CB400 Four special (Mr Sinx II )

[SteveD CB500K0]

Plus select “Inline image” from the drop down menu.

Sorry - can’t make it the default


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[Northy]

Thanks for that , will have re size my photos .......have bad enough time just remembering to take pictures

Anyway , found a tank .....with dents !

Purchased a box section swing arm from Mr Cole from this fine forum ...shame as I will now have to respray it.

Just working on the fairing , have 2nd hand R90s style one but just too big for the 400.....anything else is more money. 

Just testing the picture bit but  my front end  CB400N double discs .....which are rarer then cb400F. (colour might not be to every one taste)

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[royhall]

The picture worked out great.

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[ka-ja]

Brakes look good, almost the double of my set up except for the wheels, I used comstars converted to spokes, nice to see another individual approach to a 400/4

[Woodside]

Any good
Came off a 400/4

[Northy]

Looks the same size I already have ,been looking  for one that wasn't as  so deep so don't have to mount too far forward.

There number around on Ebay ,Chinese specials but there too pointy and low. Found one that might work  ..... I'm a fussy bugger 

Trouble is need to get tank on and ensure  its doesnt foul that or even look too big in scheme of things 

[Woodside]

Have you WhatsApp or an email
I can send an old pic over of it fitted

[Northy]

Have you WhatsApp or an email
I can send an old pic over of it fitted

PM sent

[Northy]

This is  the fairing I've got to work with ....will be adding a 7 inch headlight  as well . The whole bike will be taller and this may "too"  large a fairing might just work, only one way to fine out .Will be using the existing headlight brackets [ Guests cannot view attachments ]

Next "problem" was this fine looking box section s/arm arrived from a forumite [ Guests cannot view attachments ]

Question was spray it up in matching colours (red) or fit as is ..........fit as it !  its too good to paint and if it doesn't work not hard to spray it up

Having a right PITA time with the front brakes , bleeding them.  To start with the face on master cylinder was pitted ,so that was smoothed out,as it leaked. The long double banjo bolt is not long enough , so feel uneasy tightening it up hard. Tried everything but there still feels like air in there. I've got a hard lever but it should do it sooner than it does if you know what I mean. [ Guests cannot view attachments ]

Of course manage to fit the lines in the wrong order so cross further down ....but there staying like that  for while.   

[Northy]

Next up Tank .....this dented thing arrived and was suppose to hold petrol , inside looked Ok and top although dented wasn't bad

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However the horrors where  underneath

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Umm bad rust but nothing I couldn't deal with. I could sand blast it but that can be bit too vicious
Then I had thought .........it soon passed 


We see a lot of posts "How do I de-rust my petrol tank"  and whole lot of answers , but it very hard to photo the inside of your tank So I'll show you what I do by doing the outside.

 I attack it with sprint of salts , 500ml  for £3.50 @ homebase . The odd thing is this stuff doesn't work on grease or paint very well,  so need de-grease then strip off any of the paint.
Then next problem is the local homebase is shut , ie mean closed down ... so brick acid can be used (Note I live Nr Dover, the only town which doesn't a Mcdonalds in high street ,shut 1 yr ago)

Anyway back to tanks .....I was using some old stuff I had, hence the rather green brown mess (normally clear) then there's  the problem in getting the stuff to stay in contact with metal not an issue inside a tank.  I was using couple bits of rag and making sure there soaked now and again . Its job you leave and do something else while it pickling away [ Guests cannot view attachments ]

The  final result took longer than normal , could quicken it up by using fresh acid and scrubbing it with small wire brush. However remember this stuff is 36% hydrochloric acid , hence why the green colour, the brown colour is old rust and the fumes are nasty (outdoor jobbie) [ Guests cannot view attachments ]

The stuff is washed off with a caustic soda solution then lots of water, dried and given a coat of etch primer ......however spot the holes at the rear of the tank ......B*****R  !

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Good news is managed to mig weld the holes , phew !!  covered the area with chemical metal just case and no leaks . I will be sealing the tank as well.

Now to work on the top side of the tank .....   

 



     

[Bryanj]

Dont want to pee on your parade but look carefully at the pivot of the swingarm. It looks like the alloy bushes are pivoting on the long bolt and not the original collar, if so this is not a good idea for several reasons.
1 the bolt is designed to be tightened till it pinches the collar in the frame
2 bolt is not as strong as povot
3 grease dont get in to lube things properly.

If it is that way should not be difficult to machine bushes to take pivot, just make sure it is pivot that is clamped not bushes I.E. pivot fractionaly longer than seing arm is wide.

[K2-K6]

I can't remember accurately Bryan,  but thought I recall that Dresda used taper roller bearing arrangements to support their swingarm. 

Those look like they could be with the aluminium outer providing a sleeving into the bearing bore to size them onto std Honda pivot bolt.

In which case to be ideal they should have a clamped distance tube between the two races.

[Trigger]

Dresda used taper roller bearing 

[Northy]

There's a set of taper roller bearings in there , same as I had in 1980's ........all pee removed   

Anyone got an old seat base  ?  making my own seat as can't get what I want.
 

[Northy]

Ok folks back again  and things are going slowly  due to a number of factors (don't want to bore you will that)

So this a tale of two tanks

The red one got washed with acid inside this time and yet more 2 pin holes appear ....chemical metal call into play and time to seal the tank up. I normally use POR 15  but everywhere seem to be out of stock on the small tins. So decided to go for tapox  [ Guests cannot view attachments ]

Well its crap , firstly the temperature needs to really high to ensure the solvent evaporates and instructions say to pump air into the tank for 5 hours !  to ensure the solvent doesn't condense inside the tank and wash away the sealant. Also you use only use a 1/3  of the tin. Well even in green house it took for ever to dry, 2 days. I pumped air into via the hole for the petrol tap and ok that side but the other side had condensation even after 1 hour and washed the sealant away (bit like red oxide) Added more stuff to cover the washed away bit but still same effect . Even the left over stuff in the tin took a week to go off (yes it was all mixed properly)....Rant rant 

So about given up on the red tank ......move to blue tank (thanks Peter)
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Once the paint was removed even more rusty stuff under it  but it didn't leak and even once the inside was cleaned out , no leaks , phew
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Problem was loads of rust pin prick holes  once the rust was removed  and what I'd call micro  dents

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