SOHC.co.uk Forums > CB500/550
Broken tappet
Trigger:
A torque bar will not stop you rounding off nut's and bolt's. It will only stop you over tightening them and shearing them off. When replacing bolt's always apply copper grease, but NOT to internal engine parts.
MIKE550/4:
my only advice with sockets is make sure you buy 6 sided ones,
I borrowed some of them star type ( 12 sided say ) and found they just don't grip.
also impact driver has been a god send
Ewan 500 K1:
--- Quote from: trigger6969 on January 05, 2014, 03:43:16 PM ---A torque bar will not stop you rounding off nut's and bolt's. It will only stop you over tightening them and shearing them off. When replacing bolt's always apply copper grease, but NOT to internal engine parts.
--- End quote ---
....read somwehere that copper grease shouldn't be used where steel bolts are inserted into alloy threads as it increases chem reaction between alloy and steel and thus increases seizability.... some other kind of grase was recommended for these situuations (cant remember what though)... but maybe that was a load of crap ?
matthewmosse:
I think I would use something other than copper grease for engine mounts having had the last ones I worked on sieze up so solid that I had to gas axe them out after a year of riding when I came back to removing a copper slipped bolt. At the trail biking place I did some work at they used a mix of waterproof grease and acf50. Copper grease is good where there is heat and steel on steel but that combo of salt water off the front wheel, alloy, steel and electric from earthing the starter - something in that mix was bad.
Trigger:
I was talking about engine bolts lads. I will start stripping my mates z650b1 engine tomorrow which i built in 1995. I am confident that i will not have any problems getting any casing bolts out seeing i applied copper grease when i built it nearly 19 years ago. I will let you know.
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