This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Messages - MikeSB6
1
« on: June 04, 2018, 05:47:59 PM »
Well, thanks very much for the info., I'll investigate......
Cheers, MikeJ
2
« on: June 02, 2018, 02:57:26 PM »
Hello, thanks for the tip (?) about the gasket, yes getting the sprocket on the cam was a push,
Oddly enough, I turned the engine over again a couple of times to check, and the chain has loosened off to where it should be! Could the chain have seated onto the tensioner roller or something?
Cheers, MikeJ
3
« on: June 02, 2018, 02:11:01 PM »
Hello, it looks like the lower one, photos on the way,
Many thanks MikeJ
4
« on: June 02, 2018, 01:40:10 PM »
I'll get my son to photo the chain when he surfaces. Are there any defining differences between the chains? The one fitted has waisted links if that helps,
Cheers, MikeJ
5
« on: June 02, 2018, 01:00:12 PM »
Hello, I just like being mysterious!
The cam chain box is long gone, but the receipt says 14401410003P 68119094 DID. I bought the engine s/h from America, so don't know it's history, but the camchain guide looks like a K6 (ie. a longer 'tang') and it's a K6 engine, although may have been worked on previously. The engine was really corroded on two cylinders, beyond reclaim, so I bought the replacement barrel and pistons as a s/h set . It's an early barrel as it doesn't have the recesses for the stud seals at the cylinder head joint. I've fitted a new camchain and tensioner with rollers. The head was also replaced as one spark plug was 'welded' in by corrosion.
Cheers, MikeJ
6
« on: June 02, 2018, 11:44:31 AM »
The cam guide which came with the K6 engine,
Cheers, MikeJ
7
« on: June 02, 2018, 09:43:21 AM »
Hello, it was an endless chain,
Cheers, MikeJ
P.S. I've just counted the links and there are 94. The engine is standard (although it's fitted with a K2 barrel) and the chain fits well on the upper sprocket so it looks like it's the correct chain.
8
« on: June 02, 2018, 09:39:23 AM »
Hello- on the receipt it said 94 but I haven't actually counted yet, unfortunately, I don't still have the box
Cheers, Mike
9
« on: June 02, 2018, 07:37:59 AM »
Hello, thanks for the reply, it's DID,
Cheers, MikeJ
10
« on: June 01, 2018, 03:39:28 PM »
Hello,
I've just fitted a new camchain to the CB750K6. It was from Dave Silver so should be o.k., but it seems very tight, even without the camchain tensioner fitted. The engine turns over O.K. but I'm surprised the camchain is this tight- is this normal for a new chain? If I move the camchain tensioner arm with my thumb it moves about 1/8".
Cheers, MikeJ.
11
« on: May 02, 2018, 01:52:58 PM »
O.K. Mr Davo,
thanks very much for the tip,
Cheers, MikeJ
12
« on: May 02, 2018, 12:48:58 PM »
Hello Mr Davo,
thanks for the reply, but I'm comparing the clearance on the second bearing from the left (2x.045mm=.09mm) with that on the third bearing (1x.045mm), and I'm using the same parameters for both bearings, so the same problem applies i.e. one bearing has twice the clearance of the other, even though the crank pin on the one with greater clearance is larger,
Cheers, MikeJ
P.S. Has anyone tried reclaiming a CB750 crank using say spraying or welding and was it expensive?
13
« on: May 02, 2018, 11:54:32 AM »
Hello, I'm currently checking the main bearing sizes for the K6 engine which I'm restoring. The main bearing crankshaft pin second from the alternator measures 35.985 in the mic. and the crankcase sizes are all B. With plastigage, the clearance on this bearing measures approx 2 x .045mm using a black bearing shell, i.e. the plastigage is only flattened to half the width of the .045 measurement i.e. about .09mm.
The mainshaft pin third from the alternator measures 35.980 in the mic. but .045 clearance with the plastigage. Given that this pin is smaller, why does the plastigage read half the clearance when the main bearing crankcase opening is the same size and the pin is smaller? Is this due to the B crankcase measurement having a tolerance? I've checked the mic. against its standard 25mm test piece and it seems o.k. Also, The Haynes manual says that the limit on the crankshaft is 35.94mm but bearings aren't available for this size. Are thicker bearings shells available? I've checked with black, which are the thickest but the clearance seems excessive. The crank looks in good condition with no bluing or pitting. I'm tightening the crankcase bolts to the torque spec.
Any help most appreciated,
Cheers, MikeJ
14
« on: January 30, 2018, 03:04:18 PM »
Hello, and thanks for the replies,
on second thoughts, I can probably get away with spacing the sprocket and offsetting the rim, as the measured offset is only about 6mm, which will save quite a bit of work. I've checked the clearances and doing it this way should allow fitting of the hub,
Cheers, MikeJ
15
« on: January 27, 2018, 08:05:39 AM »
Hello Folks,
I'm thinking of fitting an accessory swinging arm into my cafe racer project and have one available. Unfortunately, it's for a Z900/1000 and is narrower than the standard K arm, so when the hub is fitted, the bearing housing on the sprocket carrier pushes the hub about 1/2" to the right so it doesn't align centrally with the swinging arm. However, about 1/2" of the housing is for the bearing retainer plate and the oil seal, so I was wondering about machining off this section of the housing to allow the hub to move to the left. The bearing is retained from coming out of the hub by the axle spacer and I could use a sealed bearing. Has anyone done this before, or is it completely bonkers?
Cheers, MikeJ
|
Show Posts