SOHC.co.uk Forums > The Black Bomber Board

1969 CL450 US Barn Find Restoration

<< < (7/62) > >>

AshimotoK0:
I was wondering if the 'gut's of  the 120 MPH (extreme RHS in my 1st pic ) metal body gauge could be transplanted into the plastic body one. Need to ask kent400 he's bound to know. Up to you Dave

MrDavo:
I don't see what we'd gain from that, I've found that the internal gearing in the speedo is the same for all Honda speedos from that era, they tweak for differnet wheel sizes at the speedo drive on the axles, which aren't interchangable.

Chances of me going much over the ton on a CL aren't high, if anyone tells me 'I think you'll find that's not the correct speedo graduations' I'll tell them to get a life, so no the 350 one will be fine Ash.

Edit: That said if you sell me the plastic one, I'd still have the nearly new later type alloy bodied one that's on the bike now, so if they would swap easily once I'd prised the crimp off (not that easy to do without butchery I know), I could do it myself - so paging kent400 - in fact I'll send him a pm.

jensen:
Hi,

Nice build !

One word of advice regarding the crank of these bikes.

Please do yourself a favour and bring the crank to a specialist and ask him / her to remove the left and right oil way plugs, clean the oil ways behind the plugs, and put new ones in.
This is well worth the money, because good cranks are very hard to find. I can explain why you should do this, but that takes a while, but if you want me to explain, I will.

Jensen

MrDavo:
Eww! Unexpected delay alert!

I've been following your thread on twins.net, so I do appreciate that you know what you are talking about. Can you give me the short tldr version of why I have to do this instead? :)

Can anyone suggest a UK specialist? If its one I can drive to from Manchester even better. They'll have to get the rotor off too, because I couldn't, but didn't have to until now.

I was going to start putting the bottom end back together, but hey, I can polish cases and start on the head.

jensen:
The reason is that the inner crank wall oil guide has a larger diameter then the spinner filter.

[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

The centrifugal force on a floating particle is depending on the circular speed of the filter and the weight of the particle and the distance of the particle from the center.

Fc= m*w2*r

Fc is the centrifugal force
m is the mass of the floating particle
w is the circular speed
r is the radius or distance from particle toward the centre

Since every other variable in this formula is the same (w and m), the Fc working on a given particle will be higher because of the larger diameter, which is the r in the formula above. So, if any particle is not caught by the spinner filter it will be caught by the crank walls due to this effect.

Since the oil is pushed from the crank walls into the oilway's to the big-ends, the particles will block this oil way slowly. By removing the plugs, you are able to clean the oil ways. The crank walls can be cleaned from the out-side.

In the picture below, I flush the oil ways with very aggressive fluids for weeks, but getting the plugs out is the best solution. The nasty stuff in the bottle is what's came out my CB450 K0 crankshaft, having just 1500 miles on the odo (and nothing on the bike says that this isn't the real mileage).

[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page