SOHC.co.uk Forums > CB350/400
Kill Switch 400/4
Lobo:
The 2 photos showing coil connections seem OK to me.
The 3rd photo is a little confusing as things difficult to make out.
But.... it appears that the Kill switch 12v supply (Male / Black) connector has been disconnected and is floating free. (there is potential for a short circuit here - it should be insulated / taped up)
Normally, Black would never be directly connected to Black / White, and because you have this, I (still) reckon the PO has bypassed the (faulty?) Kill switch and wired the coils directly to the ignition. (Ie 12v Ignition Black now directly feeds the coil Black/White supply line.)
(The White wire is normally the 12v supply from the Lo Beam switch to the headlamp bulb, and is not part of this problem. I’ve no idea of Orange / White and Blue / White wires; Orange and Blue are normally L & R Indicator supplies: my guess is your loom may have options for American running lights - which would explain why they’re not used?)
As I see it, you need to ascertain whether the Kill switch is serviceable as described in my earlier post. If not you’ve 2 choices... continue as you are (being mindful of burning out the coils) or replacing / repairing the Kill switch.
hairygit:
--- Quote from: Macabethiele on November 10, 2020, 08:06:22 AM ---Aside from your mates overtaking you and activating your kill switch it has always baffled me as to its purpose.
I do not recall any of my Mopeds,Scooters or British Bikes having such a device though my memory could be defective. That said if its fitted I want it to work!
--- End quote ---
The reason was safety, probably to satisfy the U.S. market. If you came off the bike and the engine stayed running it was a fire risk or the engine could rev uncontrollably due to the carbs flooding. If the bike was down on it's left side, you couldn't turn it off as the ignition switches at the time were fitted below the front of the tank, so it gave somebody an easy way to kill the motor.
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Bryanj:
The orange/white and blue/white are the US front running lights, kill switch was just an easy way to stop engine without burning your fingers on the exhaust when fiddling for the ignition switch
smoothoperator:
--- Quote from: Lobo on November 09, 2020, 10:52:13 PM ---You’re on the right track; you need to place the Red probe onto the B/W wire under the tank, and the Black probe onto the battery negative (or KNOWN good Earth). (Black circle in the pic). The ignition will need to be ON.
The B/W wire has two possible connectors you can use; either the one in the ‘boot’ forward LHS of the tank (Blue circle in the pic).... or by the coils where the feed splits (Red circle in the pic). (you do not need to disconnect the connectors, tho’ a slightly lower voltage reading will result)
An odd failure: my early guess is that the kill switch (or it’s wiring) has failed in the past, and the PO has simply directly connected the coils to the ignition, bypassing the kill switch circuit.
To test the Kill Switch functioning, you’ll need to disconnect both its Black and B/W connectors within the boot. (These are both within the Blue circle).
(To set the meter select the lowest Ohms range, and touch the probes together - you should see close to 0 ohms.)
Now put the probes across the Black MALE and B/W FEMALE connectors of the kill switch, and check its continuity in the OFF / ON / OFF positions. In OFF you should see Infinite ohms (open circuit), and in ON you should see close to 0 ohms.
Wiggle the handlebars / loom whilst doing this check, see if anything changes... bad loom etc.
The Kill switch is indeed a pain to remove / service. As a starter for 10 it might just be worth shooting a good squirt of WD40 into into any nearby switch orifice!
Good luck...
PS - whilst the safety implications are obvious, in this current state of ‘permanent’ Kill function ON you may burn out a coil / flatten the battery when the ignition is ON & engine not running for any length of time.
--- End quote ---
Did the first test and it gave around 11.5V.
Didn't do the second test as the b/w from the handle bar goes to a grey wire rather than another b/w. I have added 3 more labelled images which might help the expert eye.
I can see from the wiring diagram that the ignition to the horn, I think I have this in one of my images. I mention this because the horn button is missing. I opened up the left hand switchgear expecting to see remnants of the horn, however, it is completely missing, 3 cut wires bare the only evidence to its former existence. Given that these are as I understand it unavailable, I will probably be fitting a new, copy left hand switch. Correction, I was thinking of horn button, switch assemblies are available.
New images added:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/AvCtaW7HwqH5YLcx6
Lobo:
Hi again.
It would seem there’s a bit more to your wiring dilemma when you talk of cut / bare wires within the L handle bar switchgear, and really you should be considering a complete overhaul of the loom / switches as reconnecting things iaw the book may well just liven up previous cut & dangling wires.
... which was going to be my first suggestion; ie connect the loom up as designed, meaning colours can only connect to the same, and NEVER mismatched. Eg B/W to B/W, Black to Black.... NOT Black to Grey etc. If you’ve (eg) 3 Black Females floating in the headlamp bowl (wherever) and 3 Black Males, you needn’t worry where each is from / going to, you just connect them.
The above said, when checking the functioning of the Kill Switch, you DO need its specific Black feed wire as in total, there are 3 Black wires going to this RH switch gear.. ie the Kill switch, Engine Starter & Headlamp.
It’s all getting complicated - sorry. A quicker check of the kill switch might be to connect the two Black/Greys together, and also ensure ALL Blacks are connected (ie none left floating around). Then, with the Ignition ON, and VOLTAGE Scale dialed in, put the Red probe into the B/W Coil connector, and the Black probe on the battery -ve.... as you did recently. Flip the kill switch and hope to see 0V / 11.4V / 0V.
(I reiterate though. Doing the above MAY liven up some various ‘loose ends’ given your bike seems to have been badly messed with - and cause blown fuses etc)
You might be better to seek local hands-on advice?
Cheers,
Simon
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