SOHC.co.uk Forums > The Black Bomber Board
1969 CL450 US Barn Find Restoration
K2-K6:
For the knackered crosshead, you can with a wide pin punch, peen the damaged metal back into shape.
After that you can then tap a impact driver bit into the reshaped head and it'll usually give you enough bite to then use the impact driver on it, but tap it to do up first, then reverse it as it should release it.
MrDavo:
Pete, if following this rebuild rekindles your enthusiasm for restoring your bikes, that is worth the trouble of making these posts on its own. :)
That crosshead was a mean little SOB, with a tiny mangled cross on an unusual flat headed screw, I'm not sure if that's because it goes behind the points plate, anyhow my ancient (and probably non JIS) impact driver came to the rescue yet again - K2-K6 I usually do tighten them first, but by accident as it seems to jump into clockwise mode when I'm not paying attention.
Ive got both cams out and all the cam followers out now, virtually zero wear anywhere. I didn't get the valves out last night though, as I couldn't see how to shift the torsion bars. Only on reading some old threads did I find out about the knock pins behind the torsion bar keeper bolts, they aren't mentioned in the manual. If I can get the torsion bar ends away from the heads enough to clear the knock pins, apparently I can turn them with a 14mm spanner, releasing the collets. And there was me wondering how the hell I was going to get my valve sring compressor in there, and what to do with it if I did.
I managed to get the spinner out of the oil filter by using a 6mm screw as an extractor, I thought I needed a special tool to get the special filter body nut off until I noticed on the ads on eBay it looked suspiciously like my CB750 clutch centre nut tool - result! Unlike the CB750, because of the restricted space, a hammer and screwdriver is not an option. It was all clean in there, I'm guessing it was cleaned when the clutch came off to try and fix the gearchange fault, and when that didn't work out the bike was never used again.
Ash, you're right about the oil pump, it has a steel body, thanks for the info - I knew from t'internet that oil supply was a problem, often evidenced by early yellowing of the laquer on the exhaust cam end covers caused by heat - mine had gone yellow anyway, but with age. I can see a couple of later pumps for sale from a breaker in the US (like DK, but using blue Terry Towels instead of chequer plate for the photos), However I'm not ordering until I know whether or not I also need some of the gearbox parts he has, due to the horrendous postage charges. As for the twins forum, yes there has been a distinct tumbleweed vibe since I posted on there a few days ago - nothing!
The NOS headlamp shell arrived, all the way from Oz, although being red it has the same Honda logo and 'HM16' cast on it, plus the hole for the neutral light.
I have ordered a new early CL450 seat from Texavina in Vietnam, when I queried why it was $40 more than a similar seat listed I got a reply that it was because of the stainless trim strip around the base, plus a $20 refund!
UK Pete:
Sounds like your getting stuck in, what is the benefit of tightening first on stubborn screws and bolts, i usually give them a swift tao with hammer first before undoing
K2-K6:
As you do Pete, I'd tap them first and then use a good fit bit to get them to move.
I'd usually rotate clockwise if they've been knackered by someone trying to undo them first, very often the "doing up " drive faces are still intact so you can get any corrosion to release going that way abit with good drive.
MrDavo:
Postimage isn't letting me upload at the moment (after I recommended it in an thread about uploading pictures) so pics later, however there have been developments....
I split the cases last night, and was pleased but puzzled to find everything in the transmission in apple pie order, including all the hard to get bits like the stoppers with the wheels on rivets and the selctors, nothing to replace at all. Which begged the question - where the */-+ did that 8x4mm pin in the sump come from?
I had a look through the parts book online, and that pin is used twice in the 450 engine, as well as in the CB750 F2 oil pump somewhere. It connects the selector drum to the assembly with the plates and pins, as all that works it must still be there, though you'd have to pull it all apart to see it. The other I found out was to stake the camchain idler wheel spindle into the cases, 22 in the diagram below:
When I found this out at midnight, I went back into the garage to check if it was AWOL from where it should be, I wondered if I'd dislodged it as I took the barrels off, causing it to fall in the sump. What did floor me, considering I was so sure that noone had been in there before me, was that the spindle it knocks into, 9 in the diagram, was in there the wrong way round, so the pin couldn't have been doing its job of locating the spindle, as the locating hole was at the wrong end to the groove in the crankcase where the pin locates. It had once been in the right place once, as you can see witness marks on the barrel skirt and flange, but couldn't have got from there into the sump. It was either dropped in and lost, put in the right hole at the other end where it would have been able to work loose and fall into the sump, or in the right place but not located in the spindle hole - however to be damaged at all it must have been in the sump already, not fallen in when I took the barrels off.
All very strange, I know for a fact that I hadn't had the spindle out and put it back the wrong way round. The chain roller (8) was tired and worn, they get hard and fragile - I think bits of it are in the sump, I've ordered a new Japanese pattern one from DS.
I had wondered why there was damage to the crosshead screw that holds the little oval spindle cover over the top camchain roller at the very top of the head (18), I'm guessing someone was investigating a noisy camchain.
The knockpin has a little burr and enough slight damage to stop it going back into the spindle. It could have been far worse if it had had a trip around the gearbox! Finding it to be made of unobtanium I was resigned to filing it to fit, then I googled the part number and found a dealer in Alabama with a couple. Usual deal with the USA, carriage was twice the part cost, but a bit of horse trading via ebay messaging and we reached an agreement.
I've ordered all the seals and a gasket set, on the grounds that if it ain't broke don't fix it, I'll start putting it together again when I have all the bits.
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