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Messages - deltarider
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1306
« on: June 23, 2015, 04:03:24 PM »
The top yoke isn't the same as the 500K1, more like the 550 as it uses the smaller fork clamp bolts. Well spotted (as captain Mainwaring would say). The 7mm clamp bolts (instead of the 8mm) is one of the things shared with the CB5 50K2. No need for these D shaped washers anymore. The center grease niple (that I hate btw) is another thing. Why you'd fit a 18" front wheel is beyond me but I suppose it might handle ok. I didn't, he, the Italian did. Never knew the K2 had the throttle cruise control arrangement, looks like 550 switchgear as well. Correct but I doubt it was ment as a cruise control. One thing I forgot to mention looking at the vid was the chain guard, I always hated that big old black plastic chainguard on the 500 so I adapted the chrome 550 one to fit, not that hard really, just a new hole and tap the new thread. Ah, you like shiny things. Me? Mwah. See below. Surprised they kept the fork gaiters as the bike looks better without them, like the 550F, ok they serve a very useful function but they look dowdy and they do tend to mask you've blown a fork seal for a long while. All in all I prefer the naked look of the 550F but that's just me . I disagree here with you. I'm not particular fond of shiny parts but prefer the classic look of these wonderful gaiters. How many can say that with 134.000 kms they have not changed one forkseal yet. Thanks to them gaiters.
1307
« on: June 23, 2015, 02:29:27 PM »
what Honda used on the K2 version It's amazing how many of the mods you described are standard on my 1976 CB500K2 (ED), which btw differs from the USA 500K2 (1973). Mine has the bigger clocks, the safety switch, 3 fuses and shares many things with the CB5 50K2 (1976) that was not exported to Europe. Here's a good vid of mine (not really mine, this is owned by an Italian, but I have the same). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ux89PppUsxUStupid enough I left the grabrail (changed for a luggagerack) at my former address. So stupid, because that grabrail gave the bike that slick appearance. Mine has done 100.000 kms more than his but idles much nicer. Note that our Italian friend didn't fasten the front axle clamps the right way. Also I wouldn't rev it that high without load. Mine is original except for the Koni's in the rear, forsaid luggage rack and a set of Voxbell horns that has a loud and distinctive sound.
1308
« on: June 23, 2015, 07:15:42 AM »
and that means a mixture of the 500 and the 550 Could you give some details?
1309
« on: June 21, 2015, 02:05:48 PM »
I seem to remember 7mm but I don't know from what, so...
1310
« on: June 21, 2015, 07:54:32 AM »
Its a myth that only certain parts of the carb work at certain revs--they may have MORE affect at certain revs but fuel and/or air is going through all the pathways all the time True, that's why I always look at these diagrams that show from how much throttle what works, with scepsis.
1311
« on: June 20, 2015, 07:00:28 PM »
Just curious. What's the stamped on number on your carbs?
1312
« on: June 20, 2015, 05:43:39 PM »
Maybe first try running a tank with added an additive like Tunap or Forté (don't know what brands you have in the UK). I used it years ago and it did miracles. Might help and it's easy to do.
1313
« on: June 20, 2015, 11:51:40 AM »
Always start with the simplest and check the ignition (all items) and doublecheck before you move to the carbs. What plugs do you use and what's the gap? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t3cuvGVwnjILeft condensor (1+4) is bad, right condensor (2+3) is good. Condensors seem to go bad when warm. Floatlevels have to be checked. Where's your CB500 from? Yanks had the needles in 4th (combined with the airscrew 2 turns out, at least that's what an American Honda booklist says). In Europe we had the needles in 3rd and airscrews 1 turn out. What main jets are in? Is there a cover over the airfiltercase? A forgotten cloth?
1314
« on: June 20, 2015, 11:16:42 AM »
First things first. Sufficient fuelflow? Floatlevels OK? Original airbox and airfilter? Any airleaks?
On the K3s the idle jets are notorious for clogging. Wouldn't touch the needles.
1315
« on: June 10, 2015, 03:23:20 PM »
If the bearing retainer isn't tight then you will get sprocket float as the entire cush drive is moving around, best get that sorted ASAP as the chain may come off if it gets to a certain point. Thanks again. So the retainer needs to lie flush (is that the word?)
1316
« on: June 10, 2015, 07:41:21 AM »
Deltarider, try removing the rear bearing retainer on your wheel, the sprocket carrier is meant to have some grease on the surface where it meets the wheel boss, the reason for this is because as the dampers which cushion the sprocket carriers are crushed under acceleration etc the carrier itself moves very slightly forward, if there is no lubricant between the 2 surfaces you get wear, this could be where the metal dust is coming from, if there is enough wear the carrier will start to fluctuate and the sprocket will start to oscillate, meaning more chain wear and noise. This could well be the case. A long time ago I renewed the rearwheel bearings and I can't remember... that bearing retainer is supposed to fasten that flange to the hub, right? There's also a possibility I haven't screwed that retainer in all the way. Anyway, I suppose I have to look for another flange. I presume you've still got the sprocket dish fitted? Yes, does that play a role here?
1317
« on: June 09, 2015, 07:12:12 AM »
I read this thread with interest. On my CB500 I discovered there's some play that causes the part (flange final drive?) on which the rearsprocket sits to move a mm or so out of the hub when rotated and because it is irregular it causes a not nice running drivechain. I haven't figured out what exactly is the origin. I seem to remember having seen that the collar rear wheel side was irregularly worn (but... because of what???) and having seen some iron dust there. Could that collar somehow be the culprit. Is there a possibility to help this with a washer somewhere? I think about 50% of the bikes I own(ed), mostly the cb500 and 550s had some sort of gap issue on the rear wheel and swing arm but beyond bunging in the odd washer to keep it all alighned I have never let it bother me, often the swing arm flexes in a few mm when I tighten the rear spindle, as long as it ends up in line the bike handles fine, passes mot's etc, if fussed about the washers being unsightly, measure the spacers plus washers, get someone with a lathe to turn up a spacer the right length I wonder if Matthewmosse recognises my problem. Dealers are not much help: one said there should be a third bearing somewhere and another I talked to on the phone said I needed a new flange and they're bloody expensive. Help is appreciated.
1318
« on: June 02, 2015, 08:58:31 AM »
Before you do anything, verify your tachometer is telling the truth. I remember I was once working on a CB550K3 trying to get a nice idle. In despair I reached for my automotive DMM to soon find out that a true 1000 rpm (DMM) showed 1400 on the Honda (I believe it was ND) tachometer.
I do not recommend idles below 1000 rpm. You want that oil up there.
1319
« on: May 07, 2015, 07:22:47 AM »
Possible air leaks between carbs and head? O-rings between head and intake manifold are always suspect.
1320
« on: April 11, 2015, 09:20:23 AM »
Makes sense. Less unsprung weight.
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