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Cush drive retaining ring

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Murf:
As it was a rainy day I decided to remove the cush drive retaining ring, removed the Cush drive clean it up and rebuild it ready for the wheel to go back on. 
I drilled out the staking but the retaining ring was very tight and was not going to budge with a tool  that only fitted two of the four holes.
 I then made up a tool to fit the four holes and with the help of a rattle gun it was soon moving and came off.

I have got to finish cleaning everything up yet but I am after some info for when I replace it
 Should it be tightened fully down, Should it be re staked
Thanks

neat street:
Hi Murf, yes it should be re-staked to stop it comming undone, I used an ajustable pin key for an angle grinder which also worked for the head bearing nut. From meemory, the book states a torque setting? I will try and double check later, useful to clean and add a small amount of copper grease to the threads, I did screw back and forth for a while to make sure the ring went on smoothly so as not to `fool you` into thinking it was tighter than you thought.

neat street:
Hi Murf, I had a check in the book, there is no reference to any torque settings, and also does not mension staking but says use thread lock?? on other posts/videos I have seen shows cleaning the threads and re-staking the bearing retainer which is what I have done on mine.... maybe some others maay be able to shed some light on what they do/have done/recomend. 

taysidedragon:
If it's like the bearing retainer on the 400f I restaked mine.

Oddjob:
Never restaked one and never had one come loose. They are designed so that they tighten up with wheel rotation, hence why they are reverse threaded. A drop of thread lock is all that’s required.

I would strongly suggest that you grease the sliding surfaces on the hub and cush drive or it will be junk in a few years. MolyD works well there.

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