Rightside Handlebar Switch 350/500

[watty51]

After doing some research on the topic I decided to buy a cb500 right side Handlebar switch. The wiring for the switch in the Clymer manual looks the same for both the cb350 and the cb500. Having marked up where all the connections from the old switch went , I went ahead and replaced it with a Reproduction Switch from DSS. Code Number 35300323671P.

The switch wires were all the same colours as the original one so plugged in to marked up cables.
Now the problem I have encountered is when the starter is pressed the engine will start with the kill switch in any of the 3 positions IE: off-on-off.

After a couple of nights trying to work it out and having examined the wiring diagrams again I have noticed one difference I missed. The emergency switch on the 350 wiring diagram has the switch arm attached to the KB contact whereas the 500 wiring diagram has the switch arm attached to the kw contact. ( see attachment photos) Will this make a difference to how the wiring should go or could it be possible the actual switch is faulty.

Good Luck

[watty51]

Some more pictures

[watty51]

Thanks for the reply oddjob.

I will do a check on the switch after work tonight.
Electrics are not my strongest point so what will the multimeter need to be set at.

Im presuming the black lead from the multimeter needs to go to the blk/white lead and the red lead from the multimeter needs to go to the black lead.

If the switch is found to be faulty what are DSS like for returning faulty items bearing in mind that pushing the switch cables
through the handlebars has marked the cable cover.

[mike the bike]

Black is positive and black/white is the feed to the coils.  When the switch is on then 12V is supplied to the coils,  when the switch is off, then no 12V to the coils.

If you remove the tank, check the black/white on the coils.  It should be 12V
With the switch off, the 12V should disappear.

Measure the 12V with the red meter lead,  and the black meter lead on the battery negative or touching the engine.

Hope this helps

[watty51]

Thought DSS might be a bit "funny" about returns with marks on them, Ive learnt a lesson today and that is "check things work before fixing to bike".

Any how will try the continuity test and if that fails try to fix the "BRAND NEW SWITCH" tonight. I will post some photos later if all fails.

Having read a lot of posts about parts for our bikes seems that quite a lot are substandard.

Thanks for advice

[Chris400F]

Certainly sounds like a short somewhere, hopefully not too difficult to trace.
If you stick your location in your profile it will help - maybe there is another member nearby who could have a look if necessary.

[AshimotoK0]

Thought DSS might be a bit "funny" about returns with marks on them, Ive learnt a lesson today and that is "check things work before fixing to bike".

Any how will try the continuity test and if that fails try to fix the "BRAND NEW SWITCH" tonight. I will post some photos later if all fails.

Having read a lot of posts about parts for our bikes seems that quite a lot are substandard.

Thanks for advice

I think if there is a genuine manufacturing fault DS will be receptive. If not then we can take it up with them as a 'group'. We have done it before, me being 'piggy-in-the' middle' for it and getting flak from other members  , who don't like him  ....  but no worries I am Yorkshire thick -skinned trough and through!! Seriously though if it's faultly from the off, don't let it drop.

[watty51]

Just tested the switch out. Here are the results...Using Gunson Multimeter 1

Set to the 200 scale on the ohms .
Disconnected blk/white wire and black wire from the main harness.
Connected red probe to black wire and black probe to blk/white.
Turned switch to off position, meter reading of zero
Turned switch to on position, meter reading of 00.3
Turned switch to off position, meter reading of zero

So It looks like the switch is okay.
Hopefully I have tested it correctly !
Back to the drawing board. Dam

[hairygit]

Those readings say to me the switch is duff! the only position where you should get a reading of zero or very close to it is in the "Run" position, the engine stop positions should be infinity (open circuit)

[watty51]

Just to add a bit of confusion,  I tried Mike the Bikes suggestion earlier.
Black is positive and black/white is the feed to the coils.  When the switch is on then 12V is supplied to the coils,  when the switch is off, then no 12V to the coils.

If you remove the tank, check the black/white on the coils.  It should be 12V
With the switch off, the 12V should disappear.

Measure the 12V with the red meter lead,  and the black meter lead on the battery negative or touching the engine.

The readings are Kill Switch off 0.00, With the kill switch on (run) 10.00.
Does this prove if the switch is good or faulty

[watty51]

Decided to fish the old original switch out of the parts bin to compare the readings from the old switch to the new switch.
The old switch was working fine before I changed. Just the appearance let it down.

Anyhow the readings were the same as with the new and old switch so from that I think the new switch is fine and there hides a problem within the wiring somewhere else.
Going to have a good look Sat/Sun.

Now where do I start !

[mike the bike]

Check your wiring.  If the black/white is plugged into a black, then the coils would be picking up a permanent 12V.  If the switch is OK  the coils must be getting 12V from somewhere.
Personally, I don't like using resistance measurement for fault finding, I prefer to measure voltages.   You just need to find out where that 12V is coming from.

[watty51]

Thanks for the reply Mike.

The blk/white is definitely plugged into the blk/white from the main harness.  I marked up the cables before installing new switch. I'm going to inspect everything later today and maybe get back with some readings, or hopefully with success. fingers crossed.

Have a good day

Now where's that Hammer !!

[mickwinf]

just a thought and going by memory, is the coil lead (black/white) near the coils plugged into a black wire as I think there is a spare black wire in that area, that would mean that you have a constant 12v to the coils.

[watty51]

As you can see the wiring was a complete mess in the headlamp.
The cables were  I think extended from some American chap to put some higher bars on even though when I picked the bike up it had flat style handlebars on. Anyhow I've cut out all the rubbish and repaired the wiring with new bullet connectors and hey presto everything works as it should...
Thanks for all the suggestions
Chuffed