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Author Topic: engine stud  (Read 10653 times)

Offline MikeM

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engine stud
« on: May 23, 2014, 09:16:54 AM »
has gone pop

clean break and no way of gripping with anything, must be  2mm recess

So speaking to bryan a drill job again.... what size helicoil for this one  ::)
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Offline matthewmosse

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Re: engine stud
« Reply #1 on: May 23, 2014, 10:06:09 AM »
Whereabouts has this one gone? exhaust? m6 again. I feel your pain, had a few go, expect I'll see a few more soon and I know I have 1 engine where a previous owner has drilled out to m8 and made a mess of it - not looking foreward to fixing 3 of them.
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Got a 500/4 with rust and a sidecar and loadsa bits. nice and original and been round the clock

Offline MikeM

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Re: engine stud
« Reply #2 on: May 23, 2014, 10:17:37 AM »
exhaust stud , where you bolt the exhaut collar on, no 1 cylinder

last bolt i was tightning and it gave up
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Offline matthewmosse

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Re: engine stud
« Reply #3 on: May 23, 2014, 03:42:44 PM »
Typical :(
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Got a 500/4 with rust and a sidecar and loadsa bits. nice and original and been round the clock

Offline Bryanj

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Re: engine stud
« Reply #4 on: May 23, 2014, 07:53:14 PM »
M6 helicoil standard depth mate
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Offline MikeM

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Re: engine stud
« Reply #5 on: May 23, 2014, 08:26:04 PM »
least I have all the correct stuff to fix........

what about swarf going into engine is that going to be likely outcome ? ..... any tips to avoid that.... just done a top end rebuild and don't really want to start pulling the head
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Offline Bitsa (Ralph Wright - RIP)

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Re: engine stud
« Reply #6 on: May 23, 2014, 08:27:10 PM »
Thats as bad as the last cam tower bolt.Do it up and it strips right pain in the butt
Good luck
Bitsa
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Long Live Best Bitter.Status Quo and Sohc Bikes and common sense which you can not teach

Offline Bitsa (Ralph Wright - RIP)

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Re: engine stud
« Reply #7 on: May 23, 2014, 08:29:13 PM »
Make sure the exhaust valve is shut on that cylinder then when repaired air it out
Cheers
Bitsa
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Long Live Best Bitter.Status Quo and Sohc Bikes and common sense which you can not teach

Offline Trigger

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Re: engine stud
« Reply #8 on: May 23, 2014, 08:53:36 PM »
I use milk carton/ container tops. The round ones fit nicely in the port holes. 
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Offline Trigger

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Re: engine stud
« Reply #9 on: May 23, 2014, 08:57:10 PM »
Just emailed you a picture on how to use the tops Mike.
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Offline matthewmosse

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Re: engine stud
« Reply #10 on: May 23, 2014, 08:59:05 PM »
and put a bit of tape around the drillbit at the right depth as drilling right through to the inside is really not reccomended unless you like the engine to get coated in oil.
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Got a 500/4 with rust and a sidecar and loadsa bits. nice and original and been round the clock

Offline MikeM

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Re: engine stud
« Reply #11 on: May 31, 2014, 03:04:24 PM »
well I drilled in with m6 drill, tapped and heli coiled and sure I have done something wrong

drilled in length of bolt that snapped, not gone all the way through ( should I )

tapped it m6 by 1mm tap and then put in helicoil, stud replacement set( bought of ebay ) when you put in stud it pulls out helicoil

any recommendations... this is last part of bike and this is not right I can nearly pull out helicoil with my fingers


just noticed m6 tap just slides into hole :-\

getting close to  splitting this bike  :-\

« Last Edit: May 31, 2014, 03:21:36 PM by MikeM »
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ka-ja

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Re: engine stud
« Reply #12 on: May 31, 2014, 04:07:11 PM »
Hi,
    Is the tap a 6mm tap or a 6mm helicoil tap?
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Offline Bryanj

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Re: engine stud
« Reply #13 on: May 31, 2014, 04:30:20 PM »
If the helicoil pulls out you can search keensert or timesert which have a bigger outside diameter
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Offline Trigger

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Re: engine stud
« Reply #14 on: May 31, 2014, 05:31:37 PM »
O dear Mike, there is only 2 ways now. Go with a insert as Bryan has mentioned or if you know a good aluminum wielder that can do the job.   
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