Which Engine Oil should I use ?

[Greg H]

I'm building a hot 1000 ,750 based motor .
Can anyone recommend a suitable readily available Engine Oil ? .
Cheers Greg "H"

[philgresty]

Anything 10w40 semi synthetic from any major brand really, shell, motul etc.
For break in period after a build, mineral 10w40 is recommended to get everything bedded in, rings seated etc.

[Greg H]

Thanks for the reply Phil  .
I guess what I was looking for something more specific ,something like a brand of oil which people on here have used succesfully .
I've been doing a bit of digging on the old interweb and come up with what looks like an ideal choice of10/40 mineral oil for my motor .
It's Miller Oils 10/40 mineral running in  oil .
I intend dropping the oil a couple of times after initial start up,and although this motor has cost me an arm and a leg to build ,the cost, suitability and availability of the Miller Oils stuff is looking good .
Cheers Greg "H"

[Rozabikes Tim]

Just changed the oil on my 400 to  take it it for a run to  see if any glaring issues before stripping to restore. On the advice of Brian on the forum,  went to Tescos in search of 10/40 standard mineral stuff. Couldn't see exactly that but bought  a "part synthetic". New one on me - spose same or similar to semi...  says older engines / petrol and diesel.  2l for £6.50 too!  Not been out for a good run but seems fine so far.

[Greg H]

As I've spent a number of years(and not to mention a small fortune ) building this bike as an early1970s  replica pro stock drag bike ,which means that it'll be loud and uncomfortable and totally unsuitable for the road as well as not being road legal(something that wouldn't have bothered me a few years ago )I won't have the luxury of being able to  take it down the road to check if everything is o.k ,
everything will have to be sorted out at home on the driveway ,in the workshop or at the track.

[Johnwebley]

I have done quite a few miles using this stuff,

  after any parts have been run in

http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-accessories/engine-oils-and-car-fluids/engineoils/10w40-engine-oil/?521776011&0&cc5_245







 

[Greg H]

Thanks for that mate .
It looks like what I'm looking for .
I've bookmarked the page for future reference .

[fryerk]

I use that very same qx oil in all my bikes. Never had any issues.

[tom400f]

Same for me, but the diesel one
http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-accessories/engine-oils-and-car-fluids/engineoils/10w40-engine-oil/?521776151&0&cc5_245

[philward]

Found it a bit cheaper:-
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2060353.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XTRIPLE+QX+Semi+Synthetic+Diesel+Engine+Oil+-+10W-40+-+5ltr.TRS0&_nkw=TRIPLE+QX+Semi+Synthetic+Diesel+Engine+Oil+-+10W-40+-+5ltr&_sacat=0

[Greg H]

Nice one Phil  .

[Greebo]

It does not state whether this oil is for cars or bikes which is unusual, but I don't suppose it matters, in the 60's a mate of mine put cooking oil in his bike, he use to nick it from work..

[K2-K6]

I'm surprised you've not had an avalanche of stuff on this as oil threads usually generate their own gravitational pull

As you're possibly in a different level of operation with a modified engine I think it's worth more in depth consideration. I'd look at oils specified to VW 505.01 to consider it's specific attributes that could be appropriate here. That point zero one makes a significant difference to the oil spec in terms of material protection.
It's for their series of pump direct engines labelled PD and offers a higher level of protection for their cams which are highly loaded as well as being passed through a literally red hot turbo.

[kew]

You need to be a bit careful if you are going to run an engine with more power than standard.
Modern engine oils have friction modifiers to enable the vehicles to have better fuel consumption. If you use these oils you can have problems with clutch slip. If you run a standard engine and you drive sensibly you probably wont have any trouble.
I race a sidecar with an 836cc engine and I'm building a 1000cc engine for next season, I use Millars 20w50 motorcycle oil. The engine oils specified for motorcycles don't have friction modifiers so eliminate the clutch slip problem.

[totty]

The oil thread gravitational pull is starting.....

There is a standard for oil for wet clutches so clutch slip is easily avoided http://www.oilspecifications.org/articles/JASO_MA_JASO_MB.php

Gearboxes should also have EP additives to reduce wear, but you rarely see that bit debated, it's always about the clutch because that's where you can feel the difference.

Personally for road bikes I just buy any known brand bike specific oil, yes the prices are a rip off, but it saves having to understand all the oil threads. (for trials where the clutch feel is more important I use Motul 300v)