Some Minor Issues to Sort

[Oddjob]

I got the missus to sit on the back of the bike whilst on the main stand. I measured the gap between the bottom tubes and the floor, 2 pieces of wood screwed together to form a letter H with the brace close to the floor so it clears the exhaust headers. Now she sits on the bike, I push the H underneath and it sits like that no problem. Scrap wood can be used as well. I had some offcuts of 3x2 and found them ideal.

[Laverdaroo]

Didn’t have any off cuts suitable at the time


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[philward]

Interesting to hear outcome with forks, hopefully positive.

As Bryan noted, its quite a big shift in air volume as it changes much more in ratio through the travel when you start with less space above the oil. Effectively it's making a more concentrated ramp up in spring rate from the resulting air chamber being decreased in size.

One of the reasons I favour a dedicated fork oil like Motul is because it can be more optimum in regard to stiction which is prominent in sliding bearings. ATF is a good balance, but very tighly controlled for it's finite friction properties to ensure consistency in the auto transmission  clutch packs, has good anti foam properties too. Dedicated fork oils don't need that friction consideration and generally outperform in that regard. It does make even an old fork perform the best I've found when used.

I wasn't happy with the fork action (picked up all the little undulations) on my 500 and following asking about suggested improvement, Nigel (K-K6) suggested a thinner Motul fully synthetic 2.5w fork oil and there a great marked improvement in normal riding - bearing in mind I'm not a footrest scraper anymore!

[Martin6]

Thanks all. I thought 5W30 would be light enough. It seemed lighter than the ATF I have. I'll give the 2.5 a go if I rule out everything else.

I would appreciate some advice on the top steering bearings. It swings fine, left to right. Just wonder if the top housing in the photo is correct. It has a 6mm recessed section showing below the bearing cap. It looks odd, is that the way it is meant to look? Can't see a photo in the manual.

I'm still working out the safest way to lift the front wheel off the ground!

In the meantime I've checked the carbs again. Two of them were pretty stiff and scoring the slide cylinder. I bit the bullet and worked on the scuffed areas with emery cloth. Required a few attempts, but now they slide reasonably smoothly. Be interesting to see if I've ruined the vacuum. No choice really, the throttle was sticking open. 

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Although I have a bike ramp I use one of these on the ramp.
Other makes & prices are available.

.https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203603502986

[Martin6]

Ted, you're costing me money again! 

I like that solution. Wide enough to give some stability. Ordered.

I did think about carving frame shaped grooves in a 4'x2', but it would still be unstable on my jack.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Another member here posted a picture on an early post of mine so I bought one. Great bit of kit.

The listing photo is a bit misleading as it shows a bike with both wheels off the ground - that looks iffy to me - I strap the rear wheel down whilst on the center stand then use the scissor jack.

[Martin6]

I warmed the bike up and adjusted the air screws. It seems to run best on 1/4 to 3/4 out. 1/4 on the two carbs I had to fettle, 3/4 on the other two. So it seems there is a reduction in air seal, but they rev up fine and drop back to idle swiftly. The idle was stable at 1200rpm,  albeit still with a bit of chain noise.  I think I've got away with it on the carbs.

Front wheel check will be at the weekend, after delivery of my new bike jack. I noticed some muck in the left hand fork oil, when I drained it. I'm wondering if there may just be an accumulation of crud that side, which affects the damping action? Has anyone ever flushed a fork out to clean it, without dismantling it, is that possible?

👍 Martin

[Laverdaroo]

Just take them apart, it's only one bolt at the bottom to undo to get them apart,you've undone everything else so that's all that holds them together. Just make sure that you loosen the bottom bolt when the forks are on the bike with the tops on to stop the internals spinning on the holder on the inside, they should just pull apart then.  It's a dead easyprocess and at least you'll be a
ble to get all the crap out properly.

[Martin6]

Is there enough room to slide the innards out from the bottom, without taking the fork off the yoke?

[Laverdaroo]

Undo that bottom bolt and just pull the lower off the stantion that will beleft in the forks. You willneed to set the air gap on reassembly or the oil amount so it might be easier just to take them out the yolks its far easier. I would.

[Oddjob]

Don't forget to renew the copper washer on the lower socket bolt.

If you remove the forks entirely, loosen off the bottom bolt first, whilst the fork tubes are firmly clamped by the yokes, same for the top nut, loosen off or you'll struggle getting it loose afterwards.

[Martin6]

OK, thanks.

[nobber1]

Re the tramping - Over tightened head stock bearing?

[Martin6]

Thanks for the suggestion. I have checked that. It was over-tightened, which affected low speed turns, but that doesn't seem to be the issue. Unless the bearings are past it. However, now loosened off a touch,  and front end off the ground, the steering moves from side to side without notchiness.

I am very puzzled by this. I even suspected a slight weave and wobble at the front. I re-seated the tyre, then replaced it. The wheel is true and so is the new tyre.

I still have an irregular lumpiness through the bars. Not vibration. It's like I'm constantly running over compacted mud, until I get to 55/60mph. It doesn't seem related to engine revs.