Brake Caliper adjustment bolt

[Athame57]

Is it just me, or is it everyone? When I service my brakes, in this case painting the fixed pad housing and polishing oop the caliper and surrounding bits.
I'll finish by setting the clearence between fixed brake pad and disc, but I can never get it so that the caliper adjustment bolts head fills the counter sunk hole, I have replaced it with the new bolt you see here to no avail. Is this actually normal?
See image, this is how it is set now.

[exvalvesetdabbler]

Need a  tougher spring or the moving pad is a bit sticky. Need to put the feelers guage in and squeeze the brake lever a few times, while you have had it apart, gravity has been up to mischief and fluid had flowed down the pipe and the moving pad had come out a bit.

Regards
Dave

[exvalvesetdabbler]

When I do it I put the feelers gauge in and then squeeze the fixed pad and arm against the disc  by hand and then tighten down the screw until the feeler guage is stuck fast then back off the screw quarter turn.

Regards
Dave

[Athame57]

Need a  tougher spring or the moving pad is a bit sticky.

But where to get this spring, I've trolled the earth to no avail.  That said, after my brake caliper was siezed and I found a friendly non bike mechanic from east of europe who heat treated it and got me back on the road my brakes have come  a long way, whole system renewed or restored basically. Even now I'm waiting for a trio of nuts and bolts to arrive from DSS. I am quite happy with the action of the spring, I've had a good look at things, but not had anything to compare it with either. 

[Athame57]

When I do it I put the feelers gauge in and then squeeze the fixed pad and arm against the disc  by hand and then tighten down the screw until the feeler guage is stuck fast then back off the screw quarter turn.

Regards
Dave

Right, part of tomorrows do list! 

[exvalvesetdabbler]

My front brake is a source of frustration. Have to bust the glaze off the pads once a year to stop them squealing.  When the old ladies drop their shopping bags at the bus stop it's time to clean them up. 

Problem seems worse with modern pad material.  Slathering grease everywhere makes no difference and I still have the nylon ring between the pad and piston.


Regards
Dave

[Athame57]

When the old ladies drop their shopping bags at the bus stop it's time to clean them up. 

In 1982 riding past the Leather Lane Market in EC2 London with brake squeal I had an orange thrown at me! 

[exvalvesetdabbler]

I'll try that outside the chippy, might get a free supper😊👍

[Rayzerman]

For squealing, the old trick is to bevel the leading edge of the pad.

[exvalvesetdabbler]

For squealing, the old trick is to bevel the leading edge of the pad.

And take the glaze off with fine abrasive on a flat surface, followed by a good squirt of brake cleaner.

[Athame57]

For squealing, the old trick is to bevel the leading edge of the pad.

Already done mate! 

[Bryanj]

Just to horify everybody Citroens solution to squealing front brakes was to dip your finger into coppaslip grease and put 3 to 4 finger stripes on each side of both front discs.

The theory was that the copper grease would get into the voids in the pads and not stop the braking force.

I would NOT recommend this on our sustems, Citroen had a very high pressure braking system run from the same system as the infamouse suspension

[Athame57]

Just to horify everybody Citroens solution to squealing front brakes was to dip your finger into coppaslip grease and put 3 to 4 finger stripes on each side of both front discs.

Sacre Bleu!    'Squeal stops, brakes don't!' 

[Bryanj]

Brakes worked just as well as before mate, didnt make sense to me either

[Laverda Dave]

Are you 100% sure the swing arm is moving George. I have taken mine apart before even though it felt free to move but it wasn't until I actually removed the whole thing that I found it was sticking. If the two o-rings are missing from the pivot pin water gets down there (even when you wask the bike) and it results in the pin rusting plus a bit of aluminium to steel corrosion going on results in the pivot becoming sticky.
I would take it apart for piece of mind, clean the pin with a bit of fine emery or wire wool and do the same with the arm where the pivot fits. When you reassemble make 100% the two o-rings are in good condition and sit in the recess. Be warned, Honda OEM o-rings are expensive, do yourself a favour and buy a box of various sized o-rings from eBay, much cheaper and you will always use them.