Honda-SOHC

It was simply advertising.

A friend of the seller made a bid of - say 6000 - and they simply waited.
No one did a bid that high so the seller didn't sell.(Well he did, but to his friend).
And in the end they both tell ebay that no transaction has been done (for any reason whatsoever) so they don't have to pay the selling fees.

And in about a couple of months the seller puts it up for sale again.

Thats 'working' ebay in your favour.

I dont think DK's would be bothering with that. Pretty sure this is sold.

Not sure my fix was what you are looking for as it required a fair pile of welding. Easy for me to do as I have a TIG welder in the workshop. You can see the results on this thread   http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,8188.msg53869.html#msg53869  It wasn't a bought in package, all home made. Works very well though.

The reason I didn't go with the bought in kit was that I couldn't find one that retains the triangular cross bracing. They say it doesn't need it, but in reality that triangular piece adds a lot of torsional strength to stop the steering head rotating in relation to the swingarm pivot under cornering load. They say racers run these frames without the bottom tube in (to ease engine access at the track), but race tracks don't have British Gas road reapairs and general maintenance neglect mid corner. Honda didn't fit the bracing for a laugh, its there for a reason.

I would be hesitant to fit one of those kits without the bracing.

Wow. I haven't seen it that cheap in years £3.18p each if you buy 12. Good find James. This is the stuff to use guys, and don't forget the cart load of patience.

Only just spotted this thread Ash, don't know how I missed it. Took me a while to read through the first four pages but up to speed now.

My 350F forks were rusted at the top same as yours but the working area was perfect. I just cleaned the rust off and treated them with a rust eater/preventer (cant just remember what its called, will check) and put them back together. That's how Honda made them in the first place, chrome was very expensive back then.

The bearing retainers in the wheels are a real pig to get undone, your going to destroy the retainer whatever you do. If you check my 350F thread it shows on there how I got them out. It was basically 3 days of heating them up and blasting with PlusGas whilst still hot, then soaking them again after it cooled. It more or less went on its own after that. But it 'picked up' on its way out, so it was back a bit forwards a bit for ages until it came free. It left the very fine threads in the hub damaged, these had to be cleaned up at the machine shop.

Will be following the thread with interest now I've found it.

Good luck with the build.

If they have a deep shiny finish like a mudguard they haven't been Hard Chromed. If they've done decorative chrome they wont last even 2 years as its a different thing all together.

I've had quite a few done over the years, usually by Philpotts but also others, and they always look like yours in the picture.

Even Honda's originals are not truly hard plated and wont last as long. With real Hard Plating have a look in 30 years and they will be just like they were done yesterday.

How did you find genuine F2 carb rubbers. That's got to be the find of the century.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Spent Sunday afternoon attempting to sort the throttle cable problems. Along the way I have found a problem with the carb re-assembly.

I guess this should be problem 10 on the list then.

This ones home grown, but not surprising as carbs are my weak point. Was hoping I had it right first time on this one. Anybody that followed my 750F2 build will know that the carbs on that were on and off so often I could do it in my sleep.

Anyway, for some strange reason the carbs are not closing correctly. Meaning that the cable quadrant is not rotating back fully. Not sure what it is, so rebuild number 2 is about to start. Whilst I'm doing it I am going to change the worn quadrant for a spare I have. That should correct the problem of the cable not being retained.

[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

You can just see in the picture that the throttle stop screw is right out and there is still an gap of about 10mm. This has the effect of making cable 'A' appear too long, and cable 'B' appear too short. The over-return stop is also miles off the quadrant. Not doubt when I get back in there it will become obvious whats wrong.

Second problem with the carbs. Although they were carefully cleaned and rebuilt with all new parts, 3 out of the 4 carbs are deluging petrol out of the overflows.

Engine start is now put back again. Never mind, nearly through the extra challenges now. I would rather have everything done correctly before I attempt to start it.

Cheers all.

Maybe an air leak at the carb mounting rubbers. That always leans the mixture and makes it a pig to start. No evidence, just a thought.