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Doubt it, aparently bigger problem will be starting
As the new petrol has added oxygen. Do we need to enrich the mixture?Guessing raise the needle one groove. Maybe that is enough Or hotter running plug.7 to an 8.I would like comments from the clever guys.Those far knowledgeable than me.Thanks Sent from my SM-A750FN using Tapatalk
Personally I use Ethomix from Frost Restoration and I drain the fuel system before I lay my bike up for the winter. These additives only protect the metal parts so you also need to look for biofuel compatible rubber hoses too.
To comment on the mixture specifically;- Working with AFR (air fuel ratio) to hopefully give a concise view, petrol without the additional ethanol has a stoichiometric ratio (complete combustion of all fuel by ratio to air mix) of 14.7 to 1 , after which point there's too much air to match the fuel content. Most engines of the era we are concerned with don't run anywhere near that figure, more usually the standard jetting is more like 12.5 to 1 and richer than ideal. E10 fuel has an equivalent of 14.04 to 1 taking into account the mix of components. The mixture if just left alone clearly now has a position closer to the stoichiometric value ( effectively making the combustion process leaner with this fuel). A pragmatic approach is that the shift is just under 5%, and as the original factory jetting was running effectively too rich constantly, it's realistic to consider this as a desirable shift. It shouldn't, if the original setup is competent, give us any problems. But if you are concerned about it, a shift of one notch on the main jet needle could be assessed. I though favour changing the spark plug heat range by going upwards one (ngk numbering) so 7 to 8. I don't do this because of conventional reasons of "running hotter" that is often inaccurate when used to suggest this. I view it as the small resultant changes in effective jetting run a cleaner combustion process, and so reduces the demand for trying to keep the plug tip hot enough to make sure it doesn't foul.In other words, you can take advantage of the change if effective fuel ratio and run the combustion closer to optimum. An advantage of running a higher heat range plug is that it's more resistant to any affects of detonation (loss of control of the burn phase) and reduces the overall risk to the engine of consequence associated with this.I've been doing this with an old car engine for some years which we've used in France, and commonly on E10 without any problem. Closely related in metallurgical terms to these bikes ( all aluminium construction with pushed in steel barrels, two valve per cylinder, offset spark plug, 9.35 to 1 compression etc) and as some of the linked comments suggest, it does run more efficiently on this fuel. General setup has been good for measured emmisions too whether E10 or not.
Quote from: gtmdriver on July 05, 2020, 07:53:28 AMDo you know what biofuel compatible hose materials, apart from Viton, would be recommended and are readily available?Ian[/quotePersonally I use this.https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100-BIO-Fuel-Hose-Petrol-Pipe-Ethanol-Butanol-Methanol-Diesel-Cohline-R9-R6-R10/251182149018?hash=item3a7b9f6d9a:g:PNkAAMXQn11RffRU]
Do you know what biofuel compatible hose materials, apart from Viton, would be recommended and are readily available?Ian[/quotePersonally I use this.https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100-BIO-Fuel-Hose-Petrol-Pipe-Ethanol-Butanol-Methanol-Diesel-Cohline-R9-R6-R10/251182149018?hash=item3a7b9f6d9a:g:PNkAAMXQn11RffRU]
Personally I avoid regular fuel like the plague.... premium fuel for your classic is the easiest way to avoid 10% ethanol.....for the time being at least.