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Messages - andy_c101
91
« on: April 11, 2011, 10:51:29 PM »
K2-K6 could be on the right track.
I had a previous bike, and only when i was working in the last few minutes of daylight did I notice blue sparks jumping from plug cap to cylinderhead. It turned out to be the plug cap; the internal spring clip, that clips onto the plug, was badly corroded and cracked.
92
« on: March 05, 2011, 09:09:52 AM »
I find it best to leave the rubber air inlets completely off; then mount the carbs to the engine cyl.hd. alloy inlets first.
Soak the ruber inlets in a jug of hot/boiling water to soften them (at this time of year), then with either cyl 2 or 3 first, carefully scrunch the rubber intake and 'just manipulate' it over the carb intake throat, then onto the air filter manifold box.
It is very 'fiddly' but you will develop the technique.
Sometimes having a BLUNT screw driver or narrow spatulata often helps.
Good luck
Oh and on completion.....apply bandaids to knuckles!
(I'm sure there's over threads on this on here somewhere if you search.)
93
« on: February 02, 2011, 09:39:07 PM »
I think the company that stocks cb sohc carb kits & jets etc is:- Sirius Consolidated Inc. in Canada. http://www.siriusconinc.comThey are sometimes on Ebay too. Andy C
94
« on: January 30, 2011, 09:34:14 PM »
Mick, You have my sympathy. Carbs have been my biggest problem. But to answer your question, yes the pilot jet (sometimes called slow jet) should have a clear thro' hole. I assume you removed them from the carb body (i didnt even do that at first! Doh) this is what I did: http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php?topic=3283.0I had them soaked in Redex for a week, & then used some cellulose thinners for good measure; I very carefully used a single strand copper wire to ease the residue/gunk out. It made a huge improvement. Good luck Andy
95
« on: January 11, 2011, 09:23:41 PM »
I'd just like to say to anyone starting out on refurbing their old SOHC4,
- 'heed the advice of the wise and learned folk in here, and make sure you THOROUGHLY clean your carbs!'
Me, I just dived in and to strip and clean the carbs. I cured the needle valves [http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php?topic=2681.15]
only to find that (whilst making some improvement) only a marginal improvement on engine running was found.
- tickover was still awful; nothing less than 2500rpm if I was lucky! She was running on a knife-edge, less choke - she stalled, a little more revs raced upto 4kprm.
Over the xmas hols I spent time trawling thro this forum and SOHC.net, that for my CB550K3 has the Keihin PD46 type carbs with press-fit Slow Jets.
- I now realise that on me first strip/cleaning the carbs I had not extracted the press-fit "Slow Jet" ...Doh!
At the time I was afraid of the unknown, & feared I would damage something beyond repair, so they stayed-put.
From my research it became apparent that the Slow jets (or Pilot Jets?) are critical to smooth tickover.
Conclusion: they had to come out.
I decided to drain the petrol, and refil with Redex, and leave to stand for a week.
Then drained the Redex, removed & stripped the carbs.
(Over the past 12 months I've become well practiced at removing & refitting the carbs. First time it must have taken a whole weekend with several scraped knuckles along the way! Now, knowing all the tricks, its down to 40 minutes off, and an hour back on! Easy, when you know how.)
To extract the jets I was concerned about damaging the jets, so I decided to use my heat gun (on mid-setting, not full) to heat up the carb body; I wrapped some emery cloth around the jet, then using pliers, I firmly gripped the jet through the emery cloth, twisting and pulling the jety she came free quite cleanly.
Every Slow Jet had residue deposits all over them! No wonder I had problems.
- the photos illustrate my findings
Well then all back together. Already done valve clearances, point gaps and timing.
Refuelled her, set half choke, ignition on, primed the kick start to the point of compression...
and kicked.....she fired first time.
Ran on part choke for a few minutes, but hey! she then settled down to around 1200 to 1500rpm.
Yo! Result.
& on Sunday, the gods were looking down on me, the sun came out so managed a short spinout. Magic!
(- just a slight flat spot around 4-5krpm will be the next job to sort)
The moral: Research & Persistence is key.
sorry to bore you all , but I just had to share my story.
Andy C
96
« on: December 30, 2010, 09:59:53 AM »
Hi, I had the same issue. I really wanted to retain the 4-4 exhaust look of the K3. My down pipes were ok-ish, but the baffles were COMPLETELY shot. So.... I decided to saw-off the (welded) original baffles, leaving me with just the four downpipes (in reasonable condition, but not 'show' condition). I then bought a set of four universal aftermarket, 'Dunstall look-a-likes', from Bitz-for-bikes : Chrome Universal Silencer [HL554998] http://www.bitzforbikes.co.uk/Chrome_Universal_Silencer_-ref-2978-116.htmlI used exhaust clamps and exhaust gum-gum sealant to seal the joint between pipe and silencer. The silencer mounting bracket was a bit fiddly, but did successfullymanage to bolt to the oroiganl hangers off the rear foot pegs. The silencers don't have the flat-sided inner face (for the lower two pipes to clear the rear axle), so they have to flare out an extra half inch or so to clear axle nuts. - It is a job that takes some patience to get the fit right, and to seal the pipe connection, but is worth it. & I'm pleased with the overall result. I have thought about getting new s/steel custom made down-pipes, - but I'm still saving up for those, & it may take a while!
97
« on: May 03, 2010, 11:28:28 AM »
I do luv CB550 cafe racer styling.
My CB is all too standard to be converted to CR-styling.
-One day I'll find a CB550 cafe racer project for myself, meanwhile I'll admire the work of yours and others.
Engine casings look very tidy. The black & alloy engine & wheels look great.
Did you bead blast, & then paint?
What exhaust system is that?
Well done, & keep up the good work.
AC
98
« on: April 26, 2010, 08:06:11 PM »
Thanks for sharing your expeiences. I've forked out for the 530 o-ring chain-n-sprockets now, so I'm going to just keep a very close eye on it. But yes I think the replacement will be a standard non-o-ring. - I seem to remember those were fine ffor a goodly period, back in 'the olden days'! PS: She's still free from oil drips; -the gear change seal did the trick!  Andy
99
« on: April 22, 2010, 10:34:21 PM »
New seal on the gear change shaft seems to have cured it!
The oil leaked rom the gear change shaft; the first photo shows the oil about to drip.
On removing the cover, again the oil was coming from the gear change shaft seal, marked "A" on second photo.
Main drive sprocket shaft seal seemed to be perfectly dry ( & now signs of oil flinging up&around fromthe rotating shaft, tends to confirm it).
But what I also noticed to the front of the drive sprocket, was a rubbing mark on the casing; ("B" on the photo)
The chain rivets have been just kissing the case.
I now realise that having used a modern 530 o-ring chain, that it is wider than the original seal-less chains!
I don't know if anyone else has seen that problem when fitting modern sealed chains to old Jap bikes?
I've decided that it isn't going to get any worse; I have inspected the inside chain rivets and side-plates, but they all look fine).
I've done 10miles around the block to test for oil leaks, & she seems to be free of leaks!
- Yessss! result.
So no need to worry about then main drive seal for now.
Andy C
100
« on: April 19, 2010, 09:32:40 PM »
Help! CB550 rebuild just developed a leak! Anyone know if it is possible to remove & replace the shaft seals for the final drive sprocket shaft & the gear change shaft WITHOUT dismantling the engine/gearbox!!! Q: (once the cover plate & sprocket is off) Do I just punch a hole into each seal & then gouge it out with something pointy? 
101
« on: April 14, 2010, 05:03:39 PM »
I've got the opposite problem!
I've got four-into-four universal silencers (dunstall look-alikes) & she's running lean, & feels breatheless at 60mph.
I was thinking of trying to raise the jet needles in the Keihin carbs to richen the mix.
Anyone tried that? or is it case of neeing larger jets (currently size 90 main jets).
102
« on: April 14, 2010, 04:56:28 PM »
As I said, I didnt use any washer & my steering head bearings are ust fine.
104
« on: April 10, 2010, 08:08:30 PM »
hi,
I can't give a definitive answer; all I can say is that having just done my 550k3 head bearings with taper rollers from (d/silver), I did NOT fit a dust seal.
I too had the same dilema. D/silvers couldnt give me a definite statement.
I tried using the original old Honda dust seal, but it just sqwuished out of shape, and was left fouling the taper rollers, so I had to extract the bearing again (a right pain!).
So once installed, I decided to apply a generous layer of grease under the lower end of taper roller bearing assembly to keep and water spray n dust out. I figured that as a low mileage fair weather rider (whimp, I know...) the bearing should be ok.
PS: with my aftermarket (d/silver) taper roller kit, it came with a thick (3-4mm?) washer. - Don't use that washer on the 550k3, I wasnt left with enough thread for the upper bearing retainer.
PPS; My headstock is now really solid, - much better than with the original balls.
Good luck.
Andy C
105
« on: April 09, 2010, 11:31:04 PM »
Yippeee!!! MOT'd today & Passed!!! Yo! open roads here I come, and the sun's come out too! & so everything in the world is just fine......  http://
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