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Messages - Rolfbulmer
16
« on: June 07, 2022, 09:10:21 AM »
Thanks for all your comments.
I think the T-bolt fitted is not original as it had a yoke fitted to it and no torque arm when I got the bike. I suspect the previous owner was going to make his own torque arm using the yoke to provide the slight movement required. I am going to buy a T-bolt and fit this, I think this will then be the right size.
I believe the correct installation method is: rubber washer, torque arm, plain washer up to shoulder of bolt, nut, r-pin.
17
« on: June 06, 2022, 09:41:28 PM »
Thanks Oddjob,
The rubber washer is brand new from David Silver.
Its not play on the brake plate bolt, but play in the torque arm. See photo attached....
I wonder if the T-bolt is too long? Do you have any idea how long they should be please.
18
« on: June 06, 2022, 08:25:19 PM »
I am in the process of fitting the rear brake stay arm and have a few questions please;
1. Where the stay arm is connected to the brake end should it be free to move? I inserted the T-shape shoulder bolt, then the rubber washer, then the stay arm, then a washer that slides over the bolt threads but not onto the shoulder, then the nut. When all in place there is approximately 5mm of lateral movement of the stay arm. Is this OK? Seems excessive to me in my ignorance.
2. Where the stay arm attaches under the swing arm, should this be tight and no free play?
Thanks in anticipation.
19
« on: May 12, 2022, 08:53:19 AM »
Thanks delta rider.
Just to clarify please, when testing the ‘primary’ circuit do you put one lead on the black/ white cable and the other on either blue or yellow (depending on which coil s being tested).
Thanks.
20
« on: May 12, 2022, 08:47:06 AM »
Thanks guys. Just what I needed, a clear set of instructions. I am looking forward to giving it a go.
21
« on: May 11, 2022, 10:03:16 PM »
Thanks k2-k6.
I will certainly give that a try.
22
« on: May 11, 2022, 10:01:08 PM »
Thanks odd job.
Simple lad that I am could you explain exactly how to do this with a multi meter please.
23
« on: May 11, 2022, 09:02:47 PM »
So I have attempted to repair my ignition coils following the repair tutorial from Ash.
Is there an idiots guide (keep it simple for me please) how they can be tested please?
24
« on: May 11, 2022, 08:50:09 PM »
Hi guys,
So my bike currently has no battery, ignition switch or power. But, I want to check the ignition timing and was wondering if it is in any way possible to do this without any ignition or power.
25
« on: May 03, 2022, 10:25:28 PM »
Yes, I was referring to the leads coming off the coils. Thanks for the tips.
26
« on: May 03, 2022, 02:14:55 PM »
Ok, I am going to try the repair option.
Any tips please on how to replace the LT leads also.
27
« on: April 30, 2022, 10:33:28 PM »
I am at the same point too. My coils ht leads look like they have been ripped out and thrown away - not with bike when I got it.
Cost of resin plus HT leads and plugs brings it to the point where new may be cheaper.
Just not sure what to do.......
28
« on: April 29, 2022, 12:39:15 PM »
Hi guys,
A question please:
I require a set of ignition coils, do I go for second hand oem for about £50 or do I go for new replacement equivalent ranging from £50 to £80.
Any help, advice appreciated thanks.
29
« on: April 27, 2022, 01:23:04 PM »
Thanks Trigger. Nice to know I've not done something stupid.
30
« on: April 27, 2022, 12:39:09 PM »
Hi Guys,
I have fitted my exhausts which are 2 modified 2 into 1 exhausts. I think they have been modified from the originals.
I have cleaned out the exhaust ports thoroughly, removed the old gaskets and fitted new ones.
The collars have been cleaned and fitted in the correct orientation, BUT, when I tighten up the collar clamps they do not sit flush onto the cylinder head - they sit approximately 2mm to 3mm off. Photo attached.
Everything is clean and sits nicely, nothing was forced into position, it all looked good.
Could any one advise if this is correct, acceptable, or have I missed something.
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