SOHC.co.uk Forums > Project Board
CB750 Barn find project - First Timer
Rob.b (Rob Birkett - RIP):
--- Quote from: Underdog1 on August 01, 2016, 02:34:07 PM ---Oooookay,
So a few bits arrived in the post today, my replacement ignition and remote tank which got me a little excited as finally i can see if this thing starts right?
So first thing i notice is in key position 1 i seem to have power, the neutral light comes on, if i press the horn i get a very weak sounding fart noise,no headlight and unfortunately I've already stripped off the brakes and rear light so can't check those right now. Key position 2 the neutral light goes out and the horn ceases to work so somethings going on there. The connectors that go into the ignition connector block short with each other mega easily but i made sure they weren't touching each other and still no luck. Electric start also didn't do anything.
Anyway i thought its worth trying to kick it anyway to see what happens, plumbed in my remote tank (credit to Jamesh_sussex for the link) and fuel just immediately pissed out of carb 1&2 from the areas circled. Haven't got my haynes manual to hand so apologies for the lack of technical terms (and knowledge hah).
is this likely to be stuck floats? Was hoping i could see if it would run first before rebuilding the carbs but looks like this is going to be my next job. Just want to hear the old gal growl :-[
--- End quote ---
Hi,
I'm pretty sure position 2 on the ignition switch is the parking lights ie. the front pilot light and rear tail light only, and nothing else..
if so you should be able to take the key out when its in position 2.
keep at it.
Underdog1:
--- Quote from: Rob.b on August 01, 2016, 03:11:33 PM ---
--- Quote from: Underdog1 on August 01, 2016, 02:34:07 PM ---Oooookay,
So a few bits arrived in the post today, my replacement ignition and remote tank which got me a little excited as finally i can see if this thing starts right?
So first thing i notice is in key position 1 i seem to have power, the neutral light comes on, if i press the horn i get a very weak sounding fart noise,no headlight and unfortunately I've already stripped off the brakes and rear light so can't check those right now. Key position 2 the neutral light goes out and the horn ceases to work so somethings going on there. The connectors that go into the ignition connector block short with each other mega easily but i made sure they weren't touching each other and still no luck. Electric start also didn't do anything.
Anyway i thought its worth trying to kick it anyway to see what happens, plumbed in my remote tank (credit to Jamesh_sussex for the link) and fuel just immediately pissed out of carb 1&2 from the areas circled. Haven't got my haynes manual to hand so apologies for the lack of technical terms (and knowledge hah).
is this likely to be stuck floats? Was hoping i could see if it would run first before rebuilding the carbs but looks like this is going to be my next job. Just want to hear the old gal growl :-[
--- End quote ---
Hi,
I'm pretty sure position 2 on the ignition switch is the parking lights ie. the front pilot light and rear tail light only, and nothing else..
if so you should be able to take the key out when its in position 2.
keep at it.
--- End quote ---
Yeah you're correctomundo, realised shortly after i posted ::)
Any idea how i get the bearing retainer off this side of the wheel hub?
Managed to get the other side off with a home made tool but not sure about this side..
hairygit:
There isn't one on the wheel that side, just a thick oil/grease seal. Try levering it out with a tyre lever or large screwdriver, a little at a time on opposite edges at a time. Try not to gouge the alloy of the hub as you do it. Or you can use the bearing to remove it by knocking it through from the other side.
MarkCR750:
Yes stuck floats, take the carbs off, take the float and float needle valve and jets out of carb no1 , the primary jet is pressed in, gently pull out with pliers, thoroughly blast out the passage ways and components with good quality carb cleaner, check the float needle seats for damage, check the black rubber tips on the float needles aren't worn, replace and do the same on the other 3 carbs, or send the carb bank off the NRP to have them ultrasonically cleaned and any worn components replaced, I did my own and they are fine but it's always down to personal choice and pocket.
http://nrp-carbs.co.uk/
Underdog1:
--- Quote from: hairygit on August 01, 2016, 04:58:20 PM ---There isn't one on the wheel that side, just a thick oil/grease seal. Try levering it out with a tyre lever or large screwdriver, a little at a time on opposite edges at a time. Try not to gouge the alloy of the hub as you do it. Or you can use the bearing to remove it by knocking it through from the other side.
--- End quote ---
Are you sure about that? I think its no. 4 on this picture in my haynes manual:
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page
Go to full version