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1967 CB450K0 Black Bomber Rebuild - By Royhall
royhall:
Hope that wasn't the actual one you were going to fit Ash. If it was, sorry I just nicked it. How does that wire into the Bomber harness? Can it be done from the rectifier cables to prevent cutting the harness. Looks like I would have to cut the red in after the fuse, the yellow could join next to the rectifier, and the black to any black. Is that correct?
Here's the wiring diagram for the later models with regulator (again courtesy of the Clymer manual, copyright and all that).
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MrDavo:
My CL450 seems to have trouble getting over 12v when it should be charging, so what you say about 50 year old magnets losing there mojo is interesting to me. I wonder how feasible it is for me to make it so all the coils charge all the time.
That said, it must just about hold its own, I’ve not had a flat battery or come home with yellow lights. Most bikes when you rev them with the headlight on you see it get brighter but not this one.
AshimotoK0:
No worries Roy .. I have enough of them for my bikes that will use them.
If you trawl through this download link below (in Dropbox links on here) ... some interesting stuff ... it discusses low output alternators that were fitted to overcome damaging batteries and then the introduction of the solid state regulator in 1968 to cure this. Also these shots i just did from the CB250k manual will help explain things. I will check the wire colours for you.
General Collection of Honda Service Bulletins for various American Honda models. (many thanks Isaias from Facebook for these :)).
https://www.dropbox.com/s/2frhyulrq2wyo7o/Bulletins%201-129%20%28incomplete%29.pdf?dl=0
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MrDavo:
Ash do you think my 69 bike, which has the same rectifier and regulator as shown in that bulletin, is just working as intended by not frying the battery?
If so, I’ll leave the charging system alone.
AshimotoK0:
--- Quote from: MrDavo on July 10, 2020, 11:44:39 AM ---Ash do you think my 69 bike, which has the same rectifier and regulator as shown in that bulletin, is just working as intended by not frying the battery?
If so, I’ll leave the charging system alone.
--- End quote ---
Best thing to do is connect an ammeter in series with the battery (or use clamp on DC ammeter) but DON'T operate the electric start and take some current measurements at various RPM's with and without the lights switched on. You can then make an assesment to see if the alternator rotor magnets are weak. I assume a '69 CL 450 model has the SS regulator fitted? The SS regulator doesn't cut in until well above 12v .. it cuts in when the battery is sensed as being charged to almost full capacity
EDIT: cuts in between 14 and <15v
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