SOHC.co.uk Forums > Project Board
New (to me!) '77 CB400F - US model
mattsz:
Will do, thanks!
Bryanj:
Try this link page 69 and 70
http://www.emgo.com/images/pdf/2017Tools.pdf
mattsz:
Might as well keep the ignition switch discussion going here...
I removed and dismantled the switch - well, the switch self-dismantled before I got it disconnected, and small parts scattered to the floor beneath the bike. There's two very small ball bearings and springs which stayed put, thankfully, but I definitely heard other bits jingle to the floor, so I looked carefully around and found two springs, two contact pieces, and a screw. After close inspection, I believe the screw to be a red herring, and not part of the switch at all - just happened to be lying nearby on the floor when I started searching. It looks very much like a screw commonly used to secure wall switch and outlet cover plates here in the US.
Switch with glue:
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Switch and back cover:
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Guts - it all seems to go back together only one way, so if I tried to reuse it, I could sort it out:
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Mystery screw:
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Interestingly, despite all the wire and glue, the plastic cover doesn't appear to be broken at all, nor does the metal housing - but the cover doesn't hold tightly when installed even without the switch guts. But the glue is filling the slots that the tabs should be gripping (except where the tabs were in place to displace the glue while it was setting), so maybe no surprise there... I think I need to try to clear all the glue away and see what's what - actually I think it might be epoxy-like JB Weld, so I'm in for a treat...
mattsz:
I removed all the glue. It wasn't too bad a job; it scraped off the metal pretty easily, and peeled off the plastic switch cover in "sheets" with just a fingernail. I doubt it was doing much, if anything, and that the bailing wire was doing all the work - as evidenced by the fact that the electrical bits at the bottom of the switch self-destructed shortly after I cut that wire. Anyway, I don't see any actual damage to any part. The cover still seems a bit loose (probably why it was glued and wired in the first place!); I think I might be able to soften the tabs with heat and bend them out a bit to see if it would hold - but a whole new switch and cover plate (Emgo) is only $8 delivered, so I ordered one. We'll see how a new one fits before I decide how to proceed...
mattsz:
Ok if I keep adding posts about random quick stuff here?
Speedometer and tachometer cable set screws...
--- Quote from: mattsz on November 26, 2018, 10:19:37 PM ---
--- Quote from: mattsz on October 25, 2018, 09:21:30 PM ---Ok, so I thought I'd remove the front wheel so I could squeeze the caliper piston out with the brake lever before dismantling. Let's see, step one: "remove the speedometer set screw." Easy enough. Hmm, the recess looks pretty small, what size allen wrench is that? None of mine fit. Wait, where's my damn glasses, that doesn't look quite right:
(Attachment Link)
Wha? Quick forum search for that set screw... oh. So this is how it's going to be, huh? (sighs...)
--- End quote ---
I found the speedo cable set screw in the parts book... Frame Group, Block #2A, Ref. #437, Part #93700-05016-0A, "screw, oval, 5x16". I can't find the tach cable set screw in the parts book. I declared earlier that I had read somewhere that they're the same screw, but not sure now where I came by this info. Can anyone confirm whether they're in fact the same screw?
--- End quote ---
I removed both of those set screws... drilled out the knackered heads, tapped a Torx bit into the hole and turned both right out. Turns out the speedo cable screw was 12mm and the tach cable screw was 16mm. The tach screw hole is blind, and the 12mm is too short. The speedo screw mounting hole (at the front hub) is open at both ends, and while the 12mm seems to work fine, the 16mm fits and in fact comes almost flush with the back of the hole, so it's probably a better choice anyway. I'll replace them both with 16mm screws.
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