CB550 refurb

[Johnny4428]

Meant to put this pic up too. Don’t think the end of this was located in the right place!




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Bryanj]

You are correct in your assumption, probably time to change the cam chain now

[Johnny4428]

Probably indeed Bryan, I was hoping to avoid splitting the bottom half and haven’t had any experience with the split link chains. Would you recommend one?

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

I don't know what mileage your bike has covered. As the engine is out have you checked the Primary Drive chain for wear, you can get an idea as to it's condition thought the sump hole.

I have to be honest I do not like the idea of a split link on a camchain, presumably you will have to take the barrel off to replace the base gaskets & liner O rings to avoid any chance of an oil leak.

FWIW as you have spoked your own wheels splitting the crank case is pretty straight forwards - its costs that mount of course as you go further into the engine.

[Johnny4428]

Yes I haven’t checked the primary drive chain yet Ted! I was just assuming by the way the engine ran that the lower end of the engine was not needing a lot of maintenance. The clock was reading in the region of 32,000 miles. I’m not daunted by having to split the cases but just thought I was not going down that route if I didn’t have to. So the primary drive chain wear might dictate the next move.

[Bryanj]

At about £50 for the kawasaki one its one of those while you are there jobs(unlike the£110 Honda one!) The expensive bits are the rubber dampers in the primary drive as there are 8 of them

[Johnny4428]

Do you happen to know which compatible chain to order Bryan. Like the idea of paying less than half the price for a similar product!😜

[Seabeowner]

The Kawasaki primary chain is 92057-1011. I've fitted a couple. One has been in for about 5000 miles over the last 9 years. It was £39 then. But the 8 rubber dampers are another £35-£40. Plus the cam chain and the new seals and gaskets to it does mount up. I'd never split the bottom end of an engine until then and it was pretty strait forward with no special tools. A puller is needed to remove the primary shaft, but a long bolt with the correct thread was all that was needed.

[Sesman]

You don’t need a puller for the primary shaft…use the long, rear engine mount bolt as a make shift slide hammer 😁.And leave the alternator rotor on the crank.

[Sesman]

I have a brand new heavy duty cam chain if you are interested.

[Seabeowner]

You don’t need a puller for the primary shaft…use the long, rear engine mount bolt as a make shift slide hammer 😁.And leave the alternator rotor on the crank.

That's what I said.

[Sesman]

Oops. Sorry missed that? Must drink less🫣. Ha, ha, but you didn’t mention the engine mount bolt. Ten jab no cummee back😀

[Johnny4428]

I have a brand new heavy duty cam chain if you are interested.

Thanks very much for helpful comments and yes I will be interested in the cam chain.

[Johnny4428]

The Kawasaki primary chain is 92057-1011. I've fitted a couple. One has been in for about 5000 miles over the last 9 years. It was £39 then. But the 8 rubber dampers are another £35-£40. Plus the cam chain and the new seals and gaskets to it does mount up. I'd never split the bottom end of an engine until then and it was pretty strait forward with no special tools. A puller is needed to remove the primary shaft, but a long bolt with the correct thread was all that was needed.

Thanks for the info, it’s a few years since I did the last one so it’s good to have the memory jogged!

[Bryanj]

You do need to pull the alternator rotor if you want to swap the crank seal