Help! What's caused this?

[Laverdaroo]

Bristol Badgers is a K3 Trigg

[Trigger]

Bristol Badgers is a K3 Trigg

Will be OK for early K3 

[Laverdaroo]

Bristol Badgers is a K3 Trigg

Will be OK for early K3 

I’ve not dealt with these and he asked if he should soak it in oil as the chap at the shop advised. Is that the norm, it seems a terribly messy way of fitting a gasket??
Never heard of doing that before, surely not??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Bryanj]

Never on a head gasket

[Bristolbadger]

Bristol Badgers is a K3 Trigg

Will be OK for early K3 

Good stuff, I wouldn't have had a prob taking it back to the guy if it wasn't a fit, just a shame I can't afford the MLS type HG same as I had on before.. it got de-lammed when I took the head off.

So what's the crack with these type, smear with oil, spray with copper coat or just put it on as dry as a Jackob's cracker?

I've now got the cases opened up and ready for some forensic cleaning... I've cut a 50gal plastic drum in half and plan to give her internals a spray rinse with something first.... but what? Diesel, Gunk, paraffin? then to spray every orifice and oil gallery with parts cleaner before reassembly.

Info appreciated

[Trigger]

Yes, that gasket will fit. You never know what the crank cases have fitted to it. I have had a K0 crank cases with, K5 barrels and a F1 head before.
As Bryan has already stated, head gasket on dry.

There are many oil ways on a 750, main crank case, inside the crank, gearbox shafts, rocker towers, head, barrels. I wash in my parts wash using bottle brushes of all different sizes and a good blow out at 200 psi of air 

[Bristolbadger]

Thanks Trigger, dry it is then for the HG.

I've been busy cleaning up the head and blowing out all the oil routes and opened up the cases for a pressure rinse of white spirit and further manual cleaning!!! ... inbetween a job interview and work/fam commits...

Is it possible to flush an oil pump sufficiently without dismantling?






Sent from my SM-A515F using Tapatalk

[Trigger]

Always better to strip the pump down to clean it out and replace the seals if you did not do before. The pump is the heart of your engine and must run at full pressure 

[Bristolbadger]

Hi folks, hope everyone's well and good!

So my run of good luck continues... this time the bastard, made-of-toffee, clutch lifter plate! Yep I broke it last night after being careful and taking my time to make sure it all was aligned... got to the final bolt torqueing (8ft lbs prob too much in hind sight) and snapped the plate. 

So.... anyone have a spare they could part with please?

Badger

[Trigger]

Never broken one as to date. You will have to get one from Andy >>>
https://good-bits.co.uk/product/cb750-sohc-clutch-actuating-hub/

[Oddjob]

It's a 550 IIRC Graham, those are made of steel I think. Never heard of one snapping yet, must have put one bolt right down and sheared it off. Always do them a little at a time and rotate amongst them.

[Bristolbadger]

And there I was, thinking I'll not fall foul of the damn lifter plate tightening this time... only to hear the sickening 'tick' as it snapped. Might have to bite the bullet and go for one of those Trigger 

[Oddjob]

It's for  a 750, won't fit yours.

Edit.

Sorry, for some reason I was convinced yours was a 550, no idea why.

Yes that will fit.

[Bristolbadger]

Hi folks, so after a few minor hiccups during the strip, clean and rebuild I've managed to get the old girl back together.

Not the quietest engine around and need to reset the tensioner and recheck the valve clearances but she is what she is, a grumbling 48yr old lol.

So, lessons learnt ... I'm going to dump the oil and refill after a bit more running and a gentle mile or so. I first span her over with plugs out and got the oil pump doing its job after a moment or two and heard oil squelching up into the head, then fired her up and took the cover caps off expecting to see a lot of oil flinging around.
Whilst there is some (more of a fine mist) and everything looks wet and nice fresh oil coated, I just wondered if I should be seeing more going on up there?

Here's a vid - soz about the dodgy camerawork I had a torch in one hand, phone in the other and a beer that needed drinking on the ground 

https://youtu.be/22DMBzUvSvE

Sent from my SM-A515F using Tapatalk

[K2-K6]

Nice work to get going again.

The oil is not that much (in quantity terms) demanded around the camshaft. Most importantly is always to be there, present and reliable to keep it from damaging itself.

It's why they will run for a few miles after rebuilding originally that the assembly oil is sufficient until it goes dry that shows this. So as long as the supply is constant it won't show much in the way of total amount flying around in there.

They control the feed volume with those two restrictions and the leak down back to sump by the little pools created by casting to dip the cam lobes into, along with the drain holes going back down through the head.

Just keep checking the oil is there for each run initially to give you confidence that it's always there and that should be ok at that.