rear dampers, according to the blurb it's supposed to be Special Oil Marzocchi SAE5, you can't seem to buy that now. I contacted a dealer specialising in fork oils and such and he said not to use normal fork oil in dampers as it wasn't suitable. Yet, I've seen quite a few bottles of 5w oil which says it's for use in front suspensions and rear dampers. They can't both be right.
I have some Honda fork oil which I'm considering using, anyone else got any suggestions? I may go for 7.5 or 10w instead of 5w if that is hard to find.
80
« on: March 08, 2023, 05:56:30 PM »
Need 2 of these rubbers, should be 6 in total and I've only got 4 for some reason. They may have split when I removed them and I forgot. 83618-323-000 is the part number, anyone?
Typically I've just done an order at DS or I could have added them to that, just my luck.
81
« on: March 03, 2023, 07:23:09 PM »
After a long conversation with Roo regarding leaving the site this Sunday I have been persuaded that it's better for everyone if I stayed. It may not please everyone but then you never can can you?
My staying though will mean I'll be posting far less, I won't be offering any advice unless specifically asked for it. I will be mainly concentrating on my own projects and some of my friends projects. Whether you find my posts informative or helpful is up to you, if you don't feel free not to comment.
82
« on: February 24, 2023, 11:29:27 AM »
After the amount of interest expressed on the forum re the Ceramic coating I've been having done recently I thought it may be useful to not only say where it was done but to give directions if anyone wanted to drop parts off personally, it's not the easiest place to find so any directions could come in very handy. The name of the place is Camcoat, 129 Hoyle Street, Bewsey Industrial Estate, Warrington WA5 0LP. https://www.camcoat.com/Quickest way in to it is via J9 M62. Go south down the A49 towards Warrington, over the first roundabout, at the 4th set of traffic lights look for McDonalds on the right, filter lane to turn right which you need, turn right onto Kerfoot Lane, go over the hump back bridge over the railway lines and through the traffic lights immediately after, at the next set of lights turn left into Bewsey Road, then take the first left into Hoyle Street, carry on to the end, at the end of this road is a set of gates straight ahead, do not go through them, turn left just before and then follow the road round to the right, at the very bottom of this road on your left is Camcoat, it's the 2nd from the last unit. The range of surface finishes they can do is extensive so be sure to make sure you know what you want and more importantly that they do as well. For satin black ceramic ask for BHK-1 coat For gold like the wheels on my project page ask for CG-Gold For a chrome like finish ask for Cermakrome MCX. There is also a silver finish similar to the crankcase colour which I think is called ALU but will confirm when I get my parts back next week. They have also started to do powder coating, I've got some parts in at the moment for gloss black finish, I'll post pics of them and an assessment of my opinion on the finish when I pick them up next week. Prices seem to be very reasonable and turn round time is approx 2 weeks at present. Hope this helps.
83
« on: February 22, 2023, 01:46:31 PM »
I've had some old halves of switchgear ceramic coated so I an experiment on them, plus I wanted to see how they came out as from what I've heard powder coating being much thicker can obscure the lettering. Finally got round to doing a little painting on them but I'm unsure on what I consider to be the closest colour to the original, plus are the original letters done in red or a sort of burnt orange? I've done 2 switch halves, both upper halves of the left hand switch on a CB550F. The L and the R are both different colours with 4 colours used in total. Here's how they came out. The letters aren't full of paint yet so they may go a little darker or brighter after they get painted more, you can get the gist though.  If you prefer the L vote number 1, if you prefer the R vote number 2. Next switch  Again, if you prefer the L vote 3 and for the R vote 4. Just so you can see how they came out here's the lower half of the same Left hand switchgear.  I think they've come out really well, these are just spares as my switchgear I will be using haven't been done yet, just in case they didn't turn out as expected. Shame really as they are in excellent condition, seems a waste to get them done but needs must etc. On an aside, once you start to remove the original paint on them (and I don't think these are anodised as that wouldn't cover up the casting marks) the surface under whatever they used at Honda is pretty poor, loads of small pits, casting marks even blemishes, you can see some of the pitting in the top pic. I also found out that if you use thinners on the new ceramic whilst it doesn't lift it off it does turn it shinier, on pic 1 you an see where I just did a small section and on pic 2 I've done the whole switch. Whether this will dull done as it evaporates off I have no idea. Worth noting though if you get yours done.
84
« on: February 22, 2023, 10:28:59 AM »
85
« on: February 01, 2023, 09:20:01 PM »
You all know how I dislike Henry Cole (Whispers Muppet) but Alan Millyard was using an Induction heater the last 2 episodes to bend metal. It seemed to work very well but typical of Cole, no mention of what make it is or where to buy it, doesn't he realise that saying stuff like that can get him free stuff from the manufacturers for the endorsement?
I'm thinking it looks like a Sealey but I can't spot it on their website, it may be that they positioned it backwards as all you could see was the On/Off toggle switch, I think it may be the Sealey VS230. Anyone know for certain?
86
« on: January 19, 2023, 10:25:32 PM »
Just taken apart my petrol cap that came with the new tank today. All the O-rings have hardened and the 4 way rubber doughnut behind the tap itself is also hard as nails.
Got me thinking, has anyone ever worked out the Viton equivalent sizes, the parts book show them as available separately but fails to give the sizes, the most you can get is the one between the cap and the tank described as 23mm but no section width. What with DS wanting £5.54 for one and £6.01 for the other (you can bet these are old parts so most likely nitrile and not Viton and due to the exposure to modern fuels we should be looking at Viton ones as a replacement) these aren't exactly cheap but most likely the Viton equivalent will be miles cheaper. The 4 way doughnut thing I'll have to source as genuine. Float bowl is rounded off so a new one of those is needed as well.
I can guess the sizes but the ones I've taken off are really flat so getting a section size could prove tricky.
So anyone already done this?
87
« on: January 15, 2023, 03:52:45 PM »
Anyone who has one of the above, can you let me know the dimensions of the chain adjuster stoppers.. The ones that slide into the back of the swinging arm.
Need to know how thick they are, top to bottom measurement, how wide is the bit that slides into the swinging arm, bolt hole size etc.
Thanks.
88
« on: January 11, 2023, 04:37:30 PM »
Someone on another forum wanted ideas on routes for the traditional Lands End to John O' Groats ride. It got me thinking, has anyone ever heard of anyone riding the same route but keeping to the coastline whenever possible? In theory you could actually start anywhere and end in the same place. Looking at Google maps for instance you can see some peninsulas are only served by one road, so I'd say that excludes that part of the country, you can't use the same road for more than say 1 mile. Not sure how many miles it would cover but certainly quite a few more than the traditional route and of course take far longer but the scenery would be much better and all the sea air would give you some lovely rosy cheeks 
89
« on: November 22, 2022, 01:05:46 PM »
90
« on: November 03, 2022, 07:40:00 PM »
Looking for some of the above, I really only want the stud part that goes into the camcover as mine were so rusty I had to bin them. Need 3 ideally.
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