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Lets build a SOHC for less than a grand
Trigger:
--- Quote from: Erny on December 28, 2019, 09:45:31 PM ---On contrary I'm definitely fan of tapered one.
I did that 3x already (CBF1000F, 750 K7, 550 K1).
On 750 K7 and 550 K1 - under bottom one I used one of washers to keep OEM bottom bearing height. Upper, I had to grind upper cup that holds upper bearing. Yes there is appox 2mm gap as you noticed, Trig, but easy to fix, either rubber or stainless washer with right thickness.
Handling is heavily improved! Especially later, no maintenance, much longer lifetime. On my CBF1000F it finally fixed many years present issue of hadlebar wobbling.
--- End quote ---
It will not make any difference if you grind the upper cup as, the bearing sits proud and you can't grind the bearing.
I have made up some new spacer washers at 2.5mm thick which reduces the 2mm gap at the headlight bracket to leave a 0.5mm gap. The head light bracket rubbers need to be compressed by 0.5 mm on the top and bottom rubbers to stop the headlight brackets vibrating and causing the headlight bulbs to blow. I can't find that extra 1.5mm don't matter what i do ;)
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Erny:
2 rubber washers will make it. That's the way I did. I also have ready washers made for this purpose from stainless steel with several thickness. If you want some, tell me height you need to cover, I can send you some in evelope
Bryanj:
Ive got 2 frames on the bench both with hy level bearings, i will let you know when i find the bottom yolks to fit up
Trigger:
cheers for the offer Erny.
In these tapper bearing kits it is the top roller and cup that is too deep. As a result of this you will only get the top nut on 1 and a 1/4 threads and the ears are not a good fit. I have gone back to the old ball race OEM type and now the top nut is 4 and a 1/2 turns on and the headlight brackets fit perfectly ;)
The ideal pack washer on the bottom is 3mm and who ever made up these kits needs to look at them again. But, they are only using tapper bearings that are available on the market. The only way I could get a extra turn on the top nut was to use a thinner washer but, still not enough thread.
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K2-K6:
Contemporarily, many of us near him bought taper roller kits from Dave Degens at his Dresda shop over in Putney.
He bought the standard size bearings and then had a machine shop grind one of them to make a straight swap from factory fit to comprise the kit. So that fits in with your experience here Trig.
Must admit that I didn't pay much attention to exactly what he modded but fitted a fair few kits to friends bikes then. Always no adaption needed, and all installed as original kit. Seem to remember that the bearing id was missing from one of the faces, suggesting that they'd just been mounted of a mag base and skimmed with a linear surface grinder.
Probably a little market here for correct set nowadays, that would fit properly as most seam to come up with the problem you observe.
I've always felt as Erny does, they make a good mod for these bikes and are much move resilient than ball races.
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