Lubrication

[Oggers]

Staedy progress rebuilding the bottom end. New balancer chain on - thanks Oddjob - various seals replaced, crankcases given new coat of paint etc etc.

Both crankcase covers are now also on in preparartion for top end rebuild. However, I did not lube up the new balancer chain before fitting the right hand cover. Does this matter? - as I assume as soon as bike starts up, oil will start thrashing about over the chain anyways?

[Bryanj]

You are correct with that

[Oddjob]

There's enough oil on them from the factory to last for a few minutes until the engine oil gets there.

[Oggers]

Thanks folks - good to confirm things. As an aside I am using PJ1 satin black to recoat the barrels and head after soda-blasting them. I have to say I am not impressed. The colour is more like a flat dark grey, and despite curing in the oven and dangling the part over a portable gas fire, the paint is still very soft when cool. A fingernail scratches it. I may try barbecue paint instead.....

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Mabee Satin is too flat and gloss would be better?

[Oggers]

Gloss finish on the barrel/head of black engines looks awful! A genuine satin finish is fine, but despite the can saying satin it just is not.   

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Gloss finish on the barrel/head of black engines looks awful! A genuine satin finish is fine, but despite the can saying satin it just is not.   

Okay how about Matt black as opposed to stain it might be blacker?

[Oddjob]

I've used PJ1 satin black and it was exactly what it says it is.

Maybe you didn't shake the can enough.

[Laverda Dave]

I've used satin black before and it dried matt despite shaking the can until my arms fell off!
The second attempt worked, be sure to make the first coat a dust coat and give every coat a ten minute drying time and shake the can for at least one minute between coats (I actually put the can in a bucket of hot water between coats to keep the paint warm). The secret seems to be to be little and often in terms of paint build up.
I think you really need to cure it in the oven though where a constant 100c can be maintained for the hour or so it needs to cure, i've never had any problems with it flaking off after curing.

[Oggers]

Dave

Yes - defo more a matt than a satin finish. I too shook the can for ages, warmed the can in aforesaid bucket of hot water and heated the barrel over the portable gas fire until warm to the touch before spraying. I have since dangled the painted barrel over the gas fire again to cure further  - I dare not use the kitchen oven for fear of retribution - and it seems to have hardened off a little more...we shall see. I am still not impressed with the matt finish nor the not quite black colour though.

On this, I gave the head cover a coat of Plastikote BBQ paint. Better finish, certainly blacker and a little more satin sheen. I'll allow this to cure then compare and contrast. I also bought a can of Plastikote Woodburner paint. Colour seems just the same, but I may try it out on a sample piece of scrap to judge if that is any better.

 

[Sesman]

I’d be surprised if the ‘dangling’ strategy will work. I’ve only ever had success with HT products by air drying for 24 hours at temps above 15deg, then oven curing at temps between 90degC and 200deg c for not less than 60mins.

[Oggers]

Dangling the part over a portable gas fire seems to work just fine for curing the Plastikote paint at least. You may be sure I will be dangling from the end of a rope were I to use the oven.

I am open to other suggestions for heating the part to such high temperatures.....

[Sesman]

  .I know what you mean.

 I’ve considered buying a ‘used’ electric oven. I think Oddjob of this parish created a curing oven. Try a search ?

[Oddjob]

No wasn't me. I remember it though, maybe Ash, he's the Mad Professor on here.

[Sesman]

Twas Phil ward. Do a “ Curing paint” search.