Just one part left to remove from the frame Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

I've read previous posts on this conundrum so clearly removing the centre stand is always going to be difficult on a 42 year old bike.

Presently soaking each end with WD40 whilst I give it some deep thought - next might be my Calor Gas Plumbers Torch for heat.

Presumably I can saw throught the tube at the flanged end and it might come out without having to saw through the split pin end ?

Thus with stand off I can have fun with a long hack saw blade throught the tube !

http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,16469.msg138687.html#msg138687

[mickwinf]

these are often seized in the stand, i ended up cutting through the tube at both ends so i could lift the stand off without bending the mounting brackets. It is then easier to get at and apply some heat and push it out, or even as i had to do on one bike, cut through the tube length wise with a hacksaw. good luck!

[AndyD]

Ted,
I had exactly the same problem on the CJ250T and ended up cutting the tube both ends to avoid damaging the brackets.
The replacement pivot I got is solid rather than hollow and fits fine so at least there is a solution for the problem.
Good luck

Cheers,
Andy
PS I did try many approaches to loosening the bolt first as well as copious swearing but it wasn't giving in until the hacksaw came out!

[waffey]

had to cut my 1977 stand off.

I then tried to get the tube out by sawing through it, gave that up as I didn't have the patients for it. sourced a second-hand stand that was all freed upped, bought the new solid pin and installed that. jobs a goodin......less time sawing and swearing, more time drinking"!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

to be fare I always way up time taken versus buying something after time is money.

enjoy the sawing!

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Well it took me about 30 minutes to get the stand off, heat did nothing so I cut through the flanged end of the tube first.
When it came to the split pin side it was difficult to get my saw in anywhere so I used a previously bent steel cutting cylinder in my drill. The cutter was a bit wider than the inside diameter of the tube so I just ground away until it left a very thin wall on the tube end section. I was then able to wiggle the stand out as the thin wall collapsed.

Just left with getting the remainder of the tube out of the stand section - now time to go back to thinking mode. Strikes me I need to perhaps get it pressed out ?

[smoothoperator]

Sounds like a challenging job. Lots of posts on the stand being difficult. Nearly there by the sound of it though Ted.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Just cut a slot in it with a hacksaw blade Ted, dismount the blade, run it through the tube and remount, as soon as the blade cuts through the tube the entire length the tube will collapse on it's self very slightly, it will then just knock out no problem. Same system works with swinging arm bearings although that usually needs a forward mounted hacksaw blade

I plan to do as you have suggested then probably use a threaded rod to get it moving initially.

Just need to keep the blade as level as possible to avoid cuttting into the stand though a little groove might help lubrication when it goes back together.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Just cut a slot in it with a hacksaw blade Ted, dismount the blade, run it through the tube and remount, as soon as the blade cuts through the tube the entire length the tube will collapse on it's self very slightly, it will then just knock out no problem. Same system works with swinging arm bearings although that usually needs a forward mounted hacksaw blade

So far so bad ! I tried some threaded bar and heat---nada.

I've done the saw cut and nothing has collapsed in on itself tonight. Started doing a second cut nearby to help the collapsing but its still solid. Too tired to do any more tonight - wish I had a 15 mm steel drill bit that would thin the walls somewhat.

I can see the temptation in buying a used stand that has been sorted !!

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

In the end I resorted to violence using a 15mm masonry bit with the SCS in hammer mode only it finally  let go! Thanks for the encouragement everyone!

[K2-K6]

In the end I resorted to violence using a 15mm masonry bit with the SCS in hammer mode only it finally  let go! Thanks for the encouragement everyone!

I find this with most things that are well stuck or corroded.

Far from being the most brutal,  it seems just more insistent in applying vibration to the work piece and avoids the significant blows a heavy hammer will apply.

I've been using (by making up special adapters) this method for moving things in fairly light structures that I didn't want to damage.

[Bryanj]

A hot spanner is your friend in a lot of these cases



Oxy- Acetyleme

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

This is a "Dead Pivot" as opposed to Parrot


Stand pivot tube by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr