The NC30 Thread

[Laverda Dave]

I bought it years ago from Reg Allan (AKA Bill Cosby who sadly passed a few years ago) from his shop in West Ealing when I first built the bike in 1999. Bill's widow sometimes attends the Kempton Park Auto jumble with bits and pieces, I'll ask her if she has any next time I see her and how much they are. Have you tried all the usual Triumph spares people?

[Sesman]

Thanks for the offer, Bryanj, but there’s very little of the T110 remaining as the engine is heavily modified. The only legacy components are the cases (modified) and the dynamo ( Lucas, prince of darkness FADE). Unit crank, Thunder rods, morgo 750, modified Bonny head, 3134 cams, lightened cam gear, electronic ignition, belt drive, 5 speed box……. Should be a right giggle for about 10 mins.🫣🫣

[Bryanj]

With that lot biggest hint is lap the clutch centre onto the gearbox shaft with fine paste or get used to changing woodruff keys! I fitted mine with duplex primary as well

[Laverda Dave]

Well progress on this bike has been painfully slow of late.
The bad points were the YSS shock although advertised for this model did not fit despite the modification. Rick kindly took it back and ordered me a Nitron shock. Nitron have had some issues and I only took delivery of it last Friday. I thought it would be an easy fit but no. The lower shock mount is binding on the linkage pivot when it is torqued up to the factory spec of 45nm. It is binding to the extent where it will not move! If I torque the bolt up to 15nm it's fine but anything more and it binds, badly.
I know the linkage pivot on the NC30 has a needle roller bearing where the drop link fits and also a needle roller on the swingarm link but the shock mount uses a metalastic bush which to my way of thinking is a stupid idea! How is the metalastic bush supposed to allow the shock to move in the mounting?
Does anyone have an experience of this type of set up? Is it normal for the lower shock mount to bind on the metalastic bush and when it is all installed does the metalastic bush move but only under tension?
I checked the length of the link bush and the internal clearance of the shock mounting fork and they are the same except for a couple of thou which would seem about right.
The Haynes manual is as unhelpful as ever!
At least I've got all the paint set back👍

[Bryanj]

If you think about it the lower mounting on the fours is the sameas the outer is tight in the swing arm whilst the inner is trapped by the lower shock bolt in the fork, it works because the angle of movement is minimal so the rubber does not tear BUT from experience of bigger ones the bolt should only be tightened when the suspension is in its "normal" position i.e. not body jacked up or loaded down

[magpie114]

As you know Dave I got a YSS shock. One side of the mount is threaded unlike the standard shock. I tightened the bolt lightly so that the bush was free to move and then torqued the outer nut to specification, acting as a locknut. I’m now wondering if that was the right thing to do.
Alan

[Skoti]

If you think about it the lower mounting on the fours is the sameas the outer is tight in the swing arm whilst the inner is trapped by the lower shock bolt in the fork, it works because the angle of movement is minimal so the rubber does not tear BUT from experience of bigger ones the bolt should only be tightened when the suspension is in its "normal" position i.e. not body jacked up or loaded down

Well said Brian,

that's an error many folk make, I too prefer to have shockers finally tightened when I'm sitting on the bike for the obvious reason you stated above.

   

[Laverda Dave]

Thanks for the advice Bryan.
I have reassembled the linkage and have only hand tightened the lower shock mount at the moment. All the remaining shock linkages have been torqued up to the 45nm as per the manual. I will tighten the lower shock mount when the bike is off the stand and I’ll get someone to sit on the bike whilst I tighten the bolt. As the bolt and nut are shielded by the suspension link making getting a socket on it impossible I have modified a 17mm and 14mm crow’s foot spanner to make them a sliding fit. I’ll use a torque wrench with these to give the required setting.

I made good progress today and everything is now back on the bike ready for the fitting of all the body panels. I balanced the carbs a couple of weeks ago and everything is now running as it should. I have given up trying to fit the LED indicators, relay and idiot light the right hand side glows when the left indicators are working (but not the other way around)!

[Laverda Dave]

More progress photos

[badger_eng]

Handsome looking bike is that. Top job 👍

[Bryanj]

Does it have one indicator dash repeater or two?

[Laverda Dave]

One Bryan. I changed that to LED as well as the relay.

[Bryanj]

Thats the problem, with one idiot bulb one wire connects to each side and pwer goes one side to the other so basically whichever way you want to go you are powering both sides, there is a way of putting diodes into the two idiot light wires but that is above my paygrade! Mr google may help, also there are 2 sorts of led one sort works whichever way its connected the other is polarity sensitive.
Bottom line is easiest fix is normal bulbs, how often do you have them flashing anywat!!

[Laverda Dave]

That's what I went back to Bryan following a lot of head scratching! In London most people don't use indicators anyway, it's all done on perception. On BMW's/Audi's indicators are an optional extra around here!

[Bryanj]

I did hear that BMW, AUDI and MERC were going to save millions by not fitting indicators as their owners dont use them!