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Topics - Binman180
1
« on: September 21, 2017, 02:34:13 PM »
Hi,
I'm toying with the idea of anodising the aluminium fork lowers on my cb400f.
Is it possible to safely remove the Studs on the bottom and the one on the side? Are these press fit or threaded?
Thanks
2
« on: September 02, 2017, 08:26:22 AM »
Hello Ladies and Gents, I am in the process of replacing my Drive Chain and Sprockets on my CB400F. I purchased a Swift o ring / x ring chain and JT Front/Rear Sprockets in this Kit: http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/honda/cb_400_f_f1_400_4/75-77/picture/swift_heavy_duty_gold_sx-ring_chain_and_jt_sprocket_kit/Unfortunately I didn't get my bike with the rear sprocket chain guard but am I missing something here? The old Sprocket was flat on the outward face and had grooves on the inward face which the Sprocket Fastener bolt (Item 355) seemed to sit in and the new JT Sprocket is just flat allowing the Sprocket Fasteners to spin This can been seen in the attached picture comparing the two. Secondly, on the new Sprocket there is a lip which interferes with the flanged nut. Reversing the Sprocket doesn't let it sit any better against the Sprocket Fastener bolts. Regarding the chain, The new chain measures ~25mm width at the pins, the old chain measures ~22mm. Being a wider chain slightly, it appears to be catching on the engine casing, is this expected or normal or is there some sort of adjustment here? would neatly filing the case back on the catch points cause any issues? (See attached) Thanks.
3
« on: March 14, 2017, 11:05:13 AM »
Hello Good People,
Regarding the CB400F,
Does anyone know or could anyone measure the height of the tool tray lid?
Thanks
4
« on: October 19, 2016, 11:38:40 AM »
Hello all,
I apologise if this topic has been covered enough already but I want to repaint my 400/4 engine during the Christmas break.
When I rebuilt the engine ~ a year ago I used the VHT paint that DSS stocks. My preparation was individually bead blasting each part and a solvent wash etc. The paint was applied as per instructions, only I omitted to bake the paint as our electrode oven was out of action at the time but his site suggested that it would cure under engine heating.
Fast forward around 3k miles and the paint looks quite poor in my opinion with some areas down to the bare metal and I'm still left with silver over my hands etc when handling/working the engine/bike at all.
I came across a high(ish) temperature aluminium/zinc paint that lidl was stocking (See attached) at £2.50 a tin. On other parts I've painted the paint seems pretty good, resists solvents, durable and doesn't require baking. However, the temperature of this paint is up to 250c.
Do you guys think this is high enough heat resistance? I also plan on using an etch primer on the parts but I am unsure if etch primer has a high enough service temperature, or whether or not i would be better off with/without it
The engine will be being painted assembled this time and I plan on gunk green washing, rub down with scotchbrite and giving it a good clean off with brake cleaner or some other degreaser.
I will also test this out on some scrap aluminium and put it in the now working electrode oven up to 250c
Thanks
5
« on: September 15, 2016, 11:57:11 AM »
Hi all, Like most I really struggle getting the air box rubbers to seat on the carbs of my 400/4, mine seem to be quite hard and I noticed these on the DSS website http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/part_195135/Has anyone used these? Are they soft/easy to fit? Or is it best to spend the money elsewhere for now and struggle on with the ones I have? They aren't split or breaking up just hardened Thanks, Ryan
6
« on: May 18, 2016, 09:17:46 AM »
Hello good people,
Just a quick question regarding the oil pickup in a cb400f.
What is the function of the spring that is inserted between the oil pick up and the casing? is it critical? Mine is missing for some reason.
Thanks, Ryan
7
« on: January 15, 2016, 11:47:09 AM »
Hello, I've experimented with various LED lights for my CB400f to try and lower the power draw of my bike. I'm aware LED lights have a poor reputation but I commute on my bike and I've got a setup currently which is pretty darn good. MOST of my commute to work is on back roads without street lighting. Thanks to the setup I have, I am successfully running Oxford heated grips. Headlight: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251740749562?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AITWhen I got my bike, the bulb currently in place was a normal H4 bulb 55w. This didn't offer particularly good visibility. After plenty of negative reviews of various different types, I bought this one. It draws less than the original headlight and outputs much more light. I can't comment on reliability because I haven't had it long but I'm very pleased with it. Only downside is that I had to swap some terminals around on the wiring harness. Rear Tail/Stop: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181935891649?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AITI've bought and tried quite a few 1157 rear LED lights and have always been dissapointed. Either the light wasn't very bright or the contrast between the two modes wasn't that great so it could have been less obvious to the driver behind in comparison to a convensional bulb. I recently bought this one and i'm happy with it. It is VERY bright I must say, brighter than a normal bulb by some margin. The contrast between tail and stop is much greater than any of the LED rear lights I've tried so far. Instrument/side lights: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300612430026?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AITAlthough probably not needed, I thought save a little bit more power here by fitting LEDs. I originally tried the SMD type ones (with 5 or so LEDs dotted over) but they were unreliable and not very nice looking even under the dash panel. So I tried these ones and they are much better. give off a nice bright light behind the instruments, seem reliable and I also use one for the side light. I haven't changed the indicator bulbs because they aren't powered often enough and I quite like the deeper colour that normal bulbs give off here. Hope this helps anyone out. I'll follow up with pictures when I get the chance. Thanks, Ryan
8
« on: January 06, 2016, 05:42:57 PM »
Hello guys!
I don't know if this will be of any use to anyone but decided to make a stainless tool tray (Mine was missing when I got the bike) and a new air filter spring clip thing (also missing when I got the bike) and thought I'd upload some pics.
I've scanned notes for the tray but I didn't make any notes for the spring as I just bent it up with two pairs of pliers until it fit. I used some 308L (Stainless) 2.4mm welding filler wire.
I found some old toolbox rubber lining and lined the tray to stop any rattling of contents.
Hope this helps anyone in the future.
Thanks, Ryan
9
« on: October 16, 2015, 04:16:36 PM »
Hello all,
a year later and about 1500 quid I've nearly come to the end of rebuilding my supposedly already rebuild 400F.
One of my last tasks is to fabricate a new exhaust. The advice I seek was the way I need to make the silencer. I'll be replicating the headers and collector box (undecided) as closely as possible. For the silencer, Could I use a simple straight through design with a perf core wrapped in rock wool with a thin stainless shroud? or will this mean difficulty tuning the carbs using standard settings and jets?
Thanks, Ryan.
10
« on: September 04, 2015, 01:03:00 PM »
Hi all,
I appear to be missing this part from my build. which could explain a slightly snatchy back wheel before the rebuild. I bought some of the brass replacements from germany but realised this part was missing!
I'm going round all the usual places to find a replacement of this part, however - if anyone has this item, could they be kind enough to post a few pictures and dimensions so that I may fabricate this part if I cannot source it?
Thanks, Ryan.
11
« on: July 24, 2015, 09:40:09 AM »
Hi all,
I've had my tank and side panels painted and thought I'd share the result. (see attachments for before/after photos - these are before flattening and polishing)
The colour I went with is Honda R81 Milano Red (Light Shade as the normal shade looked a little dark to me sampled)
Thanks, Ryan.
12
« on: May 20, 2015, 05:59:06 PM »
Hello all, So I've just managed to knock the price down on my own 400f. See pic. I tightened this bolt to 4ft-lbs, Perhaps too much? and that piece pinged off somewhere in the room. are there any recommendations to tart this up? Is this a big deal even? I would weld it and smooth it over but it depends on the alloy and the casting as to how well that would turn out and I don't feel like trial and error. Maybe someone else has tried?  Thanks, Ryan. P.S. the hair line under the bolt is just a hair.
13
« on: April 04, 2015, 09:19:59 PM »
Hello all, Posting to help out a friend with low oil pressure woes. http://kz400.createforumhosting.com/rebuilt-z250a-low-oil-pressure-t20814.htmlSo I tested the gauge for him and it was for all intents and purposes accurate. Does anyone have any experience with this bike? Perhaps any ideas on what to try next? Currently looking down the avenue of some larger displacement engine oil pump if the dimensions are right. Thanks in advance, Ryan.
14
« on: February 11, 2015, 01:20:09 PM »
Hello!
I need a little help selecting and getting crankcase half shell bearings:
From the pictures attached - I think I need 2 blacks, 6 greens and 2 browns.
The problem I have is sourcing black bearings and DSS has both the Brown and greens. Are the browns a close enough match to use instead of blacks if i'm lucky or should I halt my rebuild until blacks eventually turn up?
Thanks in advance, Ryan.
15
« on: February 08, 2015, 09:15:10 PM »
Hi Guys,
This part looks pretty worn to me, however, is it actually worth replacing? or should I just dismantle it, clean up the burrs and re-install. I can't see the part actually failing in service. but whats the general thoughts on this one?
Thanks, Ryan
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