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rebuilding carbs

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exvalvesetdabbler:
For the barrel spring that closes the throttle and the torsion spring on the carb link rod, how do other people plate these?

Cleaning/pickling  , anodic stripping or  dunk in acid and prey?
De-brittlement, does any one do this?

And what about the hard steel inserts in the carb sync adjuster screws,

Regards
Dave

exvalvesetdabbler:
Finally finished the zinc plating.
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I have tried to reuse all original components where possible but there were a few screws that had been chewed up and quite rusty.

I was unable to salvage the M5 screws that hold to the top cover onto the carb bodies, so I plated some small head stainless as screws.  I used a Woods nickel strike first and then into the zinc bath  immediately .
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This modern trivalent yellow passivate is not as good as the old hexavalent stuff. Even with the best cleaning between plating and passivation the colour does fade as bit if you rub it hard enough, but then the old stuff did to some extent.

Regards
Dave

exvalvesetdabbler:
Time to start reassembly, first was to rivet the two halves of the 'wheel' that the throttle cable goes around.

I used M3 x 5mm aluminium rivets and an old form tool that I originally made years ago to rivet the brake disc mudguard onto it's bracket.

Assembly riveted together
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Form tool
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I can now start putting the rack back together

Regards
Dave

McCabe-Thiele (Ted):
That plating looks very good.👍👍👍

exvalvesetdabbler:
Had some time this afternoon so I made a start on the rack. I was watering a lot of thirsty agaves in the glasshouse but it got a bit warm. They have waited 5 months for a drink so another day won't make much difference.


First.  Refit the 4 nylon shim washers on each end of the bushes that carry the link rod. Hard to know they are there until they fall out during initial cleaning.  The felt seals were installed next followed by the retainers.  I found it easier to use a nut and bolt with some flat washers to squeeze the retainers back in.
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When assembling the components on the link rod, there are two nylon shim washers that go either side of the 'Wheel'. When you force close the throttle, the wheel needs to move freely until it hits the stop.
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Other than that it's fairly easy to assemble, the torsion spring is a bit fiddly to get it stretched and located on the peg.

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Regards
Dave

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