SOHC.co.uk Forums > CB750
Rewiring K2 with later high beam switch
UK Pete:
Hi Niel, you have the patience of a saint, i would have smashed the f ing bike up with a hammer by now
Anyway, in part answer to your questions, i would say you have a good chance of success using an epoxy filler of some sort to stop your leak, i have used a 2 pack wood filler to repair a gaping hole in the side cover of a klr engine with great results, what happened is i fell off my KLR600 while trying to off road it and went tumbling down a bank, besides my injuries my bike had taken a beating, worst off all the gear change had gone through the engine casing making a 2'' crack just behind the magneto, as a very temporary bodge i cleaned the casing with thinners and run a small grove up the crack to open it out a bit roughed up the surrounding area cleaned again then filled with the epoxy wood filler which is almost identical to car body filler and reasonably flexible, that was 3 years ago and i use the bike every week it has held up really well and i have not been bothered to do anything more to it, so i recon it is worth you having a go, the JB weld is really good but a good 24 hours to cure, 2 pack epoxy is 20 miutes to cure and much easier to work with so there you have it nothing to loose really
Pete
the-chauffeur:
Hey Pete
I'm sure the expression tortures of the damned was invented just for me. It's unbelievably trying, but it feels soooo close.
I've gone with JB Weld because I'm not in any hurry, and I need whatever covers that area to set - solid. I decided to use the Dremel-thing which has got a kind of extension cable on it to get in and very, very carefully open the edges of the seal. After mixing the JB, I smeared it across the join, initially with a little paintbrush to try and get as good penetration as possible and then went over it with a finger. After getting as much into the gap as I could, I smoothed over the top (carefully) with a little white spirit. If it dries the right colour, it's going to be quite hard to see - except for the fact that there's no visible join.
While sorting that out, I feeler guage-d the side covers and found that two out of the three dowels were holding the side covers off by about 0.15mm, the kind of gaps that would need some fairly heavy duty gaskets to take up the slack. I've shaved down the dowels and checked everything was flat before refitting the side covers. Let's hope that's at least one step in the right direction.
Meantime, any thoughts on the breather hose locations? Something I forgot to mention earlier is that if I've run the bike and then open the oil tank while the oil's hot, it will hiss as the pressure escapes (not unlike removing a radiator cap from a hot engine, but nothing like as spectacular . . . ). I dunno, but that kinda doesn't seem right to me. And knowing that SOHC twins of the same age vent to air, I'm a bit concerned I might have introduced a closed system where there shouldn't be one . . .
UK Pete:
That dont sound right pressure in the oil tank, it could explain the bike having any excuse to leak oil, i will have a look at the f2 and k1 to see how it is set up
Pete
UK Pete:
Neil the bottom pipe goes to the crank case the top is to air, the rocker cover should end up in the air filter, on the f2 via a condensate trap
Pete
K2-K6:
Niel, I haven't got my K2 where I live currently so can't check the exact layout for you.
I'll look at what info I've got to see if anything useful is there.
The oil tank on the bikes I've got have never had any pressure build-up in them even if you open them when running so something odd there. It's fairly conventional to vent from the top of many engines into the air filter to burn off any oil smoke that may be present.
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page
Go to full version