My CB550 K3 Restore Project

[heli_madken]

Doing bits on my project in between other jobs, got some more parts painted and done some work on the clutch cover.

I was looking at the MOT history of this bike, over the past 15 years she has been in Ipswich, Chesterfield and Dumfries. In that time a total of only 96 miles was added, one year just 2 miles must have been to get to the MOT station. Amazing that in the few weeks I have had the bike before taking it off the road for the rebuild I did more than that. Personally I dont get why you would buy a bike in 2012 and only do 47 miles on it through to 2020 and in that time just leave it out in the weather but hey, health issues or other problems I guess.

Somebody did have a go at improving the bike in the past though as every JIS head bolt has been replaced with 'Stainless' HEX head which have all rusted and worse still welded themselves to the aluminium, almost every bolt has to be coaxed out.

Clutch cover was in a bit of a state -
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

It was very badly pitted so has taken a lot of work to get to this stage, bit more to do yet -
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

I know not everyone likes this look for their bike as it certainly isn't original but I kind of like the achievement of bringing something back to life, a future owner could always paint now if they wished.

Pressing on with black parts which have all been stripped, flatted, any remaining rust not able to be removed has been converted, etched primed, primed and 2K gloss black, looks like 'Duck Apple Night' in my garage -
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

Next up is the very sorry looking final drive cover, underneath though ughh -
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

Sure this is probably quite normal but some advice on a good de-greaser would be appreciated. I bought some stuff from Machine Mart that had rave reviews but it might as well be water. I have struggled getting this engine clean so any tips would be great

[K2-K6]

"Sure this is probably quite normal but some advice on a good de-greaser would be appreciated. I bought some stuff from Machine Mart that had rave reviews but it might as well be water. I have struggled getting this engine clean so any tips would be great"

Straight paraffin is pretty effective to remove grease from cases etc.

But steam cleaning works really well,  that's not jet washed but low pressure steam to get the grime off gently.  HGV places that prep for vehicle inspection usually run them and may be persuaded to do a small quick clean for you.

[AndyD]

I've been using No-Nonsense degreaser from Screwfix in my parts washer for a while now and quite impressed with it.
Reasonable cost, not too stinky or nasty and seems to work well.
I did have some of the Machine mart stuff when I first bought the parts washer and remember it being pricey, useless in action and also went 'off' after being left for a while.
Cheers,
Andy

[heli_madken]

I've been using No-Nonsense degreaser from Screwfix in my parts washer for a while now and quite impressed with it.

Perfect Andy much better than anything else I have been using thanks.

So I thought I had better stop buggering about polishing stuff-
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

 and get down to splitting the case-
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

Came apart ok, I used the trolley jack method to get the initial split which worked well.

Think I was lucky to get the top bolt in the picture below out. The bolt below (top left rear near the final drive housing) had already been sheared by someone, its going to be a bugger to get whats left out as it is deep down within the case, if I cant get it I think I may use a timesert and a shorter bolt.
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

On the subject of bolts can anyone recommend replacement stainless kits for engine and chassis?

Everything looks ok internally and in good shape, gears look great and shells/journals all look fine-
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

Looks like the primary drive chain was just starting to hit the case to me?
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

I am going to replace all seals, is it worth also replacing all the needle and roller bearings?

[heli_madken]

So I started the difficult task of removing all the crud from the cases, had a go at the sump and underneath the coating of filth was this-
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

Bodged with JBWeld, amazing it held together but how stupid is that, imagine it letting go at 70 MPH.

I cant find one in the UK but ordered one from the US, as a standby has anyone got a spare lying round?

Back to removing grime!

[Bryanj]

You really couldnt get one in UK? All 500/550 are the same

[Nurse Julie]

No sump pans in the UK, I find it very difficult, in fact impossible, to believe that 🤔🤔🤔🤔

[heli_madken]

Bugger, never thought of looking for 500, found one straight away in the UK at a good price, cheers

[Laverda Dave]

With regards to the broken crankcase bolt, have you thought about getting the remaining part of the bolt out by spark erosion? Pete Lovell Developments in Smethwick can probably do it. Pete got the dowls out of my CB250RSA rocker cover by the same method. If was me I would get the whole bolt out, Honda put a bolt of that length in for a reason and no doubt if they could have made it shorter they would have.

[heli_madken]

Thanks Dave,

Tried hard over the last couple of days to get the remainder of the bolt out, heat, plus-gas, extractor etc but I think it was a dead loss. At some point in the past somebody was trying to get the bolt out to replace it with something or split the cases and sheared it off. Rather than deal with the problem they just simply popped the broken bolt back in the hole and let gravity keep it there.

I think this in turn made the situation worse as now rain could get in easily.

So I bit the bullet and used a good sharp 8mm bit to drill out the rest of the bolt, it went well as the depth of the hole was a good guide for the bit. So I tapped out right to the bottom of the hole and put in an insert so I can follow your advice Dave and use a new 145mm bolt.

I am hoping that is the last of my stuck bolt issues on this project now

[Nurse Julie]

If you need a new replacement 90011-323-000. I hold stock of that flanged bolt .

[heli_madken]

If you need a new replacement 90011-323-000. I hold stock of that flanged bolt .

Damn already ordered, I definitely need to get used to this forum and all the services on offer, is there a page somewhere that I can see who offers what?

I havent yet ordered any gaskets/seals. Whats the best option for this? I am not a huge fan of aftermarket so should I order separates using Honda or OEM where possible? DS do a set for £65 - https://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/CB550K3/part_356529/ is this any good?

Also is it worth replacing the needle and roller bearings? how difficult is it to get the primary shaft bearing out of the case?

Lots of questions sorry!

[heli_madken]

Sump came today, very good condition and very clean. Only problem is the plug has been put in with some form of sealer and wont come out -

[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

No criticism of the seller intended, the price was very fair and it was cleaned up well.

Tried heat and reasonable force but I am to scared to give it some beans for fear of ending up back at square one. Is the problem I had with the original a common one, I found one more post with the same problem. Out of interest I tried putting the plug back in to the correct torque and got nowhere near it before it failed.

I am thinking of leaving well alone for now and just accepting that I will have to drop the sump to change the oil and keep an eye out for another replacement.

[Johnny4428]

That is annoying! But very common for people to seize it up (or seal it up) to stop it leaking rather than invest in a new sealing washer. I think a good heat and give it wellie. It’s not going to come out otherwise.

[Bryanj]

Its because people, instead of spending 50p, re use the alloy sealing washer so many times it deforms badly and the bolt is tightened even more again and again and again