UK 500 fixer upper

[Bryanj]

HINT if you are fitting taper roller head races the washer/spacer supplied is too think you need a 1mm shim washer. I bought a few 30x42x0.5 shim washers from ebay and used 2

[mickandsej]

Would these do?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Bryanj]

Probably, i bought more because i have a few to do and i had no idea at time how thick the spacer needed to be tolerances might mean you need 3.

[mickandsej]

Stripped the headstock....
Made a ball catcher rig


These vinyl wrap magnets have been invaluable on loads of projects, expensive for what they are but bloody useful



Only problem was 17 balls top, 17 bottom so a bit short. The races are chewed so I can’t re use anything. More bodgery betrayed by the loose lock ring, although there was no slop, only grumbling.

I can also recommend this liquid for degreasing, far better than its intended use, at 20% alcohol it kinda interferes with the D&A policy at work, and it stings!




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[mickandsej]

Spent the day working through electrical stuff as I’m held up waiting for head races. Stripped back the front outer loom to find it very wet, a lot of old tape etc. Worst bit was when I took the ignition switch off and found the whole sub loom was wet, taped to death and twisted connections on both ends! Glad I bought a new soldering iron..
The new coils fitted best with the HT leads pointing forwards, is it best to run the leads back over the rocker box and p clip them there? Can they be cut? I’ve also found a light green wired female bullet, looks OEM, under the coils, and I don’t know what it’s for!
I’ve also laid a fused heavy wire from the solenoid to the headlight bowl, and ordered some micro relays so I can beef up the lights & horn.
New pads ordered as the half worn ones were sticking in the caliper and a bit chewed up. Piston good just new seal and rattle can job to do. New hoses and line to go on as old one was rock hard.
Got to replace the throttle cables, stripped down and found lithium grease on the grip end, is it ok to regrease when refitting?
Tacho cable screw stripped in the head so that’ll have to stay there for now.
Still enjoying it, I’m getting more disciplined with hobbying it rather than working against the clock :-)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Bryanj]

Make sure the seal groove in caliper is surgicaly clean especialy in the corners. Dental picks or similar are best

[mickandsej]

Having slept on it, the main reason to strip the caliper was a dragging brake - on inspection this was clearly caused by the pad not the piston, the pad was rusted around the edge and possibly even a few thou too big. The piston was pristine, the cylinder also. It wasn’t leaking before so I think I’ll be best just reassembling rather than risk a bodged seal...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Bryanj]

This is an old system, you would not believe the amount of crud that gets into the seal groove making it too tight on the piston, it is only the twist in the seal as you apply the brake that retracts the piston so everything needs to be done.
Ive done 3 in the last month, all had solid brake fluid crud in the seal corners

[hairygit]

I agree with Bryan, replace the seal, in the great scheme of things they are cheap. What price do you put on your life? With a new seal and a thorough clean of the groove it sits in, clean the meatal edge around the circumference of the pad, (,even if you're fitting new pads!) smear the metal edge of the pad with a little bit of copper grease and don't forget to clean and grease the pivot, then you will have a safe reliable brake again.

Sent from my POT-LX1 using Tapatalk

[Johnwebley]

Make sure the seal groove in caliper is surgicaly clean especialy in the corners. Dental picks or similar are best

You can use an old broken ring to clean the groove

Sent from my SM-A750FN using Tapatalk

[deltarider]

... don't forget to clean and grease the pivot...

Mwah.. I'd check its movement first. If it swings nicely like mine still does after 44 years, I'd leave it alone.

[florence]

In the last 25 years of riding my bike I have found periodically that the front brake starts to drag.  It has happened four times now and it is always the piston/seal and corrosion.  It is very easy and cheap to repair.  Take caliper off bike with brake pipe still attached, gently operate the lever until the piston pops out, give the inside a really good clean, buy a new piston and seal, fairly cheap, reassemble and bleed brakes.  It is an afternoon's work and you will be thanking yourself for taking the trouble and will have good brakes for another five or so years, more if you don't ride in the winter salt.

[mickandsej]

Consensus wins
Having a look at the ignition switch harness, I think you’d call it hotwired.... Surprised it even ran like this!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Rozabikes Tim]

'kin spiders!

[Oggie400F]

Consensus wins
Having a look at the ignition switch harness, I think you’d call it hotwired.... Surprised it even ran like this!
[img width=750 height=1000]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200630/b4acb9ca2d361834a2cdb92fb7bdc369.jpg[/img

I had exactly the same issue with my 500 ignition switch.
Nothing that a bit of soldering and heat shrink sleeve won’t cure.
See the link. http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,22507.0.html