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1967 CB450K0 Black Bomber Rebuild - By Royhall
royhall:
Anyway back to the proper thread. As I'm going to be asking lots of dumb questions about the electrics I thought best to post a wiring diagram.
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This is the best one I could find (credit the Clymer manual) but it does show a single coil and points where mine is duel coil as per the later bikes. Not sure why that is, maybe the single coil was very early bomber that was changed whilst still on the 4 speed. Not important as it doesn't really change any wiring.
I am going to be using a stator from a K4, a glass mat battery, a new wiring harness that the colours are not quite correct, and Pamco electronic ignition with electronic advance. Because of that I think it would be prudent to install a regulator into the circuit as per the later bikes. I was thinking of a combined regulator/rectifier in place of the Selenium unit, maybe something like this [size=78%]https://www.classicbikepartscheshire.com/electrical-c3/ammeters-voltage-regulators-c20/rectifier-regulator-12v-for-classic-motorcycle-p1483/s1500?cid=GBP&gclid=EAIaIQobChMImdrq8ZTC6gIVcYBQBh0z3QQMEAQYASABEgL-jPD_BwE[/size]
Any comments or advice at this point before I order the wrong thing would be appreciated.
Bryanj:
Thats only a single phase unit, not sure how the 450 generator is wired, perhaps hiding a zener and heat sink off a 70's triumph would be better
AshimotoK0:
A 3 phase regulator will not work on a twin. Best to fit a 3 wire regulator from a CB250/350K G5 or a later 450. Lots of them about , extremely reliable and don't cost a lot Unlike the Honda 4 3-phase voltage regulators they are totally solid state and no contacts to wear out. Same function as a Zener diode on a late 60s Triumph but a lot more sophisticated and precise current dumping to prevent overcharging of battery.
royhall:
My plan was (if correct) to take off the Selenium rectifier and fit the combined unit into the same location.
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Then wiring should be the two yellow wires connect to brown and yellow (either way), the red goes to red, and the black to ground (these wires are already at the rectifier so no need to cut the harness). Then the pink wire from the stator is joined to the yellow when the lights are switched via the ignition switch to give the lights a boost. Some recommend permanently splicing the pink and the yellow after the stator, however I am not sure of the need as it already joins (switched) before the rectifier. So to my mind it could stay as is, or would the switching in whilst the alternator is turning somehow damage the unit. Sounds like a perfectly good plan to me or is all that just a dumb scheme?
BTW. Ash, this one is single phase, any reason that wouldn't work on a Honda twin?
AshimotoK0:
Sorry didnt realize that one is single phase. I dont have any experience of that unit and its reliability. This is what I am fitting to my Bomber K0 http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=333178554350&category=177955&pm=1&ds=0&t=1594370188615&cspheader=1 If you trawl through my Dropbox incomplete Honda Bulletins I posted recently they discuss Honda fitting low output generators prior to the solid state regulator being introduced. If you are using a later stator that will be a high output one designed for the solid state regulator introduced on the CB250. Also there is evidence that after 50 odd years the permanent magnets will have lost magnetic flux. I would get the bike running and monitor the charge current with lights off and if it is low then permanently connect the night charging coil.
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