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hairygit:
Which is why it's NEVER a good idea to use an aftermarket bolt in the oil filter housing, as you can never be sure if the valve will open as it should in a crisis, whereas with a genuine Honda one, you can be quite certain it will do what it is designed for.
K2-K6:
Try thinking of the valve inside the bolt as an inlet valve in the intake port, the holes in the bolt being route from carbs.
If you pumped oil under pressure down an engine intake it'd open the valve by pushing on the back face and pull the valve spring with it, so opening the port and letting flow go through that route.
hairygit:
If you can lay your hands on an old oil filter bolt it is much easier to understand. As you know the bottom set of holes (closest to the crankcases) are clear of the filter, BUT they are normally blocked by the pressure relief valve, unless the filter gets clogged and excess pressure builds up in the filter housing and forces the valve open against spring pressure holding the valve shut, forcing it open, allowing oil to flow unfiltered to the engine. If you have an old bolt, you will see it is cross drilled just above the end of the thread with a thin pin inserted across the opposite walls of the bolt. Using a thin punch or similar, tap the pin out, grab the exposed end with pliers and slowly pull it out, mind your eyes/face, the spring retained by the pin is under considerable pressure and may fly out with some force. Then the valve should drop out, and you should be able to see how it works better than anyone could explain. Also, next time you need to do an oil / filter change, warm the engine as normal, then remove the filter/housing BEFORE draining the oil. Then, making absolutely certain the ignition is switched OFF (remove the keys to be 100% sure) kick the engine over a couple of times, and you will see oil flowing from the smaller hole at the front of the crankcases, which would when assembled surround the filter, go through the filter, and return to the engine via the large threaded hole the bolt goes in, and on to the crank etc
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taysidedragon:
--- Quote from: Oddjob on January 23, 2018, 12:25:06 AM ---I haven't started any of my 500 engines for over 30 years, so no chance of looking. I do have a few spare crankcases lying around, next time I see one I'll drop some fluid down the oil pump outlet and see where it comes out.
I remember the oil filter bolt quite well, certainly remember the way the valve was held in but never had the need to remove the valve. I seemed to recall the spring is the first thing fitted, then the washer, then the filter not the other way round as you explain it. It was why most people lost the washer when changing the filter as you couldn't see it under the filter and the pressure used to stick it to the filter sealing rubber and got thrown away with the filter, that would make the valve being fitted just under the head of the bolt not near the crankcase. If my recollection is correct of course.
--- End quote ---
I think you're confusing the pressure relief valve with the big spring that fits over the bolt. Different thing altogether. :o
K2-K6:
I've got it the same way as Oddjob, with the bolt in the filter casing, you first put the coil spring onto the bolt, then the washer, then the filter.
The spring when all assembled pushes the filter against the engine leaving the holes nearest the bolt head clear for bypass.
The filter is not needed to be located any more positively as the oil pressure is virtually equal acting on it from outside to inside (only a slight drop from filter restriction) in other words the whole filter housing is at the same pressure once oil pump is running.
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