SOHC.co.uk Forums > The Black Bomber Board
1969 CL450 US Barn Find Restoration
MrDavo:
Thanks for that, I may have found a source for replica 80mm tank badges complete with '450' underneath, but the guy is away until December 8, we have exchanged emails.
The bodywork looks lovely - did Menno restore the side panel badges?, I thought they were stickers until I looked at mine (which are quite faded) closely. The silver would be the tricky part I guess, it looks like a chrome finish.
Here's a link to a nice picture of a finished one in blue:
http://www.livablelandscape.org/CYCLES/450CLadds.htm
Menno, if you're reading this, don't throw the candy blue paint away, you're going to need some more, once I get my CB750 stuff back. :)
I may have to try and polish the nasty scratch out of my stator cover, though I fear its as deep as the lettering. Some chancer in the US seems to have bought them all up so he can bang them out polished at $300 a pop, the only other early style ones for sale are FUBAR, or at least as badly scratched as mine >:( If anyone has one (the early CB450 and bomber are the same) let me know.
MrDavo:
Remember I said:
--- Quote ---My guess is shagged gear selectors may have stopped the bike, they are known for it, and it's engine out and cases split to fix it - when he failed at the first hurdle in getting the motor out, he just gave up and got another toy.
--- End quote ---
I found out for sure what caused the bike to be retired so early on when I dropped the oil.
At first I thought it was the 4x8mm dowel that holds the selector cage to the drum, but as it measures at 4x8.4mm, and is dull with a small rough patch at one end I now think its one of the selector fork pins, broken at the groove for the circlip. I may yet sieve the oil to look for the rest, it depends what I find when I get the cases split.
It explains why the fault persisted despite the fact that the clutch cover has been off (all allen screws, replacing the originals he will have inevitably butchered), you can get at the selector mechanism to repair it, but not the forks and drum, you need to split the cases for that, and as we've seen, he failed at the first head steady nut.
I spent a lot of yesterday cleaning mud and grit out of the area aroung the drive sprocket, and oily crud off the area around the starter motor. I decided I might as well get things clean before the cases were split.
The screws on the alternator cover and neutral switch were untouched and very tight, luckily I have an impact driver, unlike Bubbah.
I think I may have to join the Hondatwins forum, as someone there is asking about original case finishes on the CL450. As mine seems to be such a timewarp, I think I can help.
Also I filled the combustion chambers with petrol, and watched it leak out of the rhs exhaust valve, my guess is that as this was the side with rusty rings (now freed and polished) that this valve was left open for years and has a rusty seat. Theres a mullahed crosshead still between me and geting a cam holder off though.
The starter was fine inside, little wear to the brushes, I just cleaned the commutator and put it back together.
Last thing before I packed up I got the clutch cover off. I'm bemused by instructions to get the filter out by removing the 6mm bolt and screwing in an 8mm one, as (a) hows that going to work in the same hole? and (b) there was no bolt there at all. Can anyone shed light as my filter doesn't want to come out (I have removed the big circlip).
AshimotoK0:
I wouldn't expect the kind of response on HondaTwins that you get on here Dave .. or maybe it's just me asking the wrong questions.
Check the oil pump body..if it's steel with an alloy plunger piston then consider changing it to the later alloy body/steel plunger one from a later model. It's well documented that the flow from the early pump was insufficient and there is a tendency for the exhaust cam lobe/rocker/journal (final one in the oil delivery chain) to wear prematurely. Obviously, if you are only intending on doing a low mileage on it then probably no need though. Roy Halliwell and myself bought the later alloy body one off eBay (the 500T pump also fits)
hairygit:
The cover of the filter has an internal M8 thread tapped into it, and the M8 bolt acts as a puller, the same way as getting the alternator rotor off of a Honda four engine (although the four alternator thread is much bigger)
Sent from my X6pro using Tapatalk
UK Pete:
Great project Mrdavo, as i am reading through yours and others posts its giving me the much needed enthusiasm to get back on with mine
pete
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