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K1 full restoration begins
Trigger:
It can be a very expensive hobby trying to remove these. Stud A is still available at about £15 each and there are 12 of those. Stud B has not been available for many years. Add in the cost of spark eroding at £25 a pop and you are looking at a shed load of money, just to replace something that with a good clean could be good to go ;)
WestYorkshireBiker:
--- Quote from: Trigger on August 28, 2020, 07:15:53 PM ---It can be a very expensive hobby trying to remove these. Stud A is still available at about £15 each and there are 12 of those. Stud B has not been available for many years. Add in the cost of spark eroding at £25 a pop and you are looking at a shed load of money, just to replace something that with a good clean could be good to go ;)
--- End quote ---
Thanks. Another question! I'm struggling to remove the front engine mount bolt. All the others came out no probs. It's just a straight through bolt right? Can't turn the head after heat and brute force. Don't want to get the big hammer out either just yet!
Edit: nevermind. Bolt sheared off despite my heat cycling and gentle persuasion.... Thanks.
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WestYorkshireBiker:
--- Quote from: WestYorkshireBiker on August 29, 2020, 04:16:52 PM ---
--- Quote from: Trigger on August 28, 2020, 07:15:53 PM ---It can be a very expensive hobby trying to remove these. Stud A is still available at about £15 each and there are 12 of those. Stud B has not been available for many years. Add in the cost of spark eroding at £25 a pop and you are looking at a shed load of money, just to replace something that with a good clean could be good to go ;)
--- End quote ---
Thanks. Another question! I'm struggling to remove the front engine mount bolt. All the others came out no probs. It's just a straight through bolt right? Can't turn the head after heat and brute force. Don't want to get the big hammer out either just yet!
Edit: nevermind. Bolt sheared off despite my heat cycling and gentle persuasion.... Thanks.
Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
--- End quote ---
Successful day. Finally got the K6 lump out. Onwards and upwards..
Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
WestYorkshireBiker:
--- Quote from: WestYorkshireBiker on August 30, 2020, 04:11:54 PM ---
--- Quote from: WestYorkshireBiker on August 29, 2020, 04:16:52 PM ---
--- Quote from: Trigger on August 28, 2020, 07:15:53 PM ---It can be a very expensive hobby trying to remove these. Stud A is still available at about £15 each and there are 12 of those. Stud B has not been available for many years. Add in the cost of spark eroding at £25 a pop and you are looking at a shed load of money, just to replace something that with a good clean could be good to go ;)
--- End quote ---
Thanks. Another question! I'm struggling to remove the front engine mount bolt. All the others came out no probs. It's just a straight through bolt right? Can't turn the head after heat and brute force. Don't want to get the big hammer out either just yet!
Edit: nevermind. Bolt sheared off despite my heat cycling and gentle persuasion.... Thanks.
Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
--- End quote ---
Successful day. Finally got the K6 lump out. Onwards and upwards..
Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
--- End quote ---
Mmmm oily...
Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
WestYorkshireBiker:
--- Quote from: AshimotoK0 on August 13, 2020, 08:40:16 AM ---These are the two Service Bulletins you need ..they came originally from BryanJ..... Why Honda never ammended the main Shop Manual with this information beats me. My original '69 diecast crank had the Japanese chracaters stamped on the con-rods but yours are something different.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
--- End quote ---
Hey. Been away a while I'm now back on the rebuild. So I'm still stuck with identifying the con rod bearings. I've got the journal ones worked out but for the con rods that came out if the engine I don't know how to find the shell colour as the rods are not marked as per the manuals. e.g the rods all have '2/29 (or 28)' marked on one side and nothing on the other side. All rods are marked 'S30F' and looking at the bullitins look like the 'new' type with the numbers on.
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