Honda CB750K5 Restoration by Royhall

[royhall]

Thanks Ash. I have just ordered a set of the CMS ones for just under £100. I asked a reviewer on the site and he said they were as good as originals which is a bold claim. We shall see when they arrive, but they are the correct USA switches as fitted now. I'm asking everybody if they have a spare K5 grab bar, failing that it's back to CMS for a repro one. I have only ordered the switches from CMS as a test to see what the import charges are going to work out at, but I noted they dropped the P&P down to a reasonable level.

[royhall]

To be honest I'm not sure why I'm so bothered by the switches. I'm on job number 6 and they are about job number 687, but for some reason they are on my mind.

Edit. Just realised that these are the things I either don't want to do myself or can't. Carbs, switches, clocks. My subconscious appears to be removing these jobs. How weird's that, and I never realised it.

[royhall]

Just received the NOVA number from the import agent. What's the routine these days for registering an import, it's been quite a few years since I did the last one and these things tend to change. The bike is nearly apart so is it better to wait for the bike to be complete or can I do it now. I have the official USA title for it and now the NOVA number. I would like to get it done now as looking at other posts it's taking ages, or is that just asking for trouble.

[Sesman]

I can help here.

Fill in the V55 and append the NOVA number and VJMC letter of authentication. For VJMC you will need to supply engine number, frame number and photos of the bike, substantially complete- see their website for guidance.

The DVLA and customs have a common database, so it’s only the NOVA registration number they need.

The V55 is tricky and is populated by masses of superfluous information requests. Incorrectly complete this and you will enter a world of pain. I can provide a tick box guide if necessary.

Regards

[royhall]

Thanks for that. Why would I need a VJMC letter of authentication when I have the original USA title, that was always enough on previous bikes, has that changed.

[Bryanj]

If the title has the correct year on it it should do, if its different you will need the dating letter. Note DVLA wil NOT return the US title.

[Sesman]

Strange, they returned mine!

[royhall]

The bike is very nearly apart now. After a two day soaking in PlusGas every nut and bolt came out without a fight which makes a nice change. The problem now is I'm already working in a cramped environment and a bike in pieces takes up a ton of space, so it's all pretty compact in here. To that end I am working on getting parts out for plating/painting etc as quickly as possible.

The engine will have to stay in the frame for now. I usually remove the engine by sitting it on the right hand side and lifting the frame off the engine. The problem I have just now is the points cover, although dented, is recoverable so I don't want to damage it further. As I don't fancy shelling out £300 for a NOS item I have bought a badly damaged cover off eBay for £3 so am waiting for that to arrive to protect the engine whilst on it's side.

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[Oddjob]

You modding the frame before painting so you can get the head off in the frame Roy?

[royhall]

You modding the frame before painting so you can get the head off in the frame Roy?

No I'm not going to bother this time. I did a mod on my 750F2 about 7 years ago because of the valve guide issues with that model and to date I have not had to use it. Although I also did a valve guide fix from the USA (cant remember the name of the place now) so am not expecting to go in there any time soon.

Edit:
Cycle exchange or Cycle X is the USA company that does the valve guide upgrade (Kibblewhite). Took over an hour to remember that, that's why I don't do pub quizzes any more.

[royhall]

Although the tank looks really rough I still have hopes of it being reusable. It looks a bit rusty inside but it appears solid. I have taken it to a place in Preston for stripping and phosphating. They assure me that it will remove all the paint and filler and the rust inside and out. The guy thought it was pretty funny that the tank had already started stripping itself, and also thinks there may be a number of dents. It will be ready in two weeks so I will see then if it can be reused.

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[royhall]

I have assembled all the chromed parts that are reusable. I have got a price off my usual chromer but unfortunately I am requested to not post who it is on the forum. I guess they are already too busy to handle the extra workload. He says he will only do mine because he's already done my others. I think that is probably the most words he has ever strung together at one time. He isn't a man of many words. He's quoted me £375 for the 18 items in the picture. The way chroming prices have gone I was expecting double that so happy days. And he is removing the small dents in the front mudguard and the points cover in that price. Next up will be to get the engine out so that I can get the alloy polishing and zinc plating out the door.

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[Oddjob]

I doubt the fork caps or rear brake lever will come out great Roy, unless he’s a magician, little pitted to say the least.

Interesting about the strippers in Preston, care to share the name, might have a trip up there.

[royhall]

I doubt the fork caps or rear brake lever will come out great Roy, unless he’s a magician, little pitted to say the least.

Interesting about the strippers in Preston, care to share the name, might have a trip up there.

Yes I am being a bit hopeful about them, I guess I will just have to wait and see. The stripping company is Ribble Technology (Preston) Ltd, 2 Brierley Street, Ashton-on-Ribble, Preston. PR2-2AU. Telephone 01772 202227.

[Oddjob]

If the caps don’t work out or come back really pitted I have some hard chromed ones for a CB550F2 that may fit, not sure if leg diameters are the same. Or some brand new stainless ones that look like they are chrome they are so polished.