Carbs Install

[Martin6]

Yes, switch still on the bike. I really don't fancy taking the wiring out of the 'bars. Seems to make it a bigger job, as I'd have to remove the wiring from the top of the switchgear too and get into the headlight bowl?

I actually dreamt about this last night 

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

So it's not just me who goes to bed and dreams of how much is involved in fixing something! 🤔🤔🤔

I am an overthinker so sometimes  see a load of problems rather than the outcome / solutions.

Once you get into the headlamp bowl take plenty of photos & make notes on wiring colours and if a connector is male or female. Once you have identified the switch cable wires and disconnected them you can pull that small bunch out of the headlamp & refit the bowl to keep it in place.

Pulling out the wires from the bars is pretty easy you can attach a piece of string  at the end so when the wiring is out you have a length of string in place.  You can carry out the repair as Julie has said so much easier in the house or on a garage bench.

When fitting back might be easier to loosen the bars so you can rotate them to see your wires as they start to exit the bars - I used some surgical forceps to tease the ends out.

An alternative is to use a length of old nett curtain rail spring as a lead - it works a treat.

[Martin6]

Yep, I'm going to have to pull it off. I've packed it back up a few times and turn the ignition and the starter kicks straight in. Maybe the plastic retainer might not be holding the copper earth firmly enough, so the spring pushes it onto the positive plate..it does look ropey. Or maybe a short in the wiring, after all my attempts.

[Martin6]

We have our UK K6 on the ramp for it's yearly service. The UK K6 has the sprung screw fitted to the switch.

I have taken some pictures of the switch and a switch that has been taken apart so, you can see how the Yellow/Red and the black are connected .

Julie,

Can i ask a question on your photos?

Your 3rd photo shows a metal plate angled away from the starter switch, underneathe it? Screwed into the bottom of the switchgear case. I don't have that, but I do have a metal pin in the hole next to it in your photo, which locates into the handlebar, to stop the switchgear rotating. Do i need that angled metal plate? Or is it just a different version?

Many thanks,

Martin.

[Nurse Julie]

We have our UK K6 on the ramp for it's yearly service. The UK K6 has the sprung screw fitted to the switch.

I have taken some pictures of the switch and a switch that has been taken apart so, you can see how the Yellow/Red and the black are connected .

Julie,

Can i ask a question on your photos?

Your 3rd photo shows a metal plate angled away from the starter switch, underneathe it? Screwed into the bottom of the switchgear case. I don't have that, but I do have a metal pin in the hole next to it in your photo, which locates into the handlebar, to stop the switchgear rotating. Do i need that angled metal plate? Or is it just a different version?

Many thanks,

Martin.

Hi Martin. I have absolutely no idea what that bit is, or what it does, I just found that switchgear to show you the start button on a twin wire system. My thought on it though is that it's an earth tab as the switchgear obviously needs to be earthed. If your switch gear has the pin to locate into the handlebars, that would be the earth point.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

I believe it's the ramp to tension against the throttle screw on the throttle control - you can see the silver screw in the picture (second picture) - it gives you idle speed adjustment on the handlebars ?

They fall out of position easily when you undo the clamp.

[Oddjob]

We have our UK K6 on the ramp for it's yearly service. The UK K6 has the sprung screw fitted to the switch.

I have taken some pictures of the switch and a switch that has been taken apart so, you can see how the Yellow/Red and the black are connected .

Julie,

Can i ask a question on your photos?

Your 3rd photo shows a metal plate angled away from the starter switch, underneathe it? Screwed into the bottom of the switchgear case. I don't have that, but I do have a metal pin in the hole next to it in your photo, which locates into the handlebar, to stop the switchgear rotating. Do i need that angled metal plate? Or is it just a different version?

Many thanks,

Martin.

That's a cable clamp Martin, the wires pass beneath it and would account for why yours are fouling the bars and getting trapped.

[Oddjob]

My switches are apart right now if you want a pic of how the starter button looks dismantled.

[Martin6]

My switches are apart right now if you want a pic of how the starter button looks dismantled.

Further pictures would always help.
- I think it will be crucial to get the angle right on the wiring, so it routes into the bars without getting trapped.
- Also be good to see the assembled white plastic piece a bit clearer. I can’t currently see how that is sufficient to stop the copper tab it holds from being pushed into the positive connection in the switch.
Thank you.

I have the wiring out, headlamp loom all labelled up and string through the bars. I can see the insulation on the two switch wires has opened up where the wires were entering the bars, so possibly they were shorting. I also have a concern that the plastic piece that holds the copper negative (earth) tab steady against the spring on the button spindle, may be too worn to stop the spring from pushing the earth tab onto the positive contact patch. Will have to think of a way to hold it, if that's the case. Will hopefully be easier to check in the kitchen.

I will try to pull some length of R/Y and Bk through the sheath to get to sound wire for the starter switch. But may have to cut it open. Shame, because the sheath looks ok.

Thanks for your comments and help.

Martin

[Nurse Julie]

I am not sure why you refer to a earth wire ? As the pictures that i have already posted have no earth wire 
Earth is the switch to handle bars. Black is live to the button and Yellow / Red is to the solenoid. The button is the connection between Black and Yellow sending a live signal to the solenoid .   

[Martin6]

Yep, my mistake. Thanks. I do mean the copper tab with the black wire attached. Guess I'm no auto electrician!

I'm wondering if the connection is wrongly being made by the 'live' tab, because that tab is only held back against the pressure of the button's spring by the white moulding it sits in. My white moulding looks a bit mouldy! 

[Martin6]

It's really daft, to my embarrassment, I'm still struggling with this darned starter button. I have it off the bike, wired and assembled as per Julie's photos.

As soon as I place the live tab into the switch, even though the button spindle goes through the little hole in the tab nicely, the tab is pushed by the button's spring against the R/Y contact. So, the circuit is always complete. I've tested it on my meter and as soon as the button is pressed once, that's it, the tab remains pushed against the contact.

I think the plastic piece that holds the tab is what is intended to hold the tab away from the contact. It must be worn.

Options:
- get a new one. No longer available.
- Try to modify it?
1. I could put insulating tape on the face that is touching the R/Y contact, with hole in it, so the button pin can still go through and complete the circuit on the contact. Perhaps not a long term solution?
2. Glue a spacer on the bottom of the tab, to keep it away from the contact? Would have to be very thin and it might not be possible to get it into the switch, as it's already very tight.

Any suggestions? 

[Johnny4428]

Hi Martin! You are certainly being tested to the limit there!😡😡. Having done a couple of these fitted new spring and button as well as general cleaning and refurbishment. I’m finding it difficult to visualise what is going on there. I’m quite sure if it’s fitted correctly and the spring is pushing the button out again it should disconnect the circuit. Double check against photos sent with switch gear internals to ensure proper assembly. It can be a little fiddly to put together, but I’m sure you don’t need any glue unless there’s something broken. Sorry! If this isn’t that helpful, but good luck anyway.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

If all else fails https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185407260951

[Johnny4428]

If all else fails https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185407260951

Bit of a cop out Ted! Good shout all the same.😂😂