CB400F right-hand switch module removal

[mattsz]

My starter button is very tight and it sticks when you push it in.  Fortunately, the rest of the circuit is also bad and the solenoid just buzzes... rather than having the starter motor get stuck on and running!  If I want to dismantle the module to clean and possibly rehab it over the winter, will I be able to just remove the mounting screws and disconnect wires at that location, or do I have to trace the wires back to the main harness?  There's no light switch (US model), but the wires do run inside the bars...  I'm hoping it's easy... 

[Bryanj]

Wires are soldered inside the switch so can not be easily disconnected there. Have to be unplugged at other end and pulled through bars. Time to get a UK switch so you can turn the lights off mate

[TrickyMicky]

Welcome to the world of Honda micro-surgery! It's not so much a difficult job, more of a time consuming adventure. Once you have delved into the hidden depths of the headlamp shell to dis-connect all the relevant wires, group them all together and securely tie a long piece of string/cord round them so that when you have disembowelled them through the handlebars, that's the method to use to replace them. From what I remember, the internals of the switch cluster are not exactly DIY friendly, it's a lot less hassle to install a new unit. Regarding the 'buzzing' solenoid, first check all the terminals are nice and clean and shiny, and then check the battery voltage. If the voltage is OK, and you are feeling brave, bridge the two large terminals on the solenoid with a screwdriver, if the engine spins over then it is probably a knackered solenoid. In my years of ownership, have replaced solenoid once, and handlebar switches three times. Keep smiling and Merry Christmas. Regards, Mick.

[mike the bike]

As TrickyMicky suggested, unplug the switch wires from the loom in the headlamp shell and romove the switch assembly. The connections are held in place by some small screws.  Best to do this on a tray so you don't lose anything.  There's a couple of ball bearings and small springs so be careful.
Clean everything up so the contacts are all nice and shiny.  Resolder any wires that look iffy.  Reassemble using grease to hold the springs and ball bearings in place.
They're a lot easier to repair than Suzuki switches.

Hope this helps.

[mattsz]

Thanks guys!  I think I'll probably leave it for now, it's ready for winter hibernation, and I've got the carbs and front brake parts to keep me busy.

Bryanj - I'd like the light switching option - I'll have to look into that, and whether it's as simple as adding the switch.  My US-spec 2000 Kawasaki W650 has different wiring than the rest of the worlds', it's a major job to retrofit a switch.

TrickyMicky - thanks for the suggestions.  I'm not worried about the starter's current operation, or lack thereof - The battery is shot, I hooked up a different one just long enough to try to crank the motor over and see if I could build some oil pressure (tested it by hand first!) - that's when I discovered that the start button was sticky, and that the solenoid wouldn't make the connection anyway...

mike the bike - noted, thank you!

[mike the bike]

If you send the switch to me and pay for the return postage I'll refurbish it for you.
Send both switches and I'll refurb both.  I won't charge a fellow 400four owner.

[Bryanj]

It is just the switch different, Honda used the same loom for all the markets. Lots of imported US bikes here in UK have had this done. There may be a slight difference in starter butten/solenoid wireing but nothing majour and very easy to do.

[mattsz]

If you send the switch to me and pay for the return postage I'll refurbish it for you.
Send both switches and I'll refurb both.  I won't charge a fellow 400four owner.

That's most generous, thank you!  Worth looking into postage, though these days I'm sure it ain't cheap!  I won't be able to do anything about it before next spring at any rate.  If I'm honest, I like the idea of doing it myself - an engine rebuild seems totally over my head, but a switch rebuild? Lemme at it!

It is just the switch different, Honda used the same loom for all the markets. Lots of imported US bikes here in UK have had this done. There may be a slight difference in starter butten/solenoid wireing but nothing majour and very easy to do.

Good to know, I'll keep it in mind!

[mike the bike]

Worth looking into postage, though these days I'm sure it ain't cheap 

I didn't notice you live on the left side of the pond.

[mattsz]

I didn't notice you live on the left side of the pond.

England, but "new"... 

[mike the bike]

Geologically, it's about the same age as old England.

[mattsz]

Geologically, it's about the same age as old England.

 

But geology aside - you guys have 7-11's older than most of our "historic" buildings...

[mattsz]

I removed the switch module today.  I started in the headlight shell.  Not sure why - if I had thought about it, I could have guessed that since the US models have no lighting switches (only starter and kill switches), it was likely the wires don't go there.  Which they don't - they all go right down and around to the bundle of connectors beneath the tank on the left side.

I haven't delved in too deeply yet, but I did observe that when I loosened the two screws that secure the switch housing, the sticking starter button became much less sticky, so maybe something is loose or broken inside.  I also found that one of the black wires had a bit of open insulation right where it took a hard turn into the connector at the frame, with bare wire showing through.  Trying to sort out the wiring diagram to figure out whether it's already a ground wire, or if it could be a problem...

[Bryanj]

Black wires are switched power wires on Honda's I.E. live when ignition switch is turned on.

[mattsz]

Black wires are switched power wires on Honda's I.E. live when ignition switch is turned on.

There you go, then.  It was bundled up inside that "rubber" sock encasing all those connectors, so I don't think it's likely it would have caused a short-circuit fault, but still probably a good thing to have found and fix!