stiff clutch

[neat street]

Hi all, the clutch on my 500 is `very stiff`, I have had the clutch appart 5 times and re-assembled and still the same (checked springs and all well in tollerance, all torqued to correct values ect) adjuster works well and smooth. Cable I believe is routed correctly as per an earlier post (not mine :-)) and advised by Nurse Julie. You almost need two hands to opperate the clutch? the 750 I have is nice and easy as a comparison. cable is new (came with the bike) and runs very free. Any help/advise would be appreciated, thank you.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

My 500 has the long pushrod with the adjustment screw in the left side casing if yours is the same have you checked the spiral screw arrangement that has that alloy screw.  You can get a lot of muck & rain in the casing.

[Laverda Dave]

Are you sure the cable isn't frayed somewhere inside?
How is the cable operation when removed from the clutch adjuster, smooth or can you feel any resistance, how old is the cable?
Doesn't the 550 suffer with clutch pushrod problems of is that the 500?
If you want to experiance a stiff clutch as standard try a Laverda Jota, stiff isn't the word :-(.

[Johnwebley]

If the push rod moves freely

The worm drive on the LH side casing is well greased,and moves easily, please check the cable

My 500 has the standard set up  and is very smooth and light,



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[Bryanj]

Most common fault is bad cable or an original one that has been lubed! Lube swells the linings on the inner and inside the outer.
Second most common is the worm scre siezing or ball bearing missing
Third is some idiotic po has fitted stronger springs

[Oddjob]

Or the push rod is broken. It should be one long rod not in 2 or more pieces.

[neat street]

Thank you all very much for your replies.

Ted, the ajustment on the left hand side completly stripped cleaned and greased and works well.

Dave, the cable is new and runs nice so no fraying.

John, the side `screw`/worm drive is perfect and moves like a clock, was stuck before I stripped and cleaned, but now realy nice and smooth (well greased).

Brian, as above, worm drive works well, ball bearing intact,  cable smooth and new, stronger springs?.. maybe, dont know how to check these, but measurements are well in spec from the workshop manual.

Ken, the push rod was broke in two but replaced on rebuild.

Thank you all very much for your help, not sure what next to try
 

[TrickyMicky]

Just a shot in the dark, but, does the handlebar lever move freely. They are prone to collecting dirt and water, plus make sure the nut and bolt acting as the pivot have not been overtightened. Genuine Honda levers have a bush in this pivot point also. A little drop of grease here can help.  Ironically, I have just renewed the clutch cable on my 400, usual procedure every couple of years as they tend to 'cook' over the top of the cylinder head.  I would be tempted to fit yet another new cable, just in case, a lot less hassle than stripping down parts.

[K2-K6]

I'm not so familiar with this mech particularly, but with others have had a wear issue with the helix material the clutch "pressure" lever works within.

With what initially appears insignificant slack between the two, it can really bind to poor effect when subjected to load by not staying true in its bore. They move easily when just that component is checked on it's own, but shft substantially as the cable pulls the component off axis under full clutch load operation.

Its something that helix arrangement are prone to if not complying with designed intentional stability.

There's differential type "Torsen" that makes use of this conflict to restrict and proportion slip by being manufactured to specified ramp angles in promoting this effect under more extreme loading. Not exactly the same as axial/radial unintentional float, but demonstrating how powerful this can be in locking the mechanism when required.

[K2-K6]

One cheap way to test for helix binding is to use a friction "extreme" grease within it to assess in that status.

Automotive CV grease will provide one of the least binding characteristics you can easily get hold of to try it.

[neat street]

One cheap way to test for helix binding is to use a friction "extreme" grease within it to assess in that status.

Automotive CV grease will provide one of the least binding characteristics you can easily get hold of to try it.

Thanks for this ideas K2-K6, also the possibility of the worm drive being the issue.. Grease check first, then try to think of a way to `load` the worm drive to see  if that binds under load??? Its completetly free off load.

[neat street]

TrickyMicky Just a shot in the dark, but, does the handlebar lever move freely. They are prone to collecting dirt and water, plus make sure the nut and bolt acting as the pivot have not been overtightened. Genuine Honda levers have a bush in this pivot point also. A little drop of grease here can help.

Thank you, all has been stripped and cleaned, handle moves freely and has the littlle bush, all shots in the dark welcome :-)

[K2-K6]

To give it load you'll need to reassemble and try it with the full clutch as a test.

It's one of the useful/compromise characteristics of these type mechanism that makes them attractive  .... in some applications.  The differential example given above allows virtually full and free movement under low load, but ramps up considerably when subjected to load across input to output. The designers making clever use of what can be a fault in operation.  The name of that device is made up of TOR-que SEN-sing to illustrate just that.

If your mech responds to change of lubricant, that would suggest either the bore or the helix (or both) have wear that allows that little but powerful shift in geometry to give a much high torque requirement across that device.

[florence]

Do you have the correct number of plates in the clutch basket?

Is the clutch adjusted correctly?

[neat street]

I think I may have found the problem (Thanks K2-K6) and all others for your contributions?? what are your thoughts please and can anyone advise what part (or both) is worn and if anyone has the part/parts to replace please if required? thank you for all your help