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Lets build a SOHC for less than a grand
Bryanj:
I found on the 500 that no washer worked, perhaps i was just lucky
Trigger:
--- Quote from: Bryanj on December 28, 2019, 08:02:21 PM ---I found on the 500 that no washer worked, perhaps i was just lucky
--- End quote ---
The distance between the bottom edge frame stop and the high point on the bottom yoke ( steering lock area) is 3.2mm so, if I remove the packing washer (4mm) it will touch mate.
Bryanj:
I know the one i did it on was a total mish mash of parts so i must have struck lucky for once.
I wasnt using a taper "kit" but individual bearing from Hy-Level, top and bottom bought seperatelyand niether had washers.
Trigger:
--- Quote from: Bryanj on December 28, 2019, 09:40:44 PM ---I know the one i did it on was a total mish mash of parts so i must have struck lucky for once.
I wasnt using a taper "kit" but individual bearing from Hy-Level, top and bottom bought seperatelyand niether had washers.
--- End quote ---
Nice to have some luck on it all fitting OK.
I will have another look at it tomorrow but, I have never had this problem with the old ball bearings ;)
Erny:
On contrary I'm definitely fan of tapered one.
I did that 3x already (CBF1000F, 750 K7, 550 K1).
On 750 K7 and 550 K1 - under bottom one I used one of washers to keep OEM bottom bearing height. Upper, I had to grind upper cup that holds upper bearing. Yes there is appox 2mm gap as you noticed, Trig, but easy to fix, either rubber or stainless washer with right thickness.
Handling is heavily improved! Especially later, no maintenance, much longer lifetime. On my CBF1000F it finally fixed many years present issue of hadlebar wobbling.
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