Neutral Light

[kifer]

Just a quick one, took out 750 yesterday neutral light came on permanent, looks to be as bright as normal, when home tried it with engine not running seems to work fine. Working tomorrow so thought I would ask if anyone has any ideas will then check it out on Sunday just hope its not an earth fault. Also have a slight oil leak on oilway plug right hand side where people fit oil pressure gauge not had one out before is it fitted with o ring? Cheers in advance Tom.

[hairygit]

Check the wire that comes from the neutral switch, and follow it as far as you can, if the insulation has rubbed away at any point, and it touches ANYTHING earthed, that will put the neutral light on. Also check the security of the switch body itself, as if it is loose, that can cause the same problem

[mick]

Hi Tom yes there is a o ring on that plug, cheers Mick.

[the-chauffeur]

Had a similar problem with my neutral switch - turned out it had worn to the point where the internal connectors weren't meeting when the bike was put into gear.  As a temporary fix, I changed the o-ring that fits between the switch and the engine body for a slightly thinner one (I think the stock ones are about 3mm; I used a 2.5-2.8mm replacement).  That allowed the ball bearing in the switch to be depressed just far enough to make the connection.  Dunno if they still have any in stock, but I got a new switch from Silver's (and the right size o-ring) and the problem went away.

Yes - there's an o-ring behind the side cap, but be very careful when you're undoing it - they're made of some kind of brittle aluminium, and don't take too kindly to being messed about with.  Find exactly the right size spanner/socket (IIRC a 17mm) and make sure you're square on to the cap before you apply any pressure. 

If it doesn't want to budge, it might be an idea to get the engine warmed up and then have a go.  But seriously, don't go mad - the heads round off real easy, and I've sheared the top off of one of those caps in the past because the cap was stuck. I had to get an engineering shop to remove the body and clean up the thread in the crankcase for me (fortunately the engine was out of the bike at the time . . . ).

[Spitfire]

The neutral light on my F1 went duff and stayed that way so after fitting a new switch and still having problems I put some insulating tape over it, it was not until I rebuilt the bike that I found out that the insulation on the wire to the switch had rubbed off on the underside of the engine, causing a short. It works fine now.

Cheers

Den

[Bitsa (Ralph Wright - RIP)]

Forgot to add if you select a gear and the light just dims normally switch kaput happened with mine bought switch then decided to fit another engine so surplus now
Cheers
Bitsa

[kifer]

Thanks to all, Just got home out of van and into shed [ bit p****d off with little niggles on bike ] disconnected switch neutral light out/ short to earth works ok. Put multimeter on switch to ground seems to work ok through gears. Will take off sprocket cover ,a real fooker of a job on Seeley frame and check lead a bit further tomorrow and let you know progress.
Thanks Bitsa for offer of switch but have a couple on shelf in fact thinking of sorting some bits out and getting shut been collecting for years so 750 stuff poking out of every draw even have a nearly new motad exhaust system hanging from roof.
Been thinking hard this last week or 2 may even sell Seeley have done over 1,000 miles this month on VFR and fancy a GS
riding is what I enjoy most maybe spent to much time in shed.

[kifer]

Again thanks for help,  stuck a bulb between neutral switch and battery pos bulb was still showing faint when gears selected swapped switch all working fine now.

[kifer]

Just like to thank Chauffeur for good advice, with ref to oil plug yes it was very tight with engine cold so took out for run tried with engine hot and it came out easy swapped o ring leak sorted Thanks again.