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Messages - Orcade-Ian
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1036
« on: January 22, 2015, 10:49:25 PM »
I have both 350/4 and 400/4 and parts books for both. There are a great many common parts with 333 part numbers, which is 350/4 on the 400/4 which normally has 377 part numbers.
A quick check on the swing arm shows 333 middle number for 350 and 377 for 400, so apparently different. If you are unsure you can check each part on CMSNL web site, with pics and descriptions and part numbers. A hell of a job to do for the whole bike though!!
lots of parts definitely interchange:
wheels except rear sprocket
fork legs and stanchions but not shrouds
mudguards
chainguard, but 350 is black
indicators but not stalks
airbox
clutch
engine ball bearings
crank and rods
generator, rotor, stator and cover
points cover
rear dampers but 350 has shrouds
hundreds of bolts and nuts
Ian
1037
« on: January 21, 2015, 10:23:15 PM »
As most of you say, there's no accounting for taste.
To help Trig through his day, I bought a brand spanking new CX500A on Jan 16th 1980 and put over 35000 miles on it in less than 3 years. I added Sigma panniers and top box and really got the Continental touring bug. Saw a new GL500 Silver Wing in Meppel, Holland but too dear for me back then. I now have a Gold GL1500SE Gold Wing - our 6th. Now done well over 100,000 Wing miles, as you say, no accounting for taste!!
1038
« on: January 21, 2015, 03:45:21 PM »
Certainly looks like it's eaten something that disagreed with it, they look like quite large lumps missing, so may have been trapped by the screen in the sump and didn't make it to the pump. You will strip that anyway, presumably. What were the crank and shells like? I don't know what hardening process Honda would have used but it would be a good quality steel to start with, then probably induction hardened around the teeth and dogs which would go deeper than case and still leave a tough core. We're you thinking of having some made by asking that question? They would charge a lot more than cmsnl or Silvers though for one offs. There are plenty of sources for good secondhand clusters and even individual gears. There is a chap who specialises in 400/4 stuff on the net, if I can find his web address I'll pass it on. They may be the same as 350/4 which was only a 5 speed and lots of those broken Stateside. Hope you get sorted, Regards, Ian Just found Steve, he's at www.400fourbits.co.uk
1039
« on: January 17, 2015, 01:19:28 PM »
Hi Ash,
I've just done a set on the front wheel of the bike I got back from Hull. They were in fairly good nick to start with but I cleaned them up on the lathe with emery tape, one end at a time. Take care not to wrap the tape around the spoke but just rest it on the surface. Then with a wire brush in the pillar drill I went over each one until satisfied. The nipples were put on a spoke and cleaned in the pillar drill, one at a time. Next was a dip in brick/path cleaner (dilute hydrochloric acid) for about ten minutes to remove any bits of rust and original zinc. Rinse off and then one minute in caustic soda, rinse again and you're good to plate.
I like to be in control of as much as I possibly can - obviously I have to farm out chrome plating but I have used Prestige in Mexborough for years now with excellent (but slow) results. They did a brilliant job on my last set of DID rims with all stampings still legible.
There are some pics on my site in the What's new section
Ian
1040
« on: January 09, 2015, 10:13:39 PM »
Thanks for your concern Julie,
Here in Orkney we had 107mph winds recorded at Kirkwall Airport. Most folk are quite used to it but it's still a bit scary. A few power outages, but no real damage reported so far. Wind has eased but coming back during the night, but only up to a breezy 80mph. Others in Scotland haven't faired quite so well and are still without power.
'The reason I was doing 107 officer, was to keep out of the wind'
1041
« on: January 03, 2015, 11:46:12 AM »
I have 2 genuine Honda ones, bought many years ago when they were cheap and the OE chrome quality was not fantastic even back then. The main blade always had what looked like brush marks and the stays still had the press marks in them and only polished on the easy access areas, like a lot of Honda stuff.
I've just bought back my old early 400/4 from my Cousin and was contemplating buying another new one and had considered one of these replicas.
Temporarily I've put one of the new ones on this recent addition, which was really intended for my 'minter', but that one is still a way from being finished, the other new one is on the 350/4.
Can anyone really tell the DS copy from a genuine, not restored original? If so, what is the real giveaway?
1042
« on: December 15, 2014, 01:20:20 PM »
Hello and welcome from Orkney,
Certainly looks like one worth doing and also that you are proceeding well. I have a good friend on Lismore who is up to the same tricks as you and I. I sometimes meet up with another friend from South and we have Springtime tour of the Wild West - might meet up for a brew sometime. I'm on with another 400/4 at the moment - engine out next for the usual cam chain, repair tensioner and fettle the cosmetics.
Keep in touch with your progress,
Ian
1043
« on: December 05, 2014, 11:26:48 AM »
I too had a NU rider policy, then went to Footman James who eventually hiked up the price, so I moved with Peter James after he left FJ. I pay £156 for 7 bikes including a 1500 'Wing. All on agreed value and totalling nearly £20k, unlimited mileage - but I am VERY old (66 next)
I also have a US import 400/4 included which I bought and registered 10 years ago - a very early one only about 500 numbers in from the start. The DVLA in their wisdom always went back to the beginning of the year on imports, so mine ended up with an M reg. 'Hoist with their own petard' it means it will be tax exempt from Jan 1st 2015 - a result!! I sold this bike to my cousin in Hull about 8 years ago, but bought it back very recently and I'm just tidying it up for next season. I've put my spare brand new Varnish blue tank and side panels on it, plus a brand new front mudguard I've had for 25 years - from DS for about £45 then!
1044
« on: November 19, 2014, 06:06:08 PM »
I seem to think Eastwood have a brushable/dippable material in different colours. Frost stock their stuff.
Ian
1045
« on: November 19, 2014, 09:29:10 AM »
Hi Drew,
If you refer to my much earlier reply, it would appear that you have come to the correct point, in that the blade does indeed stick up. As I said, I don't have the exact measurement as I don't have an engine at that stage at the moment. I ALWAYS use Honda bits (as long as they are available) but I use a wooden dowel to compress the blade via the top bracket, so that I don't put unnecessary axial load on the fairly small threads - the bolts are OK, but they are into the much softer alloy casting. The other thing I didn't say was that I also overhaul the pivoting tensioner arm if it's been damaged/jammed by a flapping chain (I wrote an article for VJMC TANSHA on doing that)
I know you had to part the crankcases apart again after missing that starter gear lockwasher so you are now very familiar with the set up.
You will now know that the front of the chain will always be in tension as the crank drags the camshaft around, but the rear will have a correctly tensioned curve in it, produced by the bend in the blade, assisted by the 2 concentric springs - it's a good enough system, as long as maintenence is carried out correctly and after you have spent all of this time and money, I'm sure you will continue to look after it. I will measure my next engine, which is nearing completion with all genuine parts - to act as a reference.
1046
« on: November 12, 2014, 09:23:39 AM »
Yep,
definitely one for the archive - we should have a page of these tips and simple special tools which have been made to get around a problem (no, not a 2lb hammer!) As you say Ash, editors occasionally make a complete mess of articles sent in and they often loose the meaning by leaving bits out.
Right, off now to finish making that device for removing Boy Scouts from Girl Guides' knickers (can I say that? I might get a smack on the head from that Nurse!)
Ian
1047
« on: November 10, 2014, 12:24:51 PM »
Looks interesting, I'll wait till you've tried it!  and reported back. Delivery to Orkney might be a challenge though, Cheers, Ian
1048
« on: November 10, 2014, 10:29:28 AM »
Hi Ash,
It's the Surfex HD cleaner I used at (80 deg C) for around 45 mins. The timer on my unit only goes to 30 mins which allowed me to have a look at that point and punch in another 15.
They don't come out like new, ie still some tarnishing here and there, but ALL of the crap is gone and after sorting out my petrol tap it runs like it should. They dry almost instantly on removal and then I spray them with Wurth HHS2000 and wipe off.
When I contacted Pete Hamber to ask if they had a specific carb cleaner, they don't, as the chemicals necessary are not to his liking. He recommended Surfex and even at 5% with water it does the job. I didn't want to send 'difficult to replace' parts away for cleaning and like to be in control of my resto jobs
Regards,
Ian.
1049
« on: November 07, 2014, 09:11:52 AM »
Hello and a very warm (read wet today) welcome from Orkney,
We were up there this year with a Mini Clubman Estate at your fabulous Classic motor show - a must for all other forum members! We'll be back in 2016 with something different. You have an unbelievable collection of very interesting stuff in Shetland and now they have a 400/4 to admire. My tastes are similar and I've been working on a long overdue Norton Model 50, plus my 400/4 and a few others besides. I have BSA's too and you will no doubt know of C and D Autos - I used to collect my stuff from them in Acocks Green before the Old Man passed away, now just done by post.
Best Regards,
Ian
1050
« on: November 02, 2014, 06:21:41 PM »
Hi,
if you are absolutely confident that the lower end of the blade is seated correctly in the U shaped block in the tensioner arm and that block is fitted and seated correctly, then the blade will stick up (not sure exactly how much as I haven't accurately measured a new one recently) The next stage is to fit the top cap and press it down to put the curve into the blade to push against the chain (I usually use a wooden dowel for pushing as screwdrivers often slip) It's now relatively easy to fit the high tensile bolts - and I always loctite those. Then you can release the tensioner bolt to take up any slack. It will still need further adjustment when the engine is running.
Are you using new parts?
Let us know how you get on
Ian
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