stiff clutch

[neat street]

Do you have the correct number of plates in the clutch basket?
Is the clutch adjusted correctly?


 Thanks Florence, yes, correct no of plates and did adjust acording to the manual.

[Bryanj]

At one time Dave Silver had pattern ones but as i remembercthey were not cheap

[neat street]

Thanks Brian, yes I can see some online, but very expensive, and not sure if I have to replace just one part or both? or is it correct and they are `normal` and dont need to be replaced? Although I suspect they are, or at least one of the is out of tollerance? Thank you again for your help.

[K2-K6]

Have you any brass or copper sheet metal  ?  You could make a small cylindrical shim to go around that section and keep it aligned, this to test for concept/correction etc before deciding to commit much cash in buying a replacement.

Also pack it with CV black grease when assembling to try out for effective action.

[neat street]

K2-K6, nothing that thin, but for test purposes, I could use a coke tin?? will try tomorrow if possible,
thank you for the idea

[K2-K6]

K2-K6, nothing that thin, but for test purposes, I could use a coke tin?? will try tomorrow if possible,
thank you for the idea

Yes, should do the job to let you try it.

[neat street]

Hi All, made a bush from 22mm copper pipe and got down to a good size to test, smooth to operate the adjuster free hand but although maybe a very slight improvement, the problem persists :-(
see pics  and home made bush.
Any other ideas or are we stumped?

[K2-K6]

My experience in regard to cable lubricant is likely at odds with some, ordinarily using silicone oil for them to good effect.

It's, essentially, inert with generally used materials in bowden cable installation. Effective in lubricating, precludes water ingress and offers no (that I've experienced) downside.

Worthwhile to evaluate in this case, as slightly puzzling it is.

[Oddjob]

In my experience the cause of most problems on the 500 clutch setup is the cable routing. It must follow the diagram in the PDI instructions. Does yours do so?

Have you checked the operation of the mushroom in the clutch basket as well? Just to ensure it’s moving freely.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

You will have checked the below items I'm sure, just trying to think outside the box.

You have not mentioned the end ball bearing, does it have one?

Is the brass screw adjusted and locked in with the pinch bolt?

Is it a genuine clutch cable, or the correct length if its aftermarket?

[Sesman]

This may sound incredibly stupid, but is it possible to install the clutch system progressively to try and isolate the problem? Eg, lever; lever plus cable; lever plus cable plus scroll mechanism…..and so on and so forth.

[neat street]

Thank you all for your perseverance with this for me, it is very strange... Brian did mension the clutch springs and maybe they are the `heavier` ones (can anyone measure a standard spring wire thickness to check against mine please?? ( I assume this would be the difference between a standard or `heavey duty`?)) I will double check everything again over the weekend.

Thanks again K2-K6 for your advise.

Thanks Ken, will check the cable routing again.. the `mushroom` was free, will investigate again when stripped this weekend to double check.

Thank Ted, will go through your list.. Yes does have the ball bearing inserted. the adjuster is locked with the `horse shoe` and blot, will check the cable again, I had one fitted  and a `new spare` when I brought it, I used the `new spare`(after market) so can check this again for length and compare ect.

Thank you Sesman, trust me, at this stage nothing is stupid :-), After I drain the oil again and strip/check, I will try and find a way of doing things in steps and test each bit if I can.

I would assume that it would not `run in` once the bike has started? At this stage everything is still in `building mode` not had it running for more that a couple of seconds as no exhaust/tank ect fitted (dont have exhaust yet, tank needs to be completly cleaned and paint removed (viniger comming today/Monday) :-) then painted ect, lots more to do, but want to make sure everything is working as it should before investing in one of the more expensive parts, the exhaust. once I know the clutch is OK, I can move on :-)

[Murf]

You say the cable came with the bike, is it the correct cable? Just because it is the same as the one on the bike doesn’t necessarily mean it’s correct, so much stuff gets changed and bodged over the years. Is it a good quality cable. 

Is the angle of action/pull between the clutch actuating leaver and the cable ok, say around 90deg or just a bit more to give the best possible leverage.

[Bryanj]

I remember a bulletin that mentioned a mark on the alloy adjuster that had to be in a certain position on the "clock" as it were, not sure if all the bulletins are readable at the moment

[florence]

I do not want to dismiss any of the excellent advice that is given in this thread and can only offer my own experience.  Regarding heavy duty clutch springs.  I am one of those idiots (thanks Bryan) who after lots of consideration and being fed up with slipping clutch, decided on a belt and braces approach and installed heavy duty springs from EBC, along with new plates and I can tell you that they have not made the clutch feel heavier at all.  It feels very positive and I can sit at traffic lights with the clutch pulled in without problem and I am what one might describe physically as a weakling.

Also, I have a non-standard clutch cable, about a third longer than usual and it is routed  not following any recommendation, just where it seemed sensible to go, which is between the headlamp bracket and the headlamp, then alongside the top rail of the frame on the left side.  Between the clocks felt to restrictive.  Again, no adverse heaviness is discernible.

I am at a loss to advise what is happening on your bike but can say that I don't think the springs will be an issue, in my experience. 

Is the gearbox clutch side cover off and so are you able to see what is happening in the basket when you pull the cable in.  Is the actuator at about 4 o'clock when it engages.  I have seen it happen that the actuating arm is too vertical, say 1 o'clock, meaning it does not have enough useful travel.