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Messages - Oddjob
Pages: 1 ... 8 9 [10] 11 12 ... 287
136
« on: January 02, 2024, 11:14:52 PM »
137
« on: January 02, 2024, 11:06:41 PM »
I asked when I was buying them Al, not sure if this was the correct answer but in reply to my question about curves and the different letters that they were, he replied these were B curve and that denoted the tripping time, is that correct. As far as I could gather B is ok for domestic use with the higher letters required for commercial use etc.
From what I've read they trip at 3-5 times the current (In), so a 16a would trip at 48-80a, does that sound right?
138
« on: January 02, 2024, 08:55:32 PM »
I was reading somewhere recently which said the original rings and stuff in carbs were viton based.
139
« on: January 02, 2024, 08:53:04 PM »
Ahhh, that would explain it. The OP said spot the fault and then said the black one had a front spindle which protruded. Gold one, spindle fitted correctly, look how the end of the spindle protrudes. Nut part on the inside.  Black one, spindle right down inside the nut and the nut part on the outside. 
140
« on: January 02, 2024, 08:51:47 PM »
Yeah, mine are also each to their own spur.
I've ordered some 20a DP switch spur sockets, this time without a fuse.
You are correct BTW Al, as I suspected you would be, looking it up on the web the advise was anything rated above 3Kw should have it's own spur etc, as it turns out the rest are all 2.6kwh heaters so that doesn't apply.
The general consensus on the web from various electricians is to use either a 20a or 16a MCB, I've opted for RCBO instead of MCB as I understand they are even better. The existing fuses are all 16a MCBs so I opted for the 16a RCBO instead of the 20a RCBO.
Any thoughts?
I'd rather you say something than nothing, I'm not a novice at electrics but up to date regs aren't my forte.
141
« on: January 02, 2024, 06:35:01 PM »
Yes Al, I have access to those or should I say I have mates who have them. I intend to ask one to pop over and check my work after it's done. TBH I thought the 13amp fuse would be sufficient Al, you used to get 3.4kwh fires running off a 13amp plug. I'd prefer for the fuse to blow before it starts melting the contacts inside the socket, saying that I'd say the RCB would trip long before that happened. However if you think a 20amp one would be better I can do that easily. How many spare outlets for fuses do you think I have?  I'm all electric, no gas at all. The main fuse board is bloody huge already and they are all taken up now. TBH the 24h side just charges a small battery for the LCD panel and powers the convector heater fitted to the inside in case the heating charge in the bricks runs low and the heater feels it needs to boost the temp. Hopefully that should rarely be on. That's my understanding of it anyway, I don't think it has the ability to power the elements inside the bricks.
142
« on: January 02, 2024, 04:50:13 PM »
143
« on: January 02, 2024, 04:45:31 PM »
Just to clarify, we are talking about the black 500 not the gold one. A look at the gold one, from the nearside, shows that if fitted correctly the spindle actually extends just outside of the flange on the nut.
144
« on: January 02, 2024, 04:39:06 PM »
No it's not the spindle being fitted wrong Ash, it's the nut on the end, it's back to front, the nut part fits inside the fork slider and he's got it to the outside, that means the spindle becomes too long and hence why it's sticking out of the O/S fork slider.
Part 18 in your pic, nut on the inside, if you look at a pic of the bike from the nearside you can see the nut on the outside and a close up shows the spindle is very deep inside when it should sit almost flush with the nut.
Odd about the K3, it shares loads of parts with the F2, you'd think if they changed the F2 part they'd also change the K3 one as well.
145
« on: January 02, 2024, 04:34:48 PM »
The special tool is 07709-0010001 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/394824658021 or there is a Motion Pro alternative as the original special tool is very hard to find these days, Motion Pro 08-0087. I've just bought 2 of the Motion Pro ones, they don't export outside the states BTW.
146
« on: January 02, 2024, 04:32:00 PM »
Those look to me to be screwdriver marks, most likely because the slide jammed in the carbs, maybe the carbs were all gummed up with old petrol and unlike the fours those aren't able to be lifted mechanically. So they inserted a screwdriver from front and back and tried to lever them out. May explain why the carb bowls are so clean, it's been cleaned out before.
IIRC if you need to replace the diaphragms, the slide comes with it. So no real harm done, check the carb body for similar marks though.
147
« on: January 02, 2024, 04:10:20 PM »
Yeah, I looked at the F1 book Ash, TBH I didn't expect the F2 to be different but it clearly is.
You could be right as the F2 spindle should be the same as the K3 spindle and that has that odd looking end on it. Still fitted wrong though and needs to be corrected asap.
148
« on: January 02, 2024, 04:06:06 PM »
Yes Ted, the peg would need to be removed IF the bars don't have the hole for it to locate into, otherwise the switch won't shut with the screws. The pegs are splined into place but will pull out with a little persuasion. Not only are the pegs there to stop the switch rotating and possibly the wires being shorted against the holes in the bars (the edges of these holes can be quite sharp) but they also locate the switchgear in the correct location, like a goldilocks solution, not to far in, not to far out but just right.
I have some genuine bars off ATM Dave if you need measurements. As per the goldilocks idea, they must be drilled in the exact position needed for location of the switchgear.
149
« on: January 02, 2024, 03:59:56 PM »
According to the CMS parts book Ash the 500 and the 550 both use the 750 front spindle, 300 middle part number.
For a minute there I was thinking you were saying the 500 was a solid bar with the 550 being hollow, couldn't remember if that was true or not so looked it up.
150
« on: January 02, 2024, 03:51:24 PM »
I use the copper core of some 2.5mm T&E cable, just strip off the insulation or use the earth part of the wire. A little hook in the end and you can slide it inside the back of one of the bullet connectors. I tape up the rest of the bullets etc to reduce them twisting around and jamming inside the bars. Some silicon oil doesn't hurt to get them all to slide easier as well. If it jams don't tug, just pull it back and try again. As you're fitting a new switch the wiring cover will be pristine but most are split etc and they have a tendency to grab, which always makes me wonder what are they grabbing onto, it's inside a tube for gods sake. If the covering is split either replace with new or tape up.
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