Engine Painting Disaster - Help!

[Oddjob]

Just remembered Ted. That satin black engine paint was called PJ1

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Just remembered Ted. That satin black engine paint was called PJ1

Wow ,they make quite a few products as well as paint,thanks Ken.

Ceramic Enamel - sounds good stuff, I'm still cleaning the engine unit up, preparation is time consuming, hopefully time well spent.

[Rozabikes Tim]

Just remembered Ted. That satin black engine paint was called PJ1

Didn't they do various oils too? Fork and 2 Stroke etc.?

[Neilw]

Has anyone tried painting a small piece and baking it. Then soaking it in petrol to see how the paint reacts?

Neil, you have access to a Dremel or similar?

I have something similar to a Dremel.

I sprayed an additional 2 coats on the breather and will bake this at the correct temp and test.

[Oddjob]

Bit late then if you’ve already sprayed it. I was going to suggest that you buy some plastic abrasive discs, search for them on the forum, you could then remove the paint only it those areas where the paint is blistered. I would remove a full section so you don’t leave marks left by the new paint sitting lower than the old paint. It’s something those discs excel at. They are also really good at removing casting marks and blemishes.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Bit late then if you’ve already sprayed it. I was going to suggest that you buy some plastic abrasive discs, search for them on the forum, you could then remove the paint only it those areas where the paint is blistered. I would remove a full section so you don’t leave marks left by the new paint sitting lower than the old paint. It’s something those discs excel at. They are also really good at removing casting marks and blemishes.

I can agree with Ken, the plastic abrasive discs are a game changer for cleaning up alluminium based castings & other metals.
It took me a while to get the hang of using them.
These are the type of wheels Ken is talking about, they come in various grades. I use them in pairs, they last a long time as long as you don't use a high speed in your rotary tool. I use mainly 400,600 & 1000 grit.

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/397859407787

[Neilw]

Bit late then if you’ve already sprayed it. I was going to suggest that you buy some plastic abrasive discs, search for them on the forum, you could then remove the paint only it those areas where the paint is blistered. I would remove a full section so you don’t leave marks left by the new paint sitting lower than the old paint. It’s something those discs excel at. They are also really good at removing casting marks and blemishes.

I can agree with Ken, the plastic abrasive discs are a game changer for cleaning up alluminium based castings & other metals.
It took me a while to get the hang of using them.
These are the type of wheels Ken is talking about, they come in various grades. I use them in pairs, they last a long time as long as you don't use a high speed in your rotary tool. I use mainly 400,600 & 1000 grit.

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/397859407787

Good advice, i actually used some 400/800 grit and sanded them down. the areas are quite small and not really noticable onced painted. Thanks for the suggestion.

[TrickyMicky]

Just a random thought, but, about 40 years ago I worked for a short time for a company that reconditioned car gearboxes.  When it came to cleaning the earlier type mini boxes, which used the engine oil, once they had been gutted of all internals we used to have a large tank in a hidden(!) back room which contained a fluid made by Turko Chemicals. I remember it contained phenol(!!!!), and I used to gently lower 4 gearbox cases into the tank whilst holding my breath. After about 4 hours, they were carefully  removed and hosed off with clear water. They looked like new casings, all oil varnish, old gaskets and 'O' rings had disappeared. I nused to get through two pairs of those red industrial rubber gloves per day. I guess modern day 'elf & safety have probably banned these types of cleaners now, but it was good stuff. Even used it to remove a black bin liner that had wrapped round my bike exhaust.  Just wondered if you had any similar transmission companies near you that could use something similar on your engine casings.

[Neilw]

Just a random thought, but, about 40 years ago I worked for a short time for a company that reconditioned car gearboxes.  When it came to cleaning the earlier type mini boxes, which used the engine oil, once they had been gutted of all internals we used to have a large tank in a hidden(!) back room which contained a fluid made by Turko Chemicals. I remember it contained phenol(!!!!), and I used to gently lower 4 gearbox cases into the tank whilst holding my breath. After about 4 hours, they were carefully  removed and hosed off with clear water. They looked like new casings, all oil varnish, old gaskets and 'O' rings had disappeared. I nused to get through two pairs of those red industrial rubber gloves per day. I guess modern day 'elf & safety have probably banned these types of cleaners now, but it was good stuff. Even used it to remove a black bin liner that had wrapped round my bike exhaust.  Just wondered if you had any similar transmission companies near you that could use something similar on your engine casings.

It's a good suggestion, but i'm too far down the road to want to start again. I'm in patch up mode now. I think for my needs  a few coats of VHT over what is there and a bake at the correct temp should sort it, fingers crossed!

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Sounds like a Trichlorethylene Tank, lots of garages had them in the 1960s,
now illegal due to serious  health risks.

[exvalvesetdabbler]

Sounds like a Trichlorethylene Tank, lots of garages had them in the 1960s,
now illegal due to serious  health risks.

Carbon tetrachloride was even worse, even in the labs we had to stop using it and find alternative solvents. Good degreaser though. We kept a bottle for saving up the `slops` which came in handy for cleaning oily things at lunchtime. Chloroform was more enjoyable to use.

Dave


Dave.